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Beyer 1 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Bryan about to begin.

Description 

This is a great arete climb on some good rock! If you start from the corner and step around the arete, it will put you in a good position to clip the bolt that is far off the deck.

Location 

This is 50 yards left of Beginner's Luck. It is identified by the prominent arete.

Protection 

Quickdraws.

Note, there are only bolts, which are too tight to the wall, without rap rings or chains at the top.


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The pink one is Beyer 1.
The pink one is Beyer 1.

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By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Mar 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

BEWARE!!! As of 3-13 there are NO rap anchors at the top of this climb!!!!

Only the bolts remain - no chains or rings. The bolts are too tight to wall to sling.

Going to try to get someone to help.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 13, 2013

So someone chopped the ASCA hangers and bolts I put in there to replace the tat and slung boulder? Quite lame! I would like any further information about this if anyone has it! This has to of happened in the last 3-4 months. The rap bolts/rings are clearly stamped ASCA if anyone happens to see them.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 13, 2013

If anyone happens to disagree with my replacing bad anchors (and in this case at the top of a bolted sport route) please speak to me and we can discuss. It seems sad that someone is defacing publicly funded hardware and stealing.
By garrettem
Mar 13, 2013

Pretty lame indeed to steal anchors. Hope this doesn't become a continued problem!
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Jun 2, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hey Jesse, did you find my locking biner at the top bolt??? was the first one I ever bought.
By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Jun 3, 2013

Haven't gone out there and probably won't as replacing anything may just result in continued chopping. I would recommend doing a route on the left, and as you rap from the anchors, swing over and grab your gear. Most likely this is how the choppers approached their task....