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Best Trad Climbing Harness
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By Larry S
Apr 24, 2012
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

How does everyone like the overlapping gear loops on the caddy? My next harness i'm planning on going with misty and asking them to put a back gear loop like the BD big gun on it. Are the lower side loops usefull or a dumb like on my BD?


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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From Idyllwild, CA
Apr 24, 2012
Bouldering in Joshua Tree

I love my MM Caddy. I find the six gear loops more helpful for organization than racking a shit ton of gear. I find that having the lower back two offset from the top loops helps keep the gear from getting snagged and mixed up. As for hanging belays, I've never had a problem. I've got an older Caddy though and there's a lot of padding.


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By SlowTrad
From St Paul, MN
Apr 24, 2012

CAMP Quarz is great for routes in places like Eldo or the Flatirons where you typically don't need a huge rack. But I second the MM Cadillac, which I use for longer routes, or routes requiring more cams.

The CAMP model is more comfortable if you don't wear a shirt while climbing, the fabric is rolled over the top of the belt in such a way that no seam presses into your flesh at all.

Mostly moot point to me, I rack on a BD Zodiac sling.


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By Puzman
Apr 25, 2012
Little finger

Me likey the Metolius Safe-tech harnesses. I've been using one for several years, and its comfy, easy to rack gear on, and its nice to know that pretty much everything on the harness is rated to at least 10kN.


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By Superclimber
Apr 25, 2012

Another option if you like organized gear loops is the Wild Country Syncro. It's reasonably comfortable, light, and has 6 useful gear loops. There's a 7th gear loop in the very back that's nearly useless. The negative side is the ziplock buckles. They're really stupid.


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By Jeremy Kasmann
From Denver, CO
Apr 25, 2012

Chris Miller wrote:
Another option if you like organized gear loops is the Wild Country Syncro. It's reasonably comfortable, light, and has 6 useful gear loops. There's a 7th gear loop in the very back that's nearly useless. The negative side is the ziplock buckles. They're really stupid.


Funny. I had one and found the small, top/side loops useless. The back loop was handy for my shoes, water, belay device, etc. In the end I got rid of it because it was big and bulky and mostly overkill for free climbs.


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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Apr 25, 2012
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick

Jeremy Kasmann wrote:
Funny. I had one and found the small, top/side loops useless. The back loop was handy for my shoes, water, belay device, etc. In the end I got rid of it because it was big and bulky and mostly overkill for free climbs.


I agree with this, but I eventually figured out how to use the little loops. I love the harness, and can hang in it for around a half hour before I start getting crabby.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 25, 2012
Cleo's Needle

johnL wrote:
Why is it that people who know what the fuck they're talking about here get overshadowed by gear hungry n00b advice? Double checking here for understanding; trad = hanging in your harness all day and racking tons of gear? Hmm, makes me wonder what I've been doing with my widgets and doohickeys. Bottom line for all you 5.9 multipitch trad guys (that's an insult in case you're wondering). A free climbing harness built to move in and not be too heavy is the answer. There are only a handful of uber light gear loop shy pure "sport" harnesses on the market. If you can't get it done with a 4 loop harness with modest pads, you're doing it wrong. What do I know though, I only took my Sama to Greenland, Zion, the Black, bolted new routes in it, set routes in a gym with it, and climbed single pitch all over the states (world actually) and don't have a complaint.


Excuse me sir, I think you dropped your wallet.


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By Mark Mueller
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2012
Great quality rock on this one!

johnL wrote:
That was a vote against, not for, the Sama. We don't all drive Audi's you know.


That was on Mar 31, 2009...

guess you changed your mind? I'm thinking about getting a Sama. Has your opinion changed?


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By Leeroy
Apr 25, 2012

johnL wrote:
Why is it that people who know what the fuck they're talking about here get overshadowed by gear hungry n00b advice? Double checking here for understanding; trad = hanging in your harness all day and racking tons of gear? Hmm, makes me wonder what I've been doing with my widgets and doohickeys. Bottom line for all you 5.9 multipitch trad guys (that's an insult in case you're wondering). A free climbing harness built to move in and not be too heavy is the answer. There are only a handful of uber light gear loop shy pure "sport" harnesses on the market. If you can't get it done with a 4 loop harness with modest pads, you're doing it wrong. What do I know though, I only took my Sama to Greenland, Zion, the Black, bolted new routes in it, set routes in a gym with it, and climbed single pitch all over the states (world actually) and don't have a complaint.


Why is it that people talking about climbing gear on a climbing website gets you so riled up?

We all know you climb hard and a lot John. No one but you gives a shit. Thanks for jerking off all over this thread. Why don't you get back to your arts and crafts project and figure out how to light your shoes on fire.


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By Bowens
From Carlsbad, CA
Apr 25, 2012
New Yosemite

johnL wrote:
Why is it that people who know what the fuck they're talking about here get overshadowed by gear hungry n00b advice? Double checking here for understanding; trad = hanging in your harness all day and racking tons of gear? Hmm, makes me wonder what I've been doing with my widgets and doohickeys. Bottom line for all you 5.9 multipitch trad guys (that's an insult in case you're wondering). A free climbing harness built to move in and not be too heavy is the answer. There are only a handful of uber light gear loop shy pure "sport" harnesses on the market. If you can't get it done with a 4 loop harness with modest pads, you're doing it wrong. What do I know though, I only took my Sama to Greenland, Zion, the Black, bolted new routes in it, set routes in a gym with it, and climbed single pitch all over the states (world actually) and don't have a complaint.


My current harness is the Adjama, which is identical to the Sama, but with adjustable leg loops; I love the Adjama, but sadly it doesn't accommodate much gear without quickly becoming crowded. A gear sling get's in the way in many circumstances, and so I am looking for a harness that accommodates racking exclusively on the harness.

With all due respect, the issue here is not "being able to get it done," but rather comfort and preference.

That said, since you know what you're talking about, please share; there is a lot of negativity in your post, but it also seems like you are saying that the Adjama (Sama) should be able to accommodate all of my racking needs. Can you share your organizational methods or any tricks that you use to keep things organized on your harness? Thank you.


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By Mark Mueller
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2012
Great quality rock on this one!

Bowens: One trick is to stack doubles, that is, if you have an multiple cams of the same size you can clip the extras to the first biner racked keeping your loops less crowded...


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Apr 25, 2012

I'm with John here. Mind you, I'll bet he uses a gear sling when he needs to bring the kitchen sink. Its true though, if a major factor in your general purpose cragging harness choice is whether or not you can hang in it for hours at a time, you need to pick your partners and routes better. Likewise if you need room for a triple set of cams, two sets of nuts, and a dozen slings but absolutely cannot climb with a gear sling.

I used to have a 5-loop harness, and I typically put my belay-device, the end of my anchor system (whatever it happened to be) and my rappel-backup cordage on that fifth loop. Now that I'm down to four loops (Petzl Corax), I don't really notice the difference.

I have a Misty Mountain Titan that I bought specifically for aid climbing, but I wouldn't dream of free climbing in it.


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By Bowens
From Carlsbad, CA
Apr 25, 2012
New Yosemite

johnL wrote:
I can't help you if you can't deal with a gear sling. In Eldo, I don't use one, I rack entirely on the harness because the pitches are short with very small gear. Most places though, you're going to have to learn to love your gear sling. They are a fact of life. The ideal gear sling is a 1" piece of sewn webbing. It doesn't bite in and it doesn't snag. Perfect. To get very specific, I carry a double set of cams green alien up to #1 camalot. That is sizes, not brands, it's a little mixed up. Then I have a single 2 and a single 3. If I know I need more in the hand size, I'll take more. My policy on OW's is to take as little as possible and sack up. This has bitten me in the ass exceptionally hard before but I stand by the premise. The only thing worse than climbing OW's is carrying gear for them. Make the second carry that shit if it ends up the route with you. This goes on the gear sling, smallest to largest. My nuts are split between two purple biners that exist nowhere else on my rack. Small on one, big on the other. For BD, I think it's hole in the middle vs no hole. Multiples of 4,5,6, 8, and 9 or so. I lose them and find others but that's about what I intend to have. Sometimes I mix RP's and ballnuts on the small rack, sometimes I take a dedicated biner (blue) with RP's and ballnuts. It depends on my mood and the route. These get racked on the front harness loops. The front harness loops also have about 10 extendable draws. Sometimes a few regular QD's to supplement, depending on the route. The two rear gear loops have a belay device, a loose couple biners, maybe an extra locker, maybe not. If I need a water bottle or descent shoes (shudder), they are also on the rear gear loops. If there it a tag line, it's on the loop in the back. The mini trax to haul the mini bag (metolious crag purse) is also back there if it's going to get used that day, and if it is, the shoes and water are there. A nuttool somewhere, if I remember to bring it. I have a highly compressible little windbreaker shoved into some pocket somewhere. Lately I climb in shorts or pants from either Goodwill or Ross, they all have a pocket somewhere. Aside from the tagline stuff, this isn't much different than a standard single pitch rack. Only take what you need and don't be afraid to run it out on perfect hands and stick them extra deep if they're wide. Remember, you only climb one pitch at a time, no need to rack more. This is just how it's done. If you don't like your gear sling or can't figure out how to keep it neat, get miles, it will get better. To this day I fucking struggle to shit with the rope management of all this BS. I don't have all the answers. To repeat my previous post though, 16 gear loops and 3/4" of padding is not the answer.


Thank you for sharing your system. Actually, that's almost identical to my current default multi pitch racking system. I use the front two harness loops for a ton of quickdraws, my nut tool, and my nuts organized on two carabiners ("big"= holes bored, "small"=no holes bored). I rack cams (about 12 cams), a few tricams, and 4 DMM hexes on my gear sling. I use my rear loops for everything else; anchor carabiners, belay device, cordelette, etc. Sometimes I put the tricams on my harness as well, and sometimes I put the nuts on the gear sling as well.

I'm fine climbing with a gear sling like this, and I like the organization that it allows me (I use one of the multi-loop metolius slings), but I find that sometimes it's really in the way; for instance, while slab climbing, I can't see my feet. Also, if I'm carrying a small pack, the gear sling can be a little more difficult to manage. I know that the obvious answer is to not wear a pack while leading, but for various reasons it is sometimes necessary and/or preferred. I appreciate everyone's harness suggestions, and I am going to explore them still, and I also appreciate the advice about racking styles and tips. Any advice for making a gear sling work better with a small leader pack?


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Apr 25, 2012

You can rig gear slings (double gear sling style) by tying cord from the sternum strap to some point on the pack pretty easily. I always just used an ultra-low-profile camelbak and threw the gear sling over top of it.


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