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Best Trad Harness?
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May 2, 2013
Ancient Art, UT
My vote is for Yates Shield.

I hate gear slings so I too rack up on my harness and I have found this harness carries the weight the best. Also offers the most comfort for hanging belays. Tried the BD Big Gun and Arcteryx B-…something (there supposed "multi pitch" harness) and neither came close to the Yates. If you are doing lots of hanging belays all day you will start to notice the Yates is much more comfy. Only down side to the Yates is it is on the heavy and bulky side.
danny m
From All over
Joined Oct 6, 2009
151 points
May 2, 2013
ok, dead bird bad for trad, good for sport.

Regarding gear slings, what about those gear slings for aid which is symetrical on both sides and wears like a backpack?

I'm not thin, but by virtue of being very short, my harnesses have less circumference and thus holds fewer and smaller gear loops. My one tall stick thin climbing partner was surprised that his harness was two fists too big on me.

So, in lieu of extra layered gear loops, or a over the shoulder sling, are backpack type of slings good? Though looks a bit ridiculous on single pitch trad.
Ana Tine
Joined Dec 7, 2012
66 points
Administrator
May 2, 2013
El Chorro
Misty Mountain. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
May 2, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
Never been too impressed with my Misty harness. Just sayin. It's all about fit. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't matter what brand you buy. And pretty much I feel like I need more than 4 gear loops, it's time to start bringing less gear...unless I'm aid climbing, and even then I have a chest harness. csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
209 points
May 2, 2013
Fitzroy09
I have had several Cadillacs and I like the 3 gear loops but I found that the Arc'teryx harnesses are lighter and more comfortable for trad climbing. If you think you might want to get out on some walls maybe the Cadillac will suit you better than the other.

I rack on my harness also and to save space I rack my sport draws/draws in 3s. The rest of my gear is on single carabiners and the Arc'teryx with 4 or 6 loops has plenty of room.
Keith Robinson
Joined Aug 2, 2008
10 points
May 2, 2013
Fitzroy09
I love chimneys. Never had a gear loop pop off. I had the Big Gun, it was OK for walls but overkill for trad routes. Keith Robinson
Joined Aug 2, 2008
10 points
May 3, 2013
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB
BD big gun = 660g
MM Cadilac = 525g

WC Summit = 435g
Arc'teryx B360A =360g

I think 2 of them stand out here....

the diffrence between the BD and Arc'teryx equals to about 2-3 more C4 cams you can rack for the weight diffrence
Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Joined Apr 13, 2011
102 points
May 3, 2013
Top half of Melifluous
I know I posted Cadillac earlier, but what I climb everything in is a Misty Mountain Intrepid with a fifth gear loop on the rear center for carrying miscellaneous stuff. Not as big as a Cadillac but still very comfy and 3 ounces (85 grams) lighter than it if you're counting weight. Sam Stephens
Joined Jan 20, 2010
768 points
May 3, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
Charlie s wrote: "... But I personally wanted double-backed straps; speed buckles in OWs scare me." Smart man. I'm not going to ditch my syncro prematurely but I had never thought of that. Its a detail that I'm glad I'm aware of now (I see the potential that a speed buckle could loosen if smashed correctly in a squeeze chimney/offwidth). Thanks man.



I have the WC Synchro. It is one of the best I have used for Trad, and the buckles are actually difficult to undo with your hands, so I doubt very seriously you could work them loose in an offwidth. This harness is super comfortable, and carries a ton of gear.
Weekend Warrior
From Denver, CO
Joined Nov 28, 2011
0 points
May 3, 2013
Petzl Sama.

Light, simple. Non-adjustable leg loops (the elastic triangle works great for a little fluctuation), four gear loops - hard on the side, soft on the back, speed buckle. I rack on my harness 95% of the time, and I have no real issues with space. I will NEVER own another harness without a speed buckle. Have climbed literally miles of wide cracks in Samas, and the speed buckles have never moved an inch...by contrast, during pre-climb knot/safety checks, I've caught two different partners who hadn't doubled back a "regular" buckle. I will never have to worry about forgetting to double back.

I do own a Yates Shield...for aid climbing. That thing is way too heavy and bulky for a free climbing harness.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,262 points
May 3, 2013
For those of you that own the misty mountain cadillac. I was looking at them and the sizing chart shows only a 3" swing on any of the sizes (ex. 32" - 35") are they that close or is there a little more wiggle room so to say. No one local carries them and that would be a hard call for an internet order.

Thanks,
Jeb
jeb013
From Portland
Joined Jul 31, 2012
14 points
May 3, 2013
Upper pitches on Crescent Tower, Bugaboos.
jeb013 wrote:
For those of you that own the misty mountain cadillac. I was looking at them and the sizing chart shows only a 3" swing on any of the sizes (ex. 32" - 35") are they that close or is there a little more wiggle room so to say. No one local carries them and that would be a hard call for an internet order. Thanks, Jeb


There is wiggle room. Honestly just call them and ask. You'll more than likely talk to Goose or Mike Grimm (the owners) and they will hook you up. They will get you the perfect fitting Misty and you will not be disappointed.

mistymountain.com/purchase.htm
Jonathan Dull
From Boone, NC
Joined Mar 2, 2012
424 points
May 3, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
After 14 years of trad climbing, the BD Chaos harness is the best trad harness I've climbed in. Comfortable and low volume. Plus I don't like 6 gear loops on a trad harness. I don't ever need more than 4 for 1 day routes.

Has anyone actually had a problem with speed buckles loosening in an offwidth or chimney? Or is that just speculation? I have never encountered that problem.
Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
211 points
May 3, 2013
jeb013 wrote:
For those of you that own the misty mountain cadillac. I was looking at them and the sizing chart shows only a 3" swing on any of the sizes (ex. 32" - 35") are they that close or is there a little more wiggle room so to say. No one local carries them and that would be a hard call for an internet order. Thanks, Jeb



Make sure you get a measuring tape and actually measure your waist!

I originally went with my jeans size (32) and got a medium only to find out that the harness was at the end of it's range with the gear loops too far back. Traded it in for a large and it was a much better fit.

I've since lost a bit of weight and a medium would probably be a good fit now, but that's another story.
Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Joined May 6, 2008
91 points
May 28, 2014
Dreamweaver
Several mentions of the WC Summit harness in this thread, has anyone actually had experience climbing with it in the year+ since this thread's genesis?

Also curious if anyone has climbed in the DMM Renegade 2 which seems to be very similar in concept to the WC Summit.

Both of these harnesses are appealing but only available from retailers that will not allow returns on any climbing equipment.
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
15 points
May 28, 2014
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
Dave Bn wrote:
Several mentions of the WC Summit harness in this thread, has anyone actually had experience climbing with it in the year+ since this thread's genesis? Also curious if anyone has climbed in the DMM Renegade 2 which seems to be very similar in concept to the WC Summit. Both of these harnesses are appealing but only available from retailers that will not allow returns on any climbing equipment.


I've got a summit, got about 40 pitches in it. I like it a lot, definitely has some perks over the Elite Ziplok Syncro, or whatever the last one was called. The only problem I have is the front gear loop is a bright color, but the second one isn't. I wish it was.
Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Joined Mar 7, 2010
362 points
May 28, 2014
Another Misty Cadillac owner here.

The one thing I don't like about my Cadillac is that the back straps that connect the leg loops to the harness are static straps instead of elastic, and they're just short enough so that if I'm in a very "butt out" seated position they end up cinching tight on my ass.

That being said, I asked MM about it and their response was "send it to us and we'll change them for you free of charge". So at this point the only reason I don't have the elastic straps is that I've been too lazy to send it to them. If you ordered a new one though they can swap them out for elastic if you ask. They'll pretty much do anything you want to a harness if you ask, really.

Aside from that, it's super comfy and I like the 6 gear loops.
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
May 29, 2014
Dreamweaver
Josh Olson wrote:
The only problem I have is the front gear loop is a bright color, but the second one isn't. I wish it was.


Just out of curiosity, is this an aesthetics complaint or are the second gear loops not as visible?
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
15 points
May 29, 2014
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
I don't think I'll ever climb in anything except a Cadillac ever again. Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
May 29, 2014
The new Cadillacs have elastic holdups as a stock feature. Mike Grimm
Joined May 5, 2009
1 points
May 29, 2014
Colonel Mustard
I most often rack on my harness, and four gear loops is adequate. Seven seems a lot? Dunno though, beyond a modicum of comfort, I admit I do not delve deep into harness particulars. Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,367 points
May 29, 2014
Colonel Mustard wrote:
I most often rack on my harness, and four gear loops is adequate.


It really depends on the climber, the route, and the size of the gear loops. Some harnesses with 4 loops have really big loops that end up providing just as much space as a 6 loop harness, so the only benefit of the extra loops is for organization. When I picked up my Cadillac I went from a sport-oriented harness with 4 small gear loops, so it really was a big difference. It was pretty much impossible to rack a full double rack on my old harness for multi-pitch climbs so I'd end up having to put my slings over my shoulders. Now I have enough room for the full rack including the alpine draws on my harness. I also like having the overlapping loops, as it lets me put more of my gear towards the back, keeping it out of the way when I climb.
Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
May 29, 2014
I haven't used any other harness but the Petzl Adjama for an extended period of time. I am really happy with it in the alpine. It's comfy, i don't feel my harness cutting into me on a hanging belay. Only 4 loops, but there are tons of little loops to which you can clip biners, and make them gear loops.

I clip all my draws to a large biner, on the small loops in between the gear loops, ordered by size. That leaves my gear loops for just gear, nut biners and 2 QDs. It's not cumbersome or hard to reach(perfect for me) and I feel like I could add another rack(making 3) on there and it might feel a bit tight then.
Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 29, 2013
35 points
May 29, 2014
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
Dave Bn wrote:
Just out of curiosity, is this an aesthetics complaint or are the second gear loops not as visible?


Second gear loop is definitely not as visible. Very similar color to what is under it.
Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Joined Mar 7, 2010
362 points
May 31, 2014
Dave Bn,

Got about 6 months of climbing in the WC Summit, mostly trad, single and multi pitch.

Description: Body is definitely in the lightweight category. I don't know how the actual weight compares, but the webbing is on the thinner side and I think generally if you pick it up, you'll think of it as such, whatever that means to you. Gear loop setup is as if you took your standard 4 loop harness and tacked on 3 additional, smaller loops. One right on the back above the haul loop, and 2 more smaller loops, one on each side. The additional loops on the side are each positioned, respectively, directly above where the 2 larger loops meet. There's no gap in between the 2 "standard" loops to make room for the additional loop, it is simply positioned right above them. It's got 2 buckles on the waist belt, one on each side of belay loop.

Opinion: Overall, quite good. Couple things I'd change, but considering I got the harness for it's gear loops, I'm happy with it. Initially I was pretty disappointed by the side gear loop setup I described above having the extra small loop above and overlapping with the standard ones. I didn't really like that on the Cadillac, although I only tried that harness briefly, because gear got cluttered and hard to get to once it was stacked. That being said, after some use, I actually quite like the Summit's setup. The small loop can take 3-4 pieces pretty easily without really overlapping/tangling with the other 2 loops. If I've got a standard double set of cams, I put my #1, #2, and #3 on the little guy. That means my front loop has got #.75 and down and some nuts, which even with a ton of aliens down to black, leaves it pretty convenient, and now you've still got the "side rear", the other full size loop on the side, for runners, loose biners, etc, and a small loop in the way back for your anchor building stuff, shoes, water, etc.

What I'd change if I were king: The 2 waist belt adjusters are pretty damn pointless in my opinion, and the front of the harness does NOT sit well as a result of them. They attached foam pads to the belay loop are and then the waist past the buckles and it just in practice doesn't really line up well, at least for me. I'm probably gonna cut some of the padding off as it just goes helper skelter and doesn't give any real padding. Also, I'm a pretty solid 34" waist and the 32-34" size is tightened down alllll the way. I have to fold back some of the padding to get it tight enough some days..
Also, I don't really care about weight on a harness, because even the biggest ones I've climbed in have never even registered on my internal scale. So I would just beef it up a bit, although it's pretty comfy at hanging belays as is.
Finally, I'd make the rear gear loop a standard size big one. No reason not too it seems like, as it's not competing for room, but it gets it done as is.

Hope that helps you make a decision. Like I said, I like it, especially the gear loops, which is my main concern, and it's comfy, fit and adjustability could just be improved in my opinion. I wouldn't be surprised if the next model has a different waist belt setup as everyone who sees it agrees it's kinda wonky and really not serving much of a purpose.
B.S. Luther
From Traveling the states
Joined Dec 3, 2009
45 points


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