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Best way to self anchor?

Original Post
Mostafa Noori · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 601

I was wondering what would be the preferred method of self anchoring at the top of a route once its ready to be cleaned.

I have only been climbing for about a week outdoors and this is what I've been doing:

1. Two opposing quickdraws on the anchor or chain links.
a. In some situations i've extended the quickdraws with quickdraws for more room.
2. Sling in a sliding x configuration with locking biners two on chain or anchor third on belay loop

Is there anything wrong with either of these methods?

The reason I dont use personal anchor devices or daisy chains is because they are expensive and I heard they can fail easily especially if not used right.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Mostafa wrote:The reason I dont use personal anchor devices or daisy chains is because they are expensive...
So is a hospital. Go climb with somebody that knows the answers to your questions and can help you learn how to safely climb.
Mostafa Noori · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 601

expensive and heard they fail.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

This topic has been covered 100 times on this site. Do a little searching.

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106

After using a Metolious PAS for years I recently switched over to the purcell prusik. Check it out here: climbing.com/print/techtips…

7mm dynamic cordelette from bluewater costs about 50¢/foot. Not bad at all.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

How about tied nylon webbing and a two biners? Pretty cheap and effective.

Robert Fogle · · Juneau, AK · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 35

You use anchors? I thought rings were finger sized for a reason?

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

really, you brought this thread back for that Rob?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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