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Digital Tower
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Beta Sponge 
Beyond The Firetower 
Jesus H. Cranker 
Middle Route, The 
T-zilla, Rap Drilla 

Beta Sponge 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Magill, Anderson, Moskovics, Burwick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: richard magill on Nov 29, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Digital Tower from the Southwest
Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is a fun and tricky line on Digital Tower. Unlike some routes up at the Head, this isn't that hard to find - just go to the firetower and look over at the closest obvious red tower - Digital Tower.

The first pitch is 10a, really just an access pitch that takes you to a belay ledge at about 80 feet. This pitch is not bad climbing - clean and enjoyable. The access pitch is smack in the middle of the Digital Tower as you face it from the Devil's Head firetower. It is currently the only route there, so you can't miss it.

From the belay ledge, you can access four routes. To the left of the belay ledge is Beta Sponge. The second pitch of Beta Sponge is about 60 feet, and is slightly overhanging. The climbing is hard right off the ledge, and reaches a crux about 30 feet up. It involves tricky footwork and some concentrated sidepulling and underclinging.

It is also possible (and even more fun, I think) to string this all together into a single 140 foot pitch.


1st pitch (10a) - 10 bolts? 2nd pitch (12a) - 8 bolts?

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