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Best Sunny LONG multipitch routes?
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By Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Nov 5, 2012
Ball Pass NZ

I get cold easily, especially belaying in the shade.
Any advice for sunny long multipitch climbs in RR now that the weather is getting colder? (trad or sport 400ft+ preferably)


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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 5, 2012
Third pillar of dana descent.

Plenty in oak creek canyon on solar slab. Lots of good stuff on brownstone wall south.


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By matt davies
Nov 5, 2012

Jubilant Song


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Nov 6, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

what grade range are you looking for?...there are approx 100 400'+ tall in the sun...


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By Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Nov 6, 2012
Ball Pass NZ

mostly within 5.10 range, but classic 5.9's, or low 5.11 range would definitely be considered.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Nov 6, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Check out the sticky in the Nevada section if you haven't already. Great resource without having to wait for answers. www.mountainproject.com/v/frequently-asked-red-rock-question>>>


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By Jason N.
From Grand Junction
Nov 6, 2012
Indy pass

I'm curious as well, particularly climbs that are outside of the recreation area itself (so I can bring my dog).


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Nov 6, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

This is my index page (sorted north to south, grade and # of pitches listed) of climbs I have personally climbed at Red Rock. Below are in the grade range you are looking for that are my favorites with full sun...I am in Cochise Stronghold as I type, middle of a cow pasture...and we have been way to hot in the sun this week. Last week I climbed a long route at RR, Celtic Cracks, climbing in shade with short sleeves for over 2000'.....so it is a bit warmer than normal for Nov. Good luck with your climbing.

Orange Clonus, 5.10d
Brass Balls, 5.10d
Spectrum, 5.11a
Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b
Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c
Sweet Thin, 5.9
Requiem for a Tad Pole, 5.9
Friedas Flake, 5.9
Beulah's Book, 5.9
Sundog, 5.10a
Sunflower, 5.9
Arch Enemy, 5.9
Solar Flare, 5.10c
Mountain Beast, 5.11a
Eagle Dance, 5.10c
Coltrane, 5.9
Hot Fudge Thursday, 5.9
Western Swing, 5.10b


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Nov 6, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

think it's supposed to snow the next few days... remember to let the rock dry


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By Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Nov 7, 2012
Ball Pass NZ

Thanks so much for all the recommendations!
Dow, was just at Cochise, what did you hop on?


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By smassey
From CO
Nov 7, 2012

Jason N. wrote:
I'm curious as well, particularly climbs that are outside of the recreation area itself (so I can bring my dog).

I'm guessing that by recreation area, you mean the scenic drive? Dogs are permitted in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Generally a good idea to have them leashed if there are other folks around, unless they're super chill. Generally poor form to leave them at the base of popular routes for 8 hrs (not meaning this as a comment directed at you personally), but some dogs are fine with that. Some of the less popular areas are great to take dogs, so long as they don't dig up the place and/or disturb the wildlife (Brass Wall and sometimes Solar Slab area have lots of bighorns hanging out). Heads up for the cacti though... Spent way too much time in RR picking spines out of paws...


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Nov 7, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

Caitlin MacMurtrie wrote:
Thanks so much for all the recommendations! Dow, was just at Cochise, what did you hop on?


Crackaholics, Mystery, Absinthe...moderate standard trad climbs on the west side...closest I ever been bitten by a rattlesnake in 20+ encounters happened yesterday..border patrol is all over this place...only folks we have seen other than one rancher dude who had two holstered revolvers, a 30/30 rifle sitting next to him...and an ammunition belt on his person...said "they" killed his dog....wild west shit out here


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By Caitlin Mac
From Tempe
Nov 9, 2012
Ball Pass NZ

Dow, it seems you climb many days of the year, am I right? How to you make time, or more importantly fund climbing this much? I am pretty young but have fallen in love with climbing and am trying to learn from people who make it a livable life.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Nov 9, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

Caitlin MacMurtrie wrote:
Dow, it seems you climb many days of the year, am I right? How to you make time, or more importantly fund climbing this much? I am pretty young but have fallen in love with climbing and am trying to learn from people who make it a livable life.


It is a long and personal story best told on an approach to a climb. I am always out and about in the desert somewhere this time of year.


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By cassondra
From las vegas, NV
Nov 9, 2012
in repose

That is a story I would really like to hear sometime.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Nov 9, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Dow Williams wrote:
Crackaholics, Mystery, Absinthe...moderate standard trad climbs on the west side...closest I ever been bitten by a rattlesnake in 20+ encounters happened yesterday..border patrol is all over this place...only folks we have seen other than one rancher dude who had two holstered revolvers, a 30/30 rifle sitting next to him...and an ammunition belt on his person...said "they" killed his dog....wild west shit out here


Damn, never seen any border patrol (or even a ranger) or any rattle snacks and I've been there almost a dozen times climbing in the canyons.


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Nov 9, 2012
Dow Williams, 2011

in fairness to the snake, I was descending the north side of Muttonhead...I advise the beaten path between Sheepshead where I sent my partner...I do things like that for beta publishing purposes...(looked like our (Moab) Pygmy Faded, but should not be that far south)first snake I have ever seen this late in the season anywhere--snakes hibernate

don't know what is normal for border patrol...German Shepard searched my rig, end to end, at a patrol stop just north of Tombstone...drove down Middlemarch once, camped, out once...both drives in and out, met border patrol going and coming...something going on I suppose.

rancher sounded a bit paranoid to me...was upset over a friend getting killed by drug runners on an atv in the last year?...and upset about his dog being shot...don't know if those are true stories or not...about a 70yr old gentlemen loaded to the gills, kind enough to give my partner a jump as I was already gone from the site

...we had all the climbs I mentioned above to ourselves, no other folks...I only ever climb in such places mid week though, so not uncommon, assume the east side gets more tourist traffic......I loved the peace and the camping.....interesting bolting ethics...running cows on that Gov lease is bs in today's world...but not here to argue either one of those topics...to each his/her own...not my local crag...Square Top one beautiful spot in the desert..enjoyed the color this time of year immensely...


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