Better Eat Your Wheaties
|Consensus: || Hueco: V8-9 Font: 7B+ [details]|
|Page Views: ||1,764|
|Submitted By: ||LeeAB on Mar 30, 2006|
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Danny Baker: was my attempt.
Photo Credit: Dan MO...
|East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only|
Some areas require a guide.
A classic crimp problem, Because of the nature of the holds this problem really is not all that height dependant.
From the start side pull get your feet on, either a good right or both, or a high left depending on your preference. If you are small bury the left hand side pull, if big, crush it for all your worth. Reach or bump your way up to a sharp edge that is some what of a gaston. Move your feet around and reach the pinch right at the lip. From here there are several ways to finish, and the next move or two are the crux. However you do it you will be tic-tacing your way up some pretty small holds that are on a vertical wall while your feet are still on the overhang.
To top out move left in the horizontal below the next over hanging panel and up at a flake at mid-height on this next overhanging panel. This is easier that the rest of the problem but it never hurts to have a look in advance just to see where those top out holds are over the lip.
From the meadow between the Maze and East Mt head throught the tunnel formed by the big boulder that is furthest to the left and the short wall to the right, when you get through you will be looking at an overhung wall that has lots of chalk and features. This one starts high on a good left-hand sidepull and right-hand crimper/gaston, in the middle/right of the face where there is another rock behind the steep face.
crash pads and spotters.
|Comments on Better Eat Your Wheaties
|By Luke Bertelsen|
Feb 2, 2008
Originally V9 until John Sherman downgraded it because a woman (Bobbi Bensman) climbed it. Still V9 in many climbers' opinions. A true classic.