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 ADVANCED
West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Fright T 
Barney TR 
Bedrock T 
Betty T 
Blankety Blank T 
Cary Granite T 
Dino T 
Fred T 
Fright Night T 
Great Gazoo, The T 
Human Fright T 
Mr. Slate T 
Quarry, The T 
Switchbacks T 
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 
Twinkletoes T 

Betty 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Yvonne Gaines, July 1994
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Betty (5.9), Tahquitz Rock

Description 

Climb Switchbacks, Direct Start to it's bolt and continue up to the horizontal crack where that route cuts sharply left. Move up and right slightly and clip a second bolt just left of a shallow left-facing corner and make funky balance moves (crux) to gain the top of a giant flake. Rap off from two bolts with rings or continue straight up via The Quarry or by cutting right slightly to the chains on Blankety Blank.

Location 

Center of Flintstone Slab, about 50' right of Fred.

Protection 

2 bolts, gear to 1.5", 2 bolt anchor/rap


Photos of Betty Slideshow Add Photo
Craig just past the crux of Betty (5.9), Tahquitz ...
Craig just past the crux of Betty (5.9), Tahquitz ...
Closeup of anchor bolt on Betty (5.9), Tahquitz Ro...
Closeup of anchor bolt on Betty (5.9), Tahquitz Ro...

Comments on Betty Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The two bolts adequately protect this climb. I brought along a 1" piece, but you would place it no more than 3' below the second bolt, which is an easy clip above. Good fun with a sporty start.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can also fit a purple mastercam in at the start. The flake below the bolt will easily take a range of hand sized gear.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Jul 15, 2014

If you can do this without using your knee... its 5.11
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 18, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Pretty radical move for 5.9, but I think it's a fair rating. No knee required for me; plenty awkward though.
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