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Beta on Practicing Aide and Hauling?
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By sammiller
From park city
Aug 4, 2012
Crack house
I recently started getting into trad and now long for long multiple pitches. However, I live in Utah and these are not entirely abundant by any means. I would like to get some beta on big wall things, especially aide climbing and hauling, so that I can practice them close to home, before venturing off into the beautiful abyss. Any suggestions?

FLAG
By Alpinisto
From Connecticut
Aug 4, 2012
My suggestions:

1. Spend time going through old posts in the Big Wall/Aid forums here on Mountain Project and rockclimbing.com.

2. Do the same at John Middendorf's bigwalls.com website (an aid climbing-specific site which, while not posted on as often as the other climbing sites, has a shit-ton of useful information from guys who actually do a lot of aid/bigwall climbing).

3. Pick up the following books:

-Climbing Big Walls by Mike Strassman
-Big Walls by John Long and John Middendorf
-Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique by Jared Ogden

4. Find an experienced aid climber in your area and see if s/he will take you under their wing and show you the ropes (pun intended). Payment in the form of beer, hauling loads, beer, belay slavery and/or beer will probably get you pretty far. ;-)


I've done #1 through #3 and have figured out a ton of stuff (that I now need to go practice ad infinitum at my local crag). Still working on #4, though... ;-)

FLAG
By Jason Todd
From Ranchester, WY
Aug 4, 2012
Moss
Another good resource:
supertopo.com/a/How-To-Big-Wal...

McNamara does an excellent job here. It is very important to master the low angle and easy aid before attempting to progress.

FLAG
By Tim Hudgel
Aug 4, 2012
Have Fun!!

Is the Internet cool, or what?
The Fang
The Fang

FLAG
By Wade J.
From Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2012
winter aid climbing
I second Jason's comment. Also google Mark Hudon, he is a big wall magician and has some great write ups online.

FLAG
By Mark Hudon
Aug 5, 2012
On the North America Wall in 1977.
Thanks,

El Cap Route Panoramas and Big Wall Tips

FLAG
By Wade J.
From Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2012
winter aid climbing


Yeah, that would be the site! I was posting from my phone and didn't have the link. Thank you Mark, for teaching the world that big wall anchors can be sexy.

FLAG
By sammiller
From park city
Aug 5, 2012
Crack house
Thanks guys, I greatly appreciate the help, it is much needed! Cheers!

FLAG
 
By Cultivating Mass
Aug 7, 2012
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
I think this guy may have contracted full blown aides.

FLAG
By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Mar 26, 2013
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber
A shameless plug for my newly updated index, where you can find almost everything you never wanted to know about aid climbing and big walls:

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum...

FLAG


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