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Altered States Gully
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Discrete Feat T 
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Betty's Altered Elbow 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 470', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: James Garrett and Deborah Witte, May 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,570
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 1, 2003

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Let's just say the views from the top don't suck. ...

Description 

Located on the south facing arete with the start just 3m to the left of the route Altered States.

Pitch #1: Climb the arete which elbows to the right following the bolts passing the original belay and belay at a newer two-bolt belay about 3m higher where it is easier and more comfortable to belay. 5.8, 35m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the steepening face past an overhang and go right staying on the "arete" more or less. Pass a piton and a couple more bolts continuing to a sloping ledge with a tree and three-bolt belay. 5.8, 32m.

Pitch #3: Slabby and smooth moves manteling chicken heads to more chicken heads to another two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m

Pitch #4: Stay right on the edge. Where the bolts are more run out, be safe going left and up or be bold going straight up to the next bolt...(a nice option for two ways to climb this final and interesting pitch) The rock is a bit gritty here, but glue in 3/8" x 4.5" SS Hilti bolts protect this with beefy hardware! Cool exposure! Continue to the top of the crag with a two bolt belay and great views. 5.9. 30m.

Some obvious linking of pitches is a nice option.

Rappel the route or continue higher and climb the slab to the East. 70m ropes needed or two ropes.

Protection 

QD's should be adequate, but a few small cams can be placed here and there.


Photos of Betty's Altered Elbow Slideshow Add Photo
Final moves to the top.
Final moves to the top.
Looking down the third pitch.
Looking down the third pitch.
"S-Ben," GRK and Katherine getting it do...
"S-Ben," GRK and Katherine getting it do...
Pitch 2 depths.
Pitch 2 depths.
A pic of the start, to help you find it. The route...
BETA PHOTO: A pic of the start, to help you find it. The route...
Tim leading pitch 3
Tim leading pitch 3
The awesome 2nd pitch (best pitch on the route, im...
The awesome 2nd pitch (best pitch on the route, im...
Kai contemplating his runout on the second pitch.
Kai contemplating his runout on the second pitch.

Comments on Betty's Altered Elbow Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 14, 2014
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Checked out this route 2 weeks ago and found it to be a pretty enjoyable climb. A little bit of loose rock on pitch 1 & 2 and kind of a questionable belay anchor on top of pitch 2 or I would have given it more stars. Linking pitch 3 & 4 was straightforward and no rope drag. Thanks for all the new routes, been really enjoying doing a new route every week.
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Hi James, the loose rock is quite minimal but still present. I had left my pack right at the base of the climb and after climbing and rapping above it was mostly covered up by the rock we had sent down. In particular between the first two bolts you pass a small roof, a few loose chunks in that area. Maybe I am just not used to newer routes and maybe I nead to tread lighter. The bolts are all bomber as you mentioned. I was refering to the detached? block that the bolts are placed in at the second belay, not the rap anchor. While rapping the route I was pretty spooked by this anchor and unclipped from it while my partner rapped off of it. I am probably just paranoid. I am sure that block isn't going anywhere soon. Thanks again, I have always enjoyed your routes over the years.
By Xover
Aug 26, 2006

Did this route today and like it, have enjoyed many of your routes over the years JG; will be honored to meet you and shake your hand hopefully someday soon.
This route offers one of the only, if not the only, moderate, multi pitch, sport routes in LCC that I can think of.
Definitely 9/9+ with everything there; placed a green C3 on pitch 1 and a yellow C3 on pitch 3 (which seems to be the crux pitch).
Views on the top of this thing are raaaahaaad!!!!!!
Only qualm I have is with the station 2 anchors (same as guy above); that "detached" block makes me pee in my panties; seems like you could've moved them 3-5' to the climbers right in the solid face just below the first bolt of pitch 3.
Route is truly cleaning up and the texture of pitch 4 is downright "schtickeee".

On a side note, what is the route that branches to climber's left from this route about 2/3's the way up pitch 2 with red hangers and climbs over the vertical wall at its top?? Name?? Rating??
By tenesmus
Sep 23, 2006

James moved that second belay today. I can see how you'd want that. Its super good now. The whole route is super good. Like Xover said, the only .9 sport multipitch around here. That's a quality addition to a fantastic area. Can't believe no more people are up there.
By chrisnsmith
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 27, 2007

I did this route today with my buddy JP. I led the first pitch and he led the last three. What a great route. Rock is still pretty chossy. The crux for me was the move after the basketball-sized chickenhead on the third pitch. We trundled a sizable rock off the bottom of the third pitch (it was an accident waiting to happen.) Thanks for the great route, James. I definitely plan on coming back to it.
By bsmoot
Sep 28, 2007

This is my favorite route in the Altered States Gully...all right James!!
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Apr 24, 2008

A really fun route with some cool features. Definitely worth the hike and a great route to take that "new to climbing" partner. The giant chickenheads up high are the largest I've seen in LCC. Bolted intelligently.

Thanks James,

TDA
By Jim D
Oct 24, 2010

Great route. I wouldn't quite call it a sport route, as I expect true sport routes to have a bolt every 6-10 feet, but it is adequately protected. A few TCUs and a #1 camalot can be placed, but you're usually within 6-8 feet of a bolt by the time you can place any of that.

I can't believe that line wasn't plucked earlier than it was.

The next person to go up there should take a handsaw and take out a couple of the small bushes that ropes catch on while rapping down.
By mountainsense
May 24, 2011

A fine outing, James! S
By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

I love this route! I climbed it twice this week. Each pitch has a distinctive character, the scenery is great, and the rock quality is excellent. We found no significant loose rock on the route, and all the hardware was in good shape. My suggestion: place just one more bolt just below the first anchor. (OK, I'm a Nervous Nellie, but a fall just before the belay would be very nasty.)
Thanks for this terrific route, James.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 14, 2013

Heads up on the rap from top of p2's 3 bolt anchor - our 60m rope with stretch barely makes it. P1 rap into the corner with 60 is fine. Wondering if we did the 2nd pitch right as it was not near the arete as the description here states.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I don't have a lot of slab experience (hardest I've led is Crescent Crack, final link) and this felt totally reasonable to me. There are a few runout sections, but not nearly as bad as other slab routes in LCC. I did place 3 cams (total) on the route, but they weren't absolutely necessary (yellow TCU, blue and yellow X4s). I really enjoyed both the positioning and the movement on this route. +1 for Stan's comment re: 60 meter ropes and the rap from the top to the bottom of the 2nd pitch. I had to hang just above the ends of my rope, clip my pas into the anchor then lower off the ends while holding onto the chains. Not terrible, just pay attention.
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Jun 14, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed on 6/14/14. Rapping from top of P2 to top of P1, 60 m was not long enough. Very dangerous. 70m required.