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Best way to protect a particular climb?
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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Sep 21, 2011

I am working on puting some stuff up on a little rock outcroping that is like 5 min from my house. I dont think annyone else really climbs here yet.

So the particular route in question would be traversing rightward and up (see pics) along the side of this outcroping but the ground also slopes up so you never end up more than 5-8 feet or so above the ground. I guess some would say it could be a boulder problem but it is too long for that and would take either 10+ pads or a person or 2 dragging pads under you the whole time and the landing is steep (would be very hard for someone to walk under you).

So how should I protect it? Can it be lead safely? Do I just TR it and run bolts down the side to stick clip before climbing and just unclip them as I go (keeping the bolts closer to each other than the distance between the climber and the ground)? Do I need to put bolts every 3 feet or so to lead it safely/ prevent decking?

Thanks

1st half.
1st half.


top 1/2 <br />
top 1/2


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Sep 21, 2011
Stabby

Bolting it is pointless; you can 'deck' w/ each clip, no matter how close. 5-10 feet is not particularly high for a boulder problem. Have a spotter follow you up with the intent of keeping you from bouncing down the hill.


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Sep 21, 2011

The issue with that is the slab under 2ed half is actually like 5.3 climbing in and of itself so spotting someone would be hard and falls onto that slab would = broken ankles. Maybe it is just not posable to protect.


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By Tyrel Fuller
From Denver, CO
Sep 21, 2011
Big Bend

Place a bolt halfway up, stick clip it, climb away.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Sep 21, 2011
Our less than official sponsor!

TR


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By Ian Cavanaugh
Sep 21, 2011

boulder it. use the crack in the middle of the image as protection for the spotter. leave them on a fixed line and a grigri so they can adjust accordingly. do not bolt it. or just climb it at an R/X rating. you could also try and find natural pro to keep you from tumbling to far down the hill.


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By J.J
Sep 21, 2011

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:
. you could also try and find natural pro to keep you from tumbling to far down the hill.

But what if he just has bolts!?


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By berl
From Oregon
Sep 21, 2011

it looks like there are plenty of options for natural pro

natural pro
natural pro


just sling this cactus


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By Tim McCabe
Sep 21, 2011

Bolts are not the answer they only give you cancer.

Actually it might be possible to rig two top ropes and have your belayer use a double rope device.

What ever you do it should be done with the least number of bolts possible IMO.

Please think before you drill, not against drilling in general just opposed to over doing it.

Get creative check out some of the grit stone vids. Those Brits know how to think outside the box. Rather then the typical instant gratification drill baby drill style. IMO it's far more rewarding that way.


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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
Sep 21, 2011
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH

Looks there are a couple of spots that could take nuts. Or you could just boulder it and not fall.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Sep 21, 2011

berl wrote:
just sling this cactus

Post of the month? Slow clap.


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Sep 22, 2011

so the "natural pro" spot circled in red is actually a compleatly loose mess that would get cleaned off IF i were to try to do this line but I think I am leaning towards passing on it.


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Sep 22, 2011

Or as someone suggested setting it up with a TR anchor on each end and belaying with 2 ropes.


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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Sep 22, 2011

Set up a rope fixed at both ends diagonally up the bit you want to climb and use any of the normal top-rope soloing methods (Shunt, Ascender or whatever).


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By J.J
Sep 22, 2011

NickMartel wrote:
so the "natural pro" spot circled in red is actually a compleatly loose mess that would get cleaned off IF i were to try to do this line but I think I am leaning towards passing on it.

So you're saying the cactus isn't bomber?

Definetely don't bolt this...


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By Andrew Plagens
From Gunnison, Colorado
Nov 29, 2011
profile pic

Just but bolts every three feet or so.....that should do it.


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By Larry
From SoAZ
Nov 29, 2011

Don't waste bolts in the Tucson Mountains.


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By Tim McCabe
Nov 29, 2011

Larry wrote:
Don't waste bolts in the Tucson Mountains.


An excellent point.


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