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Better Than Better Than Love
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Armed Forces S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Celestial Pile T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Devil May Care T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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God's Kingdom on Earth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heaven and Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hellbound S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pious Polecats S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 877 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This has good clean rock and occasional but solid protection for a good trad leader.
'Better Than Better Than Love' is better than 'Better Than Love', but as it is almost universally accepted that 'Better Than Love' is no better than 'Love,' it should be understood that it is not implied that 'Better Than Better Than Love' is not better than 'Love.'
This particular line starts on a clean face and goes up to a hidden, horizontal, 2" crack, 5 meters up, then past a flake on the left with a tiny pine growing from behind it, then up a short and small, right-facing corner, past this to a crack and slab to the top. The crux is encountered just above the tree in a clean corner but can be escaped by bumping out left onto good face holds.
'Better Than Better Than Love' is better than 'Better Than Love', but as it is almost universally accepted that 'Better Than Love' is no better than 'Love,' it should be understood that it is not implied that 'Better Than Better Than Love' is not better than 'Love.'
This particular line starts on a clean face and goes up to a hidden, horizontal, 2" crack, 5 meters up, then past a flake on the left with a tiny pine growing from behind it, then up a short and small, right-facing corner, past this to a crack and slab to the top. The crux is encountered just above the tree in a clean corner but can be escaped by bumping out left onto good face holds.
Location
Down the hill from the Like Heaven summit there is a clean wall that is less than vertical. Several climbable features are here in solid, clean stone. Perhaps the lack of salient characteristics on this wall are the cause of the undocumented lines here, many of which have must have been climbed even in antiquity.
This climb is perhaps 50 meters downhill from the West face of the Like Heaven summit.
This climb is perhaps 50 meters downhill from the West face of the Like Heaven summit.
Protection
A set of hand-sized cams and a few larger nuts or tricams. Place a good directional up top before scrambling uphill 10 meters to a tree with a cordalette and biner to rap. I should have made the cord shorter or longer, but I didn't have a knife or more cord- maybe someone will swap it out.
Photos
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