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 ADVANCED
4 - Superfly Sector
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100 Degrees of Solitude S 
Betamorphosis S 
Broken Biscuit S 
Entertain with Ease S 
Superfly S 

Betamorphosis 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FA: Alex Kirkpatrick EQP: Vince Bates, Luis Cisneros
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: Alex Kirkpatrick on May 31, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Routes at the Super Fly Cave: Blue: Super Fly Red...

Description 

I was lucky enough to steal this FA out from under the two grey-beards who bolted and cleaned it a few years ago (Vince Bates, Luis Cisneros). Wrestle choss (rock is way better than it looks and actually very clean) through some super fun moves out the low roof to a sizable ledge. Load your guns and bring the ruckus through a powerfest boulder problem culminating in some wild dynamic moves. Keep it together and pretend you're in Spain as you surf another 50 feet of bullet limestone through technical feature climbing. This one is a real treat and one of the best hard routes at the dry due to its crazy exposure and phenomenal rock.

Location 

Second Route right of Superfly just before turning the corner to the Bee Cave.

Protection 

Bolts *70m rope necessary


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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 1, 2013

Well done and great route name... But Luis a grey beard??? Hahaha!
By Alex Kirkpatrick
Jun 4, 2013

Thanks man! I cant take any credit for the name. That was all Vince and Luis. I'm just jealous because my baby beard is blonde and splotchy
By Alex Kirkpatrick
Jan 8, 2014

A critical hold broke off the crux of this route making the boulder problem significantly harder, hence the grade change.