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The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir S 
Black Toe Arete S 
Borg, The S 
Burnt Toast, The S 
Capital Outlay S 
Chuana Chavaria S 
Cold Feet S 
Datura S 
Delilah S 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 
Don't Make Me Shave You S 
It's All Gone S 
Laugh the Past Away S 
Locutus S 
Magus, The S 
Pincher S 
Resistance is Futile S 
Skank to Crank S 
Three Doubles S 
Torch & Twang S 
Tout Tout de Suite S 
Tower of Power S 
Triage S 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 

Bete Noir 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Bete Noir climbs over the daunting roof, and up th...


The best route at the cliff, and one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, Bete Noir tackles the intimidating three-foot roof before launching up the amazing pocketed arete above. The line is long, sustained, and the upper arete is steeper and more difficult than it looks. This must-do route would be a 4-star classic at any crag in the country, though at Shelf, it's just another on a long list of world-class routes authored by the prolific Mark Van Horn.

Begin at the right end of the wall below the obvious roof. Climb easily up to a long reach up to the crook of the roof. Take a deep breath, and launch out to the lip with difficulty. Grope up over the hang, work the feet, and set up for a low-percentage crux move to get established over the lip. Milk a good rest, then proceed up the mind-blowing arete with long, technical moves between good, hidden pockets.


Immediately right of "The Burnt Toast" lies a beautiful black wall, hanging above an impressive, tan, 3' deep horizontal roof. Bete Noir climbs the right line on this wall, beginning just left of the arete.


9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick Clip highly recommended!

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