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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Between the Cracks 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Mar 6, 2009
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Description 

I have been told by people in the know, that this line, unbelievable as it may be, apparently has never been led. I do know of at least two parties however who have toproped the line, and I presume there might be more. This route begins 15' L of Knight's Move at a seam splitting an overhang 10' above the trail. A #6 Camalot in the horizontal crack/slot to the L protects the initial crux pulling over the overhang onto the face. Once established on the face, look for a good nut placement in the seam, and continue up the crack and face with moderate climbing and adequate gear to a fun delicate finish at the choss band just below KM’s p2 V-slot. The PG13 comes from the crux start, the big cam should keep you off the ground, but it would be a potentially awkward swinging fall into a dihedral. Once on the face there is plenty of gear when you need it.

An anchor can be set up in the crack at the start of p2 of KM to bring the second up, or easier, just place a TR directional here and traverse 30’ R to the anchor atop Chockstone and descend to the ground to belay. Both of the first ascentionists led the pitch placing gear.


Location 

The route is located at the very top of the West Ridge, ~15’ to the L of Knight’s Move, locate an obvious seam through a roof 10’ off the ground which opens to a small crack paralleling p1 of Knight’s Move and terminating 60’ up at the base of Knight’s Move’s p2 V-slot.


Protection 

Gear: SR and a 5-6” cam or big bro for the start.



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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 6, 2009

Wayne, I believe there already is a route named "Road to Nowhere", although without the question mark. It's on Hawk Eagle Ridge next to D.O.A. and Cinch Crack. Peace and f-nes. Steve S.

By Scott Bennett
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

Fun route, good find guys. The climbing up near the top, just below the KM dihedral, was surpringly good.

If you didn't happen to bring the #6 battle-axe up (I can't imagine why not...) you can get a sheisty-looking small cam (kinda flared) and a decent RP in the little slot below the roof. Still pretty heads up, seems like a fall here would suck either way, even if you had the big cam.

-Scott