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Decadent Wall
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Abortions on Parade T 
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Bestiality 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: morning shade
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Pete Spri on Sep 5, 2011

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Description 

Start on a ramp, and immediately hit the crux. A vertically placed 00 tcu gives some mental pro to keep you off the approach slab. You also have the option of a shallowly placed #1 metolius near the 00. You can also step up before fully committing to the crux and place an even better #1 metolius that you actually feel good about.

After working your feet up and pulling a somewhat interesting side pull while leaning, you step up into the crack and get some good pro. Follow the corner system to the top.


Location 

To the right of Adolescent H. and to the left of the 11 and 10a sport routes. This is the left faceing corner system that requires some face climbing to access.


Protection 

00 and 1 metolius or equal required near the bottom.

There is no fixed gear on the route, and no anchors at the top, so the easiest solution is the walk off to the north. Follow the crest, then work your way down into a chimney system for the descent.



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By Alec
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

As it says in the guidebook, don't fall at the crux. You can place a good piece to keep from tumbling past the approach slab, but that won't prevent you from decking. It's over fast though. The rest of the route is well-protected. Build an anchor, then rap from the designated rap anchor between Adolescent and the 5.8.