Beverly's Tower 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Gerry Czamanske and Warren Harding 1959, FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, May 1973 |
| Submitted By: | Nate Weitzel on Oct 9, 2006 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This pitch provides a moderate approach pitch to the classic routes, Butterfingers, Butterballs, and Wheat Thin. Fun pitch that has some good stemming through a dihedral and reasonable protection. Continue above to bolts on ledge that serves as the start for the upper routes.
Location Locate Meatgrider(large crack in dihedral)and Cookie Monster( 5.13a bolted route up overhanging arete) after making the approach. From here walk around to the right of the cliff traversing along a small sloping path to gain the start of this one. You will be above a 30 foot section of cliff band at this point.
Protection Standard Rack. Small Cams useful at the start, up to hand size for the top.
| Comments on Beverly's Tower |
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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 10, 2007
| May not be a good line to push your limit on. Tricky, thin (and bomber once you get it right) gear from awkward stances on the bottom third. There was a fatal fall from this section a while back. |
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a PG13
| I've heard that the fatal fall on this route was from a leader who didn't have any pro yet, and the belayer didn't make an anchor on the belay ledge, so they both took a 30 foot plunge onto jagged boulders.
So -- set up an anchor on the ledge! It takes a couple minutes, but it's worth it. |
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 11, 2010
| pretty solid .10a and in your face right off the deck lead to a good rest then some fun stems and a cool roof with several options to the top. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2011
| I thought this pitch was really good! And a great warmup for the wall. The gear is also not bad at all. Sure you have to climb above it a little but with a double rack and some offset nuts you can sew it up. Tough to set the TR off the anchors without drag over that edge though... maybe a #3 or #4 camalot would help with that? And per the other comments, it is fast and simple to set up a quick anchor for the belay. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012
| FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, 5/1973 |
By old5ten
From: Berkeley, CA
Feb 14, 2013
| just to keep the rumor mill in check: the climber who died was stephen ross. he had one piece in and it pulled. the belayer was 'fine' and stephen would most likely have lived if he had worn a helmet, he died of head trauma, but was alive after the fall...
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