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Beta on Taulliraju?
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By John Collis
Feb 10, 2014
Hey so I'm heading to the Cordillera Blanca this July and I've been researching routes like crazy. I'm extremely intrigued by Taulliraju (who isn't?) and I came across mention of a route called the GMHM Route in this article on the Alpinist's website. alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/climbin...

Does anyone know anything more about it? Does it summit? The page above says that it goes at WI4+ M4, is that accurate? Seems too easy for a route on that peak, but I can't seem to find any other info on it anywhere. I have copies of both the Sharman and Johnson guidebooks, but they're both pretty select guides so maybe one of you out there has more info.

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By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2014
Hip trouble ...
I think this is the E face, isn't it?
Talliraju!
Talliraju!

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By John Collis
Feb 10, 2014
Yep—that's it! Not sure what lines those two routes take though. I know the Johnson guide lists the Italian Route, which climbs a mixed couloir up that left-side buttress, but dunno about the other routes.

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By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Feb 10, 2014
Hip trouble ...
Sorry, I don't have any beta. We just hiked up under it one day to acclimatize on the way in to climb Alpamayo. I was blown away by the peak! Looks very difficult!

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By John Collis
Feb 10, 2014
No worries—thanks for responding. Great photo BTW. Yup, pretty challenging peak, most routes seem to require mandatory sections of M6/5.10 in boots

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By Nate Farr
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 11, 2014
Profile
Take a look at the Alpinist where Taulliraju was the peak profile (Alpinist 7 maybe?), it lists all of the routes on the mountain at the time of printing. If I recall correctly, that route climbs a buttress well right of that photo and then climbs the right hand skyline to the summit.

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By coryhall
From saint john, nb canada
Feb 14, 2014
yo man, i'm driving down there now on a motorbike.going to be spending the season in peru, ive got quite a bit of experance with this stuff hit me up of find me on face book if ur looking for a partner

chears

cory hall

coryhall_norco_aline @hotmail.com

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By Cissa
Apr 14, 2014
Yanapaccha summit (5460m) via direct route, AD 200m 70-80º
Hey John,

Taulli is a mountain as hard as Huantsan, and seldom climbed by foreign climbers, so your best option would be to head to Casa de Guiaz and find out if any of the locals have any beta on routes even if not that recent.

I know of someone who attempted it a few years ago, but with the ever changing conditions in this areas, talking to the locals is probably the safest bet.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Apr 14, 2014
John Collis wrote:
The page above says that it goes at WI4+ M4, is that accurate? Seems too easy for a route on that peak, but I can't seem to find any other info on it anywhere.

That actually seems kind of hard if you've got some altitude, clunkier boots, a heavy pack, maybe less than ideal pro and the situation where, if you get hurt, the road is a lot farther away than it is in Vail and you'll likely have to do a Joe Simpson to save your own bacon. That's not to say you shouldn't go for it, just that ratings can be deceiving. The Eiger is only 5.7 right?

Anyways, I know that there's an older issue of Alpinist with a profile on the peak. You won't be able to buy a back print issue, but it may be one of the issues that you can buy a pdf of. Worth checking out at least. I've always thought that it was an absolutely rad looking peak.

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