Best shoes for slab climbing?

Im looking for a new pair of shoes and am wondering what most people like for slabs. I mostly climb looking glass and cedar rock, so what are some recomendations? I was looking at the mythos as an option.

Thanks
Photocodo

Mythos are prime slab shoes. I also like my TC pros, but think the mythos are superior.

mythos

Pretty much any comfortably sized slipper with a flat last...ie, not down-turned. Or Mythos...'bout the only thing they're good for IMO.

All depends on the TYPE of rock you'll be slabbing on. Some slabs are smear fest where flexible is the way to go. Others are pure micro edging and something that can hold on dimes is preferable. Then there's the always challenging a little of everything...

I tend to lean towards a comfortably fit edging shoe. I can usually get them to smear ok. A soft and floppy shoe won't do ANYTHING worth a damn when you really need it to edge well.

While not ready for a resole yet, I suspect my TC Pros with some C4 on them will be quite nice...

TC pros!

+1 for Mythos

Mythos!! They've gotten it done better than anything else I've tried. I usually climb to about 5.10 or so. Stone Mtn granite, Utah desert slab are favorite venues where they perform. I do agree that there are better shoes for micro-edging. I like the Miura for that.

5.10 moccasyns my go to slab shoe

As already mentioned, mythos or TC pros for here in the Carolina's. Personally I prefer the TC pro's for harder/edgy stuff and mythos for more pure (think stone mtn) slab.

I really like the Super Mocs for pure slab, but I go to the TC Pro if there is going to be edging.

Scarpa Technos worked really well for me. I used them for fairly steep bouldering too because the awesome heel system made heel hooks feel incredibly secure.

I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try.

I climb in 5.10 Coyotes that I have seen from $75-99 and they work well for me on all kinds of Trad climbs, slabs, etc. Love them and climb very well with them!

For places like LK and Looking GLass, Mythos.

If you are going to climb at Cedar alot and plan to get on the steeper, harder routes, a strong edger would be good...TC pro maybe. Miuras do well by me on steep granite.

I like my Katana Velcro.

I'm surprised that people say TC Pros for slab climbing, as they are a rather stiff shoe. I have a pair, and although they are a good all-arounder, including slab, they don't smear as well as a softer shoe. YMMV.

Soft shoes are great for pure friction slab, which you can find at many areas in NC, but they aren't versatile enough for me. It took me a while to realize this, but I finally figured out that a comfortably sized pair of stiff(ish) shoes works much better in most granite and/or slabby areas where edging and jamming are almost always needed at some point.

With the exception of severely overhung routes, I climb everything in NC in one of the following:
- Five Ten Galileo size 43
- Five Ten Galileo size 44

Brad Caldwell wrote:I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try.

I've been pretty surprised at how good TC Pros are at slab and smearing. Yes they are stiff, but you figure out pretty quick how to smear with the the toe rather than the than with more of the fore foot as in softer shoes. I guess maybe the stiffness concentrates the force more in a smaller area. Plus it is nice on granite climbs to be able to switch back to solid edging when necessary.

Others on MP have suggested that new Stoneland slippers and velcro models are great smearing slab shoes. I'm curious if any slab aficionados have tried these?

They better be good because they look ridiculous.

Jim

Get what fits best and isn't super down turned.

mythos fer shur. they definitely paste down the most square inches of rubber.

muiras (like the TC pro) are good slab performers as well, if not more precise for harder edging.