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The best route at the cliff, and one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, Bete Noir tackles the intimidating three-foot roof before launching up the amazing pocketed arete above. The line is long, sustained, and the upper arete is steeper and more difficult than it looks. This must-do route would be a 4-star classic at any crag in the country, though at Shelf, it's just another on a long list of world-class routes authored by the prolific Mark Van Horn.
Begin at the right end of the wall below the obvious roof. Climb easily up to a long reach up to the crook of the roof. Take a deep breath, and launch out to the lip with difficulty. Grope up over the hang, work the feet, and set up for a low-percentage crux move to get established over the lip. Milk a good rest, then proceed up the mind-blowing arete with long, technical moves between good, hidden pockets.
Immediately right of "The Burnt Toast" lies a beautiful black wall, hanging above an impressive, tan, 3' deep horizontal roof. Bete Noir climbs the right line on this wall, beginning just left of the arete.
9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick Clip highly recommended!