Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tradistan Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Lucky Than Good 
Da Cherry on Top! 
No Cherry For Old Men 
No Country For Old Men 
Nuggernaut 
Thundercats are Go! 

Better Lucky Than Good 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 750', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ED, TC
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: eDixon on Jul 14, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Approximate line.

The headwall crack of P5 can j...

Description 

The route climbs the steep face to the left of the big dihedral of Nuggernaut. The rock and protection are both generally good, the exception being pitch 3, which has a little looseness and some runouts above marginal gear.

P1: Start below the obvious, triangular-shaped cut-out of rock and follow vertical seams past some horizontal cracks into a rest. Climb out the left side of the roof to a crack, then some easy terrain leads to a steep finger crack. Finish on the large terrace at a big tree (5.9, 120').

P2: Climb up into a steep weakness. When it starts to look hard, move left and climb easier face and crack up to the next large ledge. Belay off gear (5.7, 150'). The last rap anchor is to the right about 35' on the same ledge system.

P3: Go up and left from the belay, pull a cobbly bulge. Continue up/left into a short corner with a finger crack. Then climb steep face with a few cracks up to the next ledge and find a belay. This pitch doesn't have the best gear (5.8 R, 120').

P4: Move the belay about 25' to the right, then climb up/right onto a nice-quality slab with a small crack for gear. Follow this to a tree at the next large ledge. This tree is also the third rappel anchor. (5.7, 90')

P5: Climb up through some steep cracks and corners to easier terrain that leads to a steep headwall split by an angling crack. Climb the crack (wide at first) up to a large ledge with a big tree. This tree is also the second rappel anchor. (5.8+, 200')

P6: A short pitch up a right-facing corner that leads to bolts, these are the first of the rappel anchors, scramble past the bolts to the summit (5.7, 50').

Descent: Do 5 rappels to get down. Scramble back to the bolted rap anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (60m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut.


Location 

Find the start about 100' to the left and 50' downhill of Nuggernaut. Locate an obvious, triangular-shaped cut-out of rock.


Protection 

(2) blue Alien - #3 Camalot
(1) #4 Camalot for P5 (opt)
(1) set of Stoppers
(2) 60m ropes.



Photos of Better Lucky Than Good Slideshow Add Photo
Moving out onto the slab of Pitch 4.
Moving out onto the slab of Pitch 4.
Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
Pitch 3 heads up/left towards the corner. Not hard but kinda heads-up.
Pitch 3 heads up/left towards the corner. Not hard...
Looking down Pitch 2.
Looking down Pitch 2.
Starting up Pitch 5.
Starting up Pitch 5.
Comments on Better Lucky Than Good Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -