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The Crimpfest Wall
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Better Rad than Trad 
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Easy Does It 
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Stooner's Highway 

Better Rad than Trad 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport
FA: the Head Crew, 1998?
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 20, 2001
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Description 

Long (100 foot) line that goes over two roofs on thin holds. Pretty cool. This is the line just right of File Drawer, or, if you prefer, currently route #6 from the left edge of the wall.


Protection 

13 bolts



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 20, 2001

Great addition!! This line weaves through a system of corners and roofs left of File Drawer. The route hits you with two thin crux moves around the roofs. Tackle the first straight on, but slip left for the second. Thin moves on crisp edges over each roof. Suck it up after the second roof, you are only half way home. Spacey clips and some mind control are the rest of the story. This is an excellent line and worth all of the three stars that Rich has given it. We had eyed this roof system for close to a year before Tod Anderson put it together and sent home - all in a day. Beautiful climb.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Oct 5, 2008

Fun route, probably my favorite on the wall - well, maybe tied with Dave's Dilemma. This line is right of file drawer, not left. Probably the better of the two, although file drawer is also excellent; Better Rad Than Trad is just more sustained, with some thought-provoking movement.

By heppnerd
Jul 16, 2012

onsighted crimpfest and file drawer but got shut down on the second roof on this.Does anyone know if a hold broke?

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 17, 2012

I suppose a hold could have broken, although that one always seemed kind of hard to me. The holds over the roof are kind of small crimps.