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Best shoes for slab climbing?
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By photocodo
From Hendersonville, NC
Apr 24, 2013
The "crack"

Im looking for a new pair of shoes and am wondering what most people like for slabs. I mostly climb looking glass and cedar rock, so what are some recomendations? I was looking at the mythos as an option.

Thanks
Photocodo


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2013
The route in it's entirety.

Mythos are prime slab shoes. I also like my TC pros, but think the mythos are superior.


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By drmartindell
From Homer, Ak
Apr 24, 2013

mythos


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Apr 24, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Pretty much any comfortably sized slipper with a flat last...ie, not down-turned. Or Mythos...'bout the only thing they're good for IMO.


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By mattm
From TX
Apr 24, 2013
Grande Grotto

All depends on the TYPE of rock you'll be slabbing on. Some slabs are smear fest where flexible is the way to go. Others are pure micro edging and something that can hold on dimes is preferable. Then there's the always challenging a little of everything...

I tend to lean towards a comfortably fit edging shoe. I can usually get them to smear ok. A soft and floppy shoe won't do ANYTHING worth a damn when you really need it to edge well.

While not ready for a resole yet, I suspect my TC Pros with some C4 on them will be quite nice...


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Apr 24, 2013
Imaginate

TC pros!

Birds of Fire goodness.
Birds of Fire goodness.


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By Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Apr 24, 2013
Profile Icon

+1 for Mythos


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By Walt Barker
From AZ
Apr 24, 2013
Self portrait on the summit of Gray's Peak, CO

Mythos!! They've gotten it done better than anything else I've tried. I usually climb to about 5.10 or so. Stone Mtn granite, Utah desert slab are favorite venues where they perform. I do agree that there are better shoes for micro-edging. I like the Miura for that.


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By Mike Mu.
Apr 24, 2013
The Nose from the road

5.10 Warhawks


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By ptrgeorge
From Houston, TX
Apr 24, 2013
Skull cave, Rifle, CO <br /> <br />awesome shot nate!

5.10 moccasyns my go to slab shoe


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By nbrown
From western NC
Apr 24, 2013
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

As already mentioned, mythos or TC pros for here in the Carolina's. Personally I prefer the TC pro's for harder/edgy stuff and mythos for more pure (think stone mtn) slab.


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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Apr 24, 2013
me on my redpoint

TC Pro


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By Kiley B
Apr 24, 2013

I really like the Super Mocs for pure slab, but I go to the TC Pro if there is going to be edging.


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By Jordan Scampoli
From Boulder
Apr 24, 2013

Love me some Sportiva Nagos. Blood red foot looks badass after you sweat in them for the first year.


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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Apr 24, 2013
Pit BBQ

Scarpa Technos worked really well for me. I used them for fairly steep bouldering too because the awesome heel system made heel hooks feel incredibly secure.


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Apr 25, 2013

I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 25, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

I climb in 5.10 Coyotes that I have seen from $75-99 and they work well for me on all kinds of Trad climbs, slabs, etc. Love them and climb very well with them!


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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
Apr 25, 2013
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en bawn in a brier-patch!'

For places like LK and Looking GLass, Mythos.

If you are going to climb at Cedar alot and plan to get on the steeper, harder routes, a strong edger would be good...TC pro maybe. Miuras do well by me on steep granite.


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Apr 25, 2013

I like my Katana Velcro.

I'm surprised that people say TC Pros for slab climbing, as they are a rather stiff shoe. I have a pair, and although they are a good all-arounder, including slab, they don't smear as well as a softer shoe. YMMV.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 25, 2013
El Chorro

Soft shoes are great for pure friction slab, which you can find at many areas in NC, but they aren't versatile enough for me. It took me a while to realize this, but I finally figured out that a comfortably sized pair of stiff(ish) shoes works much better in most granite and/or slabby areas where edging and jamming are almost always needed at some point.

With the exception of severely overhung routes, I climb everything in NC in one of the following:
- Five Ten Galileo size 43
- Five Ten Galileo size 44


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Apr 25, 2013
Gunking

Brad Caldwell wrote:
I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try.


I just recently switched to super tight 5.10 quantums for hard slab. They are pretty sweet.


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By jim.dangle
Apr 25, 2013

I've been pretty surprised at how good TC Pros are at slab and smearing. Yes they are stiff, but you figure out pretty quick how to smear with the the toe rather than the than with more of the fore foot as in softer shoes. I guess maybe the stiffness concentrates the force more in a smaller area. Plus it is nice on granite climbs to be able to switch back to solid edging when necessary.

Others on MP have suggested that new Stoneland slippers and velcro models are great smearing slab shoes. I'm curious if any slab aficionados have tried these?

They better be good because they look ridiculous.

Jim


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By DanP
From Georgia
Apr 25, 2013
-

Get what fits best and isn't super down turned.


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By EQueezy
Apr 25, 2013

mythos fer shur. they definitely paste down the most square inches of rubber.

muiras (like the TC pro) are good slab performers as well, if not more precise for harder edging.


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By Tank
Apr 25, 2013

My 5.10 Anasazis are great for slab - not too stiff for heel-down smearing, and not to soft for micro-edging. Plus they're solid in cracks and on faces. They're definitely my go to for anything with a pitch of slab.


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By Patrick Vernon
From Albuquerque, NM
Apr 25, 2013
mexico

Solutions.


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