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Beta Needed: Mission Gorge (Nutcracker/Gallwas)
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By agd
Jun 25, 2012
alaska

What's the anchor situation like for these two routes (Nutcracker and Gallwas Crack)? Bolts or gear? Are they accessible from the top or do I need to lead it?

Trying to improve my crack climbing skills, and what better than a slippery, guano-filled crack to practice on! Thanks.


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By Brad W
From San Diego
Jun 25, 2012

Bolts. Easily accessible from the top, though can feel slightly exposed getting to them (a little worse than MG average). A cordalette or 4ft slings will help keep a TR smooth in the pinched off top to the chimney.


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By Brad W
From San Diego
Jun 25, 2012

Also can do Handyman or another climb from the ground with the same TR to make for ~100ft of vertical climbing.


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By agd
Jun 25, 2012
alaska

Thanks. Also, I've never actually hiked up to the top of Main Wall...is it best to approach from the climbers left or climbers right if you are facing Nutcracker?


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By Brad W
From San Diego
Jun 25, 2012

Climber's left is what I've always done.

When you get up to the main wall keep hiking left until you get to the end (Rock On and Knob Job area). There's a sign in a little gully saying no hiking beyond this point. Scramble up here, then after ~20ft you'll hit a big ledge with a tree. Start walking climber's right back towards the rest of the main wall and a little notch. Go up over a ~4ft rock that's in the way, look right and you should see this: www.mountainproject.com/v/106003836

Keep going climber's right along the main wall, path of least resistance/class 2/etc. until you get to the anchor you're after.


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By agd
Jun 25, 2012
alaska

Awesome, thanks.


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