Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Solar Slab - Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beulah's Book 
Certain Air 
Corona 
Dubious Flirtations 
Frieda's Flake 
Horndog 
Johnny Vegas 
Sandstone Overcast 
Solar Flare 
Solar Slab Gully 

Beulah's Book 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Dave Anderson, 1979
Page Views: 8,437
Submitted By: Matt Conrad on Oct 8, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (106)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Beulah's Book

Description 

This is a great route with varied climbing. Approach as for Solar Slab Gully, but head left and along a ledge system before reaching the base of the gully. Squeeze past a couple of trees to the base of the first pitch.

P1- (5.6) Go up a short dihedral and step left at a chockstone. Continue up past a bolt and up the face to a nice belay ledge below the chimney. It also looked possible to step into an easy chimney shortly after the bolt which leads to the same belay ledge.

P2- Enter the obvious chimney and climb up past a bolt (5.9). Exit the chimney, and head up the great dihedral above (5.9). Step left at the top to a two bolt belay.

P3- Climb up and right across the slab above (5.5 no pro) and continue up through intermittent cracks to the large terrace below Solar Slab. This pitch was a full 60m.

Either descend Solar Slab Gully from here or finish the day on Solar Slab.


Protection 

Take pro to 4".



Photos of Beulah's Book Slideshow Add Photo
Jonny at the bomb bay
Jonny at the bomb bay
crux section on second pitch
crux section on second pitch
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation, landscape format.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation, landscape format.
The Arete Variation on Pitch 2.
The Arete Variation on Pitch 2.
5.9 lieback ("the book") - could have used a second set of 1" cams (as recommended), but found a horn to tie off on the face
5.9 lieback ("the book") - could have used a secon...
Crux lieback on Pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Crux lieback on Pitch 2
Right side in, or right side out?  Pondering the OW/chimney, pitch 2.  Photo by Brian Cabe.
Right side in, or right side out? Pondering the O...
Beulah's Book bomb bay crux
BETA PHOTO: Beulah's Book bomb bay crux
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation.
Top of p2.  Spectactular
Top of p2. Spectactular
Close up of Joel Bruhn on the P2 dihedral.
Close up of Joel Bruhn on the P2 dihedral.
Solar Slab Wall
BETA PHOTO: Solar Slab Wall
arete variation on P2
BETA PHOTO: arete variation on P2
Jonny on Beulah's Book p2 bolted arete variation. I've rejoined the usual route, above the bomb bay, on the upper lieback section. Photo by Brett Barrett.
Jonny on Beulah's Book p2 bolted arete variation. ...
looking back toward civilization
looking back toward civilization
Kampe working the wide moves
Kampe working the wide moves
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation, second bolt.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 variation, second bolt.
Scrambling up the blocky chimney, pitch 1.  Photo by Brian Cabe.
Scrambling up the blocky chimney, pitch 1. Photo ...
Joel Bruhn on the P2 dihedral.
Joel Bruhn on the P2 dihedral.
from Johnny Vegas
from Johnny Vegas
Kampe working up first pitch
Kampe working up first pitch
climber at the top of the 2nd pitch - taken from johnny vegas
climber at the top of the 2nd pitch - taken from j...
following up the $$$ pitch.
following up the $$$ pitch.
Comments on Beulah's Book Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2014
By John Peterson
Mar 8, 2004

My favorite Solar Slab start. The 5.9 section is short and well protected - sort of a mini-Epinphrine. The layback is really sweet too. It's really just a 1 pitch climb though - nothing of note on the 1st or 3rd pitches.

John

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 29, 2004

One #4 Camalot (or equivalent) provides additional reassurance while pulling through the awkward crux on the second pitch.

By Stephen Langley
Apr 3, 2005

Try the arete variuation to the second pitch. It goes out to the left arete (bolted) and returns to the crack above the chimney crux move then takes the standard line up the lie back. It's about 5.9 with some bolts, a 2" cam, two slings on horns

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Apr 4, 2005

Expanding on the previous comment-- there is a mostly independent variation immediately to the left of the standard route. Begin in a small dihedral just to the left of the big corner. A few feet below the roof, step to the right to reach easy face climbing in the vicinity of the bolt on the standard route. From here, go straight up, then follow the arete for pitch 2. I don't know any FA details, but I refer to this route as "Beulah's Pamphlet" because it is smaller than the book...

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 20, 2006

Indeed the bomb bay crux section on p2 protects well with an old style #4 Camalot. I found the new style C4 Camalot #4 to be a little on the small side and wished I had brought my C4 #5 instead.

By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Oct 10, 2006

This is a great route. The second pitch is long and classic. We climbed this to get to solar slab. The combination makes for a very memorable climb.

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a great route. If you liked Epinephrine - or you're thinking of doing Epinephrine - you should definitely try this route. It's very fun, and is easier than it looks.

We did this route as a start to Sunflower and thought the linkup was great fun.

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Jan 31, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There's a bolt just as you start the third pitch, and, although pro is not easy and obvious, we got in a few good pieces on this section and thought it pretty decent for the level of difficulty.

By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2009

The 2nd pitch is fantastic with amazing views under your feet from the bomber jugs at the top of the pitch. Don't wuss out and take the bolted face climb variation - climb the natural line up the chimney. Its spectacular and not that hard.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a very good route. I would say that the 2nd pitch might be one of the best 5.9 pitches in the park. A new style #4 Camalot does protect the chimney moves quite well if seated correctly. Use runners, duh, or have rope drag.

By K-Tanz
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

I was expecting anchors at the top of pitch one but the anchors which are there appear to be a bit out of the way. Belayed off of a couple giant slung blocks at the base of the arete utilizing the tag line.

The arete variation was safe and quite fun I thought! The dihedral is extremely intimidating but protects very well and really is 5.9. There are face holds which you can utilize and I even got a few no hands rests. You only need to lieback a few moves if you're not comfortable with it. A #4 Camalot protects the top of the lieback. Absolutely fantastic pitch and one I would go back for!

The third pitch is very difficult to protect but the climbing is easy. Be ready to slot some horizontal nuts down low 'cause it is basically all that is there. It protects much easier up top. Bring lots of slings to avoid horrendous rope drag. Climb past the first set of anchors up another 50 feet to a comfortable bolted belay atop the route.