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Best Slabs and "easy" ow's in the Wasatch?

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

If I didn't already have it, I've caught the slab bug this season. I've lead S-Direct on the thumb, Final Link on crescent crack buttress, and TR'd The Viewing on Coffin Buttress. Can someone recommend more fun/classic slab routes in the Wasatch? I'm comfortable leading 9's, and would like to start getting on 10's, preferably that have good or at least descent protection. I've looked at TRing Nob Job (10d X) on the thumb, and a couple routes on The Fin. Any recommendations, especially for well protected slabs or slabs that can TR'd through climbing a better protected crack or walking around?

I'm also getting more comfortable in wide terrain, looking to get on some 5.8 to 5.10 wide cracks and chimneys. I finally figured out the 5.7 way to do Crescent Crack and this leaves me wanting to become well rounded and increase my skills to the 5.10 range in wide stuff as well.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

Super Slab across from the LCC park and ride although you will have to wait a bit longer for it to dry out.

Jburton · · Ogden · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Spring Fever, Kermit's Wad, Punany, Barefoot in Barbados, many of the "Duck" routes on the Peeler, Pebbles and Bam Bam....all good slabs that are well protected.

Trevor · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 180

for some wide, head up to the Burner Buttress above Bongeater. if you need a partner, feel free to hit me up.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

Now that I think about it Tingey's Terror and Torture are mostly slab. Granted, only 5.8 but plenty of pitches.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Slabs:

western grebe to fools paradise finish on dark of the moon up on the south face for the black peeler.

Easy OW's ≤ 5.10:

2nd pitch of Variety Delight
School Room chimney variation
Goodros Nightmare to the last pitch of the Green A
lowe blow
S crack's last pitch

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

There is a slab route on the right of the last pitch of pentapitch that is pretty cool. Not sure of the name or rating

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
NickO wrote:There is a slab route on the right of the last pitch of pentapitch that is pretty cool. Not sure of the name or rating
Flashdance? Really hard, super thin pro or TR? 11c I think
Littlefoot is a good step-up for well protected slabs, it branches of Sasquatch, probably 11- on that smooth S side granite. If you're in the area there's Neuromancer, the 11a part is well protected. A bit further up canyon you'll get a run for your money on Endless Torment, not a pure slab but the friction moves are for real for 10b.
There are good slabs on the GWI, River's Edge / Evening Falls in the easy 10 range, Toe Shoes for a harder not so well protected adventure. Haven't done the others.
House of Cards has a spectacular slab pitch but getting to it is the gnar.

For the N side, since you've done Final Link (best 5.9 slab in the canyon IMO) try Multiplicity (10c, 50' down canyon from the start of Crescent).
Altered state gully has some slabby goodness but a lot of the climbing isn't all that well protected. Better stay down by Lizard Head, the Redneck Slab and Unknown Slabs are great 10s.
Further up, the new Thin Slab between Barefoot in Barbados and Comfort Zone is an ass-kicker at 11b/c but very well protected. There are other great line in Green A such as Dangling Participle and Prepositional Phrase (both 11-) that are not too terrifying, just plain hard.
At the gate, Cheetah (11b), Knobs to Gumbyland (10c), the Hook Direct (10c) and Mind Blow (10d) are all hard and scary but not scary where they're hard if that makes sense. You won't die when you pitch off.
As mentioned by others the Peeler is covered in good slabs.

Get after it!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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