Mountain Project Logo

Best self-rescue tips for aid and big wall (or anything else)

Original Post
DBarton · · CENTENNIAL, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 105

I have been climbing for about 10 years (sport, trad) and have a few tricks up my sleeve. Nonetheless, I want to get into aid and big wall climbing and was curious to know what sorts of self-rescue knowledge there was to be had.

What have you used? What is essential to know? What do you wish you knew when shit hit the fan.

ROC · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 155

This website has some really good resources for basic self-rescue:

guidetricksforclimbers.com/

I would recommend checking out their first video, "Avoiding the Touch". This will give you the basic skills you can then use for more advanced self-rescue scenarios. I wouldn't bother with the second video, "Moving Faster" as it should be more aptly named, "Bailing Faster".

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

If you learn the basics of bigwalling, you will be ahead of the game compared to most multi-pitch trad climbers. Learning to rap/lower with a heavy bag, haul, jug on improvised systems; all thing that you may need to do when bigwalling, and things that translate well to self-rescue. Also, when aiding, you will most likely have all sorts of extra gear useful in a self-rescue scenario (ascenders, hauler, pulley...). So learn the basics of normal aiding. Practice treating that heavy haul bag as if it were your injured partner and figure out ways to get it back to the ground without carrying it or throwing it.

Chad Namolik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 2,905

Climbing Self-Rescue. improvising solutions for serious situations
By Andy Tyson & Molly Loomis
(the Mountaineers Books)

Is a great read

J P · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 20
Chad Namolik wrote:Climbing Self-Rescue. improvising solutions for serious situations By Andy Tyson & Molly Loomis (the Mountaineers Books) Is a great read
I would second the recommendation for this book. Lots of practical techniques that you can practice on the ground.

There's another book published by Falcon guides that I haven't had a chance to check out yet. Does anyone else have experience with the info in the self rescue book by David Fasulo?
Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

Like others have said, learn how to manage and rappel with a pig:

1)learn how to ride the pig. There are a number of variations, one is to rig the rap device and have yourself and the pig attached to the common point with their own extension tethers. Important skill to know whether you're bailing, or just coming down the East Ledges descent.

2)Learn how to dock the pig with a munter mule on the lower-out line. Once you've got that down, you'll never be in a situation where you have to lift the pig in order to unclip a biner. Really important skill.

3)Using 2 biners with your rap device, instead of 1, will increase the friction and make it a lot easier to control the rap with the added weight of the pig. I also like do this on any rap that is anything less than super simple.

4)If rapping an overhanging route with a pig:
a. The first guy (down-leader) places directional pieces as he single-rope raps.
b. meanwhile, the 2nd lowers the bag on the haul line, with the lower-out line attached to the down-leader. Consider using a break-away attachment, so in case the 2nd (who might be injured/compromised, and the reason you're bailing) loses control of the lowering, the pig doesn't yank the down-leader to their doom.
c. when the down-leader gets to the next anchor, reel in the lower-out line and dock the bag.
d. The 2nd re-rigs the single-rope rap into a double rope rap, the 1st pulls the lead-line taunt, and the 2nd raps and cleans the pitch.
e. rinse and repeat.

5)If rapping a roof, it's very similar to (4), but the down-leader might have to down-aid the roof, and jug back up to clean the roof before the 2nd comes down.

DBarton · · CENTENNIAL, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 105

This is all great advice, Thanks! Keep it coming!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Injuries and Accidents
Post a Reply to "Best self-rescue tips for aid and big wall (or…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.