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The South Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry 
Bad Boys Bolt 
Beer for Breakfast 
Between Nothingness and Eternity 
Birdland 
Black Market 
Blackstreak 
Dirty Love 
Fun Flake 
Funkativity 
Go Spuds Go 
Good Girls Don't 
Grey Rat Rocksicle 
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) 
Shadow Dance 
Slab Happy 
Sugar Mountain 
Two Minds Meet 
Wigs on Fire 
Unsorted Routes:

Between Nothingness and Eternity 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, 1989
Page Views: 1,140
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jan 27, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is a really good slab with quite a bit of variety, and it's very well-protected! The crux comes right away at the steepest part with a couple super thin, hard cranks, high steps and thumb mantles. When the angle kicks back, the finger holds seem to disappear and it is .11/.10 friction action. The upper section is 5.4ish terrain.

#1 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:

  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)


Location 

This is on the South Slabs, Lower Tier and off the left side of the mini-ledge. It is the right side water streaks... and the leftmost bolted route.


Protection 

Bolts...I would recommend running up the ramp to set up the anchor first (perhaps there is a bolted anchor).

Per Mojo Stylee: "there's no fixed pro past the 3rd bolt (if there still is a third bolt)."



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