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NickMartel
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Sep 21, 2011
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Tucson, Arizona
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 1,332
I am working on puting some stuff up on a little rock outcroping that is like 5 min from my house. I dont think annyone else really climbs here yet. So the particular route in question would be traversing rightward and up (see pics) along the side of this outcroping but the ground also slopes up so you never end up more than 5-8 feet or so above the ground. I guess some would say it could be a boulder problem but it is too long for that and would take either 10+ pads or a person or 2 dragging pads under you the whole time and the landing is steep (would be very hard for someone to walk under you). So how should I protect it? Can it be lead safely? Do I just TR it and run bolts down the side to stick clip before climbing and just unclip them as I go (keeping the bolts closer to each other than the distance between the climber and the ground)? Do I need to put bolts every 3 feet or so to lead it safely/ prevent decking? Thanks
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Mike Lane
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Sep 21, 2011
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
Bolting it is pointless; you can 'deck' w/ each clip, no matter how close. 5-10 feet is not particularly high for a boulder problem. Have a spotter follow you up with the intent of keeping you from bouncing down the hill.
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NickMartel
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Sep 21, 2011
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Tucson, Arizona
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 1,332
The issue with that is the slab under 2ed half is actually like 5.3 climbing in and of itself so spotting someone would be hard and falls onto that slab would = broken ankles. Maybe it is just not posable to protect.
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Tyrel Fuller
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Sep 21, 2011
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Denver, CO
· Joined May 2010
· Points: 130
Place a bolt halfway up, stick clip it, climb away.
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Christian "crisco" Burrell
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Sep 21, 2011
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PG, Utah
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 1,815
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Ian Cavanaugh
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Sep 21, 2011
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Ketchum, ID
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 620
boulder it. use the crack in the middle of the image as protection for the spotter. leave them on a fixed line and a grigri so they can adjust accordingly. do not bolt it. or just climb it at an R/X rating. you could also try and find natural pro to keep you from tumbling to far down the hill.
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J.B.
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Sep 21, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 150
Ian Cavanaugh wrote:. you could also try and find natural pro to keep you from tumbling to far down the hill. But what if he just has bolts!?
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berl
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Sep 21, 2011
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Seattle
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 25
it looks like there are plenty of options for natural pro just sling this cactus
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Tim McCabe
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Sep 21, 2011
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 130
Bolts are not the answer they only give you cancer. Actually it might be possible to rig two top ropes and have your belayer use a double rope device. What ever you do it should be done with the least number of bolts possible IMO. Please think before you drill, not against drilling in general just opposed to over doing it. Get creative check out some of the grit stone vids. Those Brits know how to think outside the box. Rather then the typical instant gratification drill baby drill style. IMO it's far more rewarding that way.
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Keyan P
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Sep 21, 2011
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Portland, ME
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 80
Looks there are a couple of spots that could take nuts. Or you could just boulder it and not fall.
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Boissal .
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Sep 21, 2011
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Small Lake, UT
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 1,541
berl wrote:just sling this cactus Post of the month? Slow clap.
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NickMartel
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Sep 22, 2011
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Tucson, Arizona
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 1,332
so the "natural pro" spot circled in red is actually a compleatly loose mess that would get cleaned off IF i were to try to do this line but I think I am leaning towards passing on it.
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NickMartel
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Sep 22, 2011
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Tucson, Arizona
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 1,332
Or as someone suggested setting it up with a TR anchor on each end and belaying with 2 ropes.
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Jim Titt
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Sep 22, 2011
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Germany
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 490
Set up a rope fixed at both ends diagonally up the bit you want to climb and use any of the normal top-rope soloing methods (Shunt, Ascender or whatever).
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J.B.
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Sep 22, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 150
NickMartel wrote:so the "natural pro" spot circled in red is actually a compleatly loose mess that would get cleaned off IF i were to try to do this line but I think I am leaning towards passing on it. So you're saying the cactus isn't bomber? Definetely don't bolt this...
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Andrew Plagens
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Nov 29, 2011
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 40
Just but bolts every three feet or so.....that should do it.
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Larry
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Nov 29, 2011
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SoAZ
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 50
Don't waste bolts in the Tucson Mountains.
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Tim McCabe
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Nov 29, 2011
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Tucson, AZ
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 130
Larry wrote:Don't waste bolts in the Tucson Mountains. An excellent point.
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