|Altered States Gully
This route branches off left from the middle of the second pitch of Betty's Altered Elbow.
Pitch #1: Same as Betty's Altered Elbow. 5.8, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue up Betty's Altered Elbow's Pitch #2 and rather than climbing directly up and toward the arete on the right, traverse past bolts to the left up very interesting face/friction moves to the bolt belay under a roof. This is good climbing and if cheating, the climbing grade is about equal with its neighbor, but perhaps better rock?? 5.9, 40m.
Pitch #3: Surmount the roof with hard free climbing or grab the silver jug handle. Then veer back right up an easier long slab section to the very top of Betty's Altered Elbow. 5.9, A0 or 5.12
Rappel Betty's Altered Elbow to the base via 4-5 rappels with one 70m rope. 5.9 A0 or 5.12, 4 pitches. As for Betty's Altered Elbow, this was established on lead.
12 QDs and 3-4 small cams should be adequate
|By James Garrett|
Jul 17, 2005
Actually, if done free, it would eliminate the A0 rating, but I didn't know how to correct the entry.
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 18, 2005
James, you contribute a lot, both to this site and to the climbing community at large. Why don't you register?
Oct 24, 2009
Climbed the enjoyable third pitch up to the roof but then had to bail because of weather. I didn't pull anything off, seems pretty clean. Nice edges and friction. Maybe a little soft for 5.9, but spicy in a couple places, like the traverse between the last two bolts. Will have to come back and tackle the roof at some point in time.