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The Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

Betterman 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013

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Description 

This may be an even better variation than Castle Corner, at least it seemed that way to me.

P1 Climb the first pitch of Castle Corner.

P2 5.10c Climb the crack that heads straight up the right wall of the corner.

P3 5.10b Follow the right hand of two possible cracks on up the right wall of the dihedral to the top.


Location 

Same the start as for Castle Corner.


Protection 

Gear to 3".



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