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Dam - Back Side
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"Daneish" S 
All That Glitters is Gold (AKA For A Snickers) S 
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Wild Rib S 

Better Than Pool and Pie 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,379
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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ME ON THE SUMMIT. GORGEOUS VIEW OF THE LAKE FROM H...

Description 

Better Than Pool and Pie ascends a fairly low angle slab with big holds just left of the dam. To reach it, take a right after walking under the chockstone. The route is a few hundred feet down the trail, and is the most obvious, least runout, and easiest looking line of bolts.

The best part of the route is topping out and looking down at the lake. This is a beautiful spot, and a great safe moderate climb.

Protection 

Draws. Rap chains at the top.


Photos of Better Than Pool and Pie Slideshow Add Photo
Dillon enjoying the laid back climb
Dillon enjoying the laid back climb
Gary at the top of "Better Than Pool and Pie", his first on-sight lead.  The obvious right most formation rising up out of the trees on the horizon is the "Photographer's Peak" area.
Gary at the top of "Better Than Pool and Pie", his...
Better than Pool and Pie
Better than Pool and Pie
Shauna shows the world why climbers enjoy JUGS...
Shauna shows the world why climbers enjoy JUGS...
Troy Schmidt setting the TR, July,2002
Troy Schmidt setting the TR, July,2002
taken on 8/12/05
taken on 8/12/05
Alternative 5.7 to the right of Better Than Pools and Pie.
Alternative 5.7 to the right of Better Than Pools ...
Wonderful easy climb you can do in sneakers.  Photo by Erin.
BETA PHOTO: Wonderful easy climb you can do in sneakers. Phot...
Pat Geoghegan at summit of "Better Pool than Pie"
Pat Geoghegan at summit of "Better Pool than Pie"
View from summit of "Better Pool than Pie" of Sylvan Lake.  Aquarium  Rock in distance.
View from summit of "Better Pool than Pie" of Sylv...
Mike Madsen climbs Better Than Pool and Pie. Jason Dehur belays <br />
Mike Madsen climbs Better Than Pool and Pie. Jason...

Comments on Better Than Pool and Pie Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 30, 2003

This a a good climb to take first time climbers up. It is fun and very easy to get to
By Dakota Kid
From: Rochester Hills, MI
Jul 14, 2006
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

Concur with AC -- this was my first climb outside of a gym. No fear on this one.
By Peter Arndt
Jul 3, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Long and very easy climb. Nice view of lake from summit. 60 meter rope will more than get you down. 50 meter probably as well.
By Peter Arndt
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Just climbed this route last week and I guess my 60 meter rope is WAY longer than 60 meters as Terra Firma was gained easily. (not to get into a pissing match here)
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 8, 2007
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Sixty meter rope definitely hits the deck. The main task is to keep it dry by throwing to your right away from the small drainage from the lake that occurs inside the rock cleft to the right as you face the climb. There's also a 5.7 route that angles towards the rock cleft and then back left just to the right of Pools (see picture submitted by me above). Don't know the route's name. There are 4 bolts (old buttons) for pro. Obviously, you don't want to fall on them. The same anchor is used on both climbs and the safe way to do this route is on top rope, but if you do come off you'll take a nasty pendulum.
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 27, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Maybe I'm a wimp, but the face at the top doesn't appear to be bolted (couldn't find one) providing for at least a 30' runout. Sure, the climbing is easy, but who wants to chance a 60' fall even if it's highly unlikely. I hooked a horn for a little extra pro, but I didn't have any stoppers or cams with me to throw in the crack... so if you're wimpy like me, take up some cams and/or a little extra webbing (I used a shoulder length runner). If you don't want to risk the face, you can cut left behind the flake to an easy free-soloable chimney.

Regarding the rating, in my opinion there is a 5.6 move 1/3 of the way up so the climb should really be rated on that and I agree with the original rating. The rest of it is 5.4 and the top is probably 5.3. Also, the second bolt is a ground fall (if you fall before you get there), fwiw.

Of course, your mileage may vary :)

Erik
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The most difficult part of this route is trying to decide which hold to use... there are so many of them!
By BRIAN S. ANDERSON
Jul 5, 2009

I climbed this route yesterday and loved every second of it. Climbing is new to me and this was my first route ever. The description is perfect and it is a fairly easy to moderate route. It was a route that was really very comfortable and great for a beginner to start with and get their "feet wet in the sport of rock climbing." I encourage beginners to seek out this route and really concentrate on getting to know the "foot work" in climbing. Please, if you do not trust yourself on your own with climbing, seek training with Sylvan Rocks Climbing or a trusted professional climber. Climbing is an adventure, but it is also very dangerous. REMEMBER: YOUR LIFE DEPENDS ON YOUR SAFETY. Have a great climb.....
By Ayescotty9
Jun 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

My 8 year old climbed this yesterday. It was the first outdoor route she ever "topped out," while overcoming her fear of heights. A great confidence booster for my kiddo! Probably be a great intro to outdoor climber for anyone.

As said earlier, the 5.7ish route to the right can be top-roped to the right of this one for a new climber wanting a bit more spice.

Enjoy this fun and easy to access climb, and don't forget to catch the breeze off the lake once you've topped it out!
By Joel Leusink
From: Hull, IA
May 30, 2012

Great little climb. We just did this with some friends and their kids last week. This is a great place to start leading, or just bring newbies. There are 2 well placed bolts with chains on top for an easy rappel. This is an unusually well protected route for the Black Hills.
By Mark Orsag
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Every time that I was out up there this last summer, I saw non-locals (I'm assuming)) having epics of one kind or another on this. Bring gear for it... there are good placements above the last bolt.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Sep 4, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Started out on this climb in tennis shoes on 8/29/14 to get the kinks out after driving for 12 hrs. from Wisconsin. Wasn't there 4 bolts on this climb in the past? There's only three now and the first two appear to be new. Anyway, if you fall above the first black bolt before clipping the second black bolt you're going to hit the deck after bouncing off the large bulge near the bottom of the climb. Just so you know it's not the safe choice it was in the past for a beginning leader.
By Ron Yahne
Sep 6, 2014

There are still 4 bolts on this route,first 3 are new BHCC bolts then 1 newer 3/8 wedge bolt.