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Bewitched (direct) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 10/17/2010 Chad Ellars, Josh Gold
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Oct 18, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Bewitched Direct.

Description 

A fun bit of climbing on sweet jugs and nubbins, with a scary mantel move over a big undercut in the pillar. Start off climbing over a small bulge with good holds, moving up to a dirty, small ledge. Beware of your footing here. Continue directly upwards on chunks of varying sizes until you get to the roof. The bolt for this move is easily within reach on the right side. Crux it, then finish out the last 20' to the anchors.

Beware of loose nubbins, and especially dirt on the small ledge about 30' up. I nearly lost my footing climbing past this. Needs some aggressive cleaning.

Location 

Farthest left route on the wall. Stays left of original Bewitched bolt line. Rappel from rap rings.

Protection 

11 bolts


Photos of Bewitched (direct) Slideshow Add Photo
Bewitched overview. The lower part of the route is...
Bewitched overview. The lower part of the route is...

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By Billcoe
Oct 18, 2010

Nice Nate! You bagged the 2nd ascent. The 2 guys Ref above: you said: "didn't get the guys' names" were Chad Ellars and Josh Gold who put that up. Chad has a couple of pretty good pictures of you leading it here: cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...

Stokeage!!!!