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Between a Rock and a Hard Place 
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Darko Sarenac on Aug 31, 2007
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Description 

A bit loose getting to the first crux at the fourth bolt (10c). The climbing then improves as you climb a bulge pass the last three closely spaced bolts (it is possible to clip two of them of a stance).


Location 

About 20 feet to the left of portent.


Protection 

11 bolts to chains.



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By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Feb 4, 2013

This was a surprisingly fun climb. Definitely not as sustained as the Verdict but possibly a bit more technical? Plus there is a nice rest where you can totally recover before pulling the 11a crux at the top. Very well protected by bolts except for a 15 foot gap between the second and third bolt on easy (5.6/7) terrain that can be protected with a bomber yellow #2 BD. Although the climbing is easy here, I recommended bringing the cam because the rock is a bit loose (only place on the route that I found suspect).