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Best shoes for slab climbing?
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Apr 24, 2013
The "crack"
Im looking for a new pair of shoes and am wondering what most people like for slabs. I mostly climb looking glass and cedar rock, so what are some recomendations? I was looking at the mythos as an option.

Thanks
Photocodo
photocodo
From Hendersonville, NC
Joined May 15, 2012
123 points
Apr 24, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
Mythos are prime slab shoes. I also like my TC pros, but think the mythos are superior. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
592 points
Apr 24, 2013
mythos sarcasm
Joined May 22, 2010
458 points
Apr 24, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
Pretty much any comfortably sized slipper with a flat last...ie, not down-turned. Or Mythos...'bout the only thing they're good for IMO. csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Apr 24, 2013
Grande Grotto
All depends on the TYPE of rock you'll be slabbing on. Some slabs are smear fest where flexible is the way to go. Others are pure micro edging and something that can hold on dimes is preferable. Then there's the always challenging a little of everything...

I tend to lean towards a comfortably fit edging shoe. I can usually get them to smear ok. A soft and floppy shoe won't do ANYTHING worth a damn when you really need it to edge well.

While not ready for a resole yet, I suspect my TC Pros with some C4 on them will be quite nice...
mattm
From TX
Joined Jun 2, 2006
1,238 points
Apr 24, 2013
Imaginate
TC pros!

Birds of Fire goodness.
Birds of Fire goodness.
David Appelhans
From Medford, MA
Joined Nov 11, 2007
350 points
Apr 24, 2013
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+1 for Mythos Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Joined Nov 23, 2012
10 points
Apr 24, 2013
Self portrait on the summit of Gray's Peak, CO
Mythos!! They've gotten it done better than anything else I've tried. I usually climb to about 5.10 or so. Stone Mtn granite, Utah desert slab are favorite venues where they perform. I do agree that there are better shoes for micro-edging. I like the Miura for that. Walt Barker
From Reno NV
Joined Dec 16, 2010
322 points
Apr 24, 2013
The Nose from the road
5.10 Warhawks Mike Mu.
Joined Feb 15, 2007
81 points
Apr 24, 2013
Skull cave, Rifle, CO  awesome shot nate!
5.10 moccasyns my go to slab shoe ptrgeorge
From Houston, TX
Joined Sep 18, 2011
746 points
Apr 24, 2013
Just a few more moves... Thanks to Eric for hangin...
As already mentioned, mythos or TC pros for here in the Carolina's. Personally I prefer the TC pro's for harder/edgy stuff and mythos for more pure (think stone mtn) slab. nbrown
From western NC
Joined Nov 6, 2007
5,039 points
Apr 24, 2013
me on my redpoint
TC Pro Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Apr 24, 2013
I really like the Super Mocs for pure slab, but I go to the TC Pro if there is going to be edging. Kiley B
Joined Sep 22, 2009
1 points
Apr 24, 2013
Love me some Sportiva Nagos. Blood red foot looks badass after you sweat in them for the first year. Jordan Scampoli
From Boulder
Joined May 10, 2011
0 points
Apr 24, 2013
Pit BBQ
Scarpa Technos worked really well for me. I used them for fairly steep bouldering too because the awesome heel system made heel hooks feel incredibly secure. Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
138 points
Apr 25, 2013
I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try. Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Joined May 22, 2010
1,365 points
Apr 25, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
I climb in 5.10 Coyotes that I have seen from $75-99 and they work well for me on all kinds of Trad climbs, slabs, etc. Love them and climb very well with them! NYClimber
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
180 points
Apr 25, 2013
Stray dog found in rural Alabama w severe mange. T...
For places like LK and Looking GLass, Mythos.

If you are going to climb at Cedar alot and plan to get on the steeper, harder routes, a strong edger would be good...TC pro maybe. Miuras do well by me on steep granite.
BHMBen
From The Briar Patch
Joined Jan 12, 2007
1,530 points
Apr 25, 2013
I like my Katana Velcro.

I'm surprised that people say TC Pros for slab climbing, as they are a rather stiff shoe. I have a pair, and although they are a good all-arounder, including slab, they don't smear as well as a softer shoe. YMMV.
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
130 points
Administrator
Apr 25, 2013
El Chorro
Soft shoes are great for pure friction slab, which you can find at many areas in NC, but they aren't versatile enough for me. It took me a while to realize this, but I finally figured out that a comfortably sized pair of stiff(ish) shoes works much better in most granite and/or slabby areas where edging and jamming are almost always needed at some point.

With the exception of severely overhung routes, I climb everything in NC in one of the following:
- Five Ten Galileo size 43
- Five Ten Galileo size 44
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Apr 25, 2013
Gunking
Brad Caldwell wrote:
I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try.


I just recently switched to super tight 5.10 quantums for hard slab. They are pretty sweet.
JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
673 points
Apr 25, 2013
I've been pretty surprised at how good TC Pros are at slab and smearing. Yes they are stiff, but you figure out pretty quick how to smear with the the toe rather than the than with more of the fore foot as in softer shoes. I guess maybe the stiffness concentrates the force more in a smaller area. Plus it is nice on granite climbs to be able to switch back to solid edging when necessary.

Others on MP have suggested that new Stoneland slippers and velcro models are great smearing slab shoes. I'm curious if any slab aficionados have tried these?

They better be good because they look ridiculous.

Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,732 points
Apr 25, 2013
Get what fits best and isn't super down turned. Frailer
Joined Apr 4, 2011
456 points
Apr 25, 2013
mythos fer shur. they definitely paste down the most square inches of rubber.

muiras (like the TC pro) are good slab performers as well, if not more precise for harder edging.
EQueezy
Joined Apr 25, 2013
22 points
Apr 25, 2013
busch cat
My 5.10 Anasazis are great for slab - not too stiff for heel-down smearing, and not to soft for micro-edging. Plus they're solid in cracks and on faces. They're definitely my go to for anything with a pitch of slab. HankG
Joined Oct 2, 2010
110 points
Apr 25, 2013
mexico
Solutions. Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Jan 1, 2001
991 points


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