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Mar 7, 2011
me climbing at lost horizon, NH
out of the four options below which would you say is the best rubber to get your shoes resoled with? i am going to be resoleing my solutions and the solutions use a 4mm La sportiva XS grip rubber. but does anyone know which of these rubbers perform best on granite.
4mm La Sportiva XS Edge
5mm La Sportiva XS Edge
4 mm Five Ten C4
4 mm Onyx

thanks
patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Joined Mar 15, 2010
418 points
Mar 7, 2011
Mint jullop
My experience is C4. It holds up really well and stays sticky till the end. Onyx is stickier but wears out really fast on granite. Way better for sandstone or smoother rock. Rock and Resole just resoled my Dragons and even after a toe patch they perform extremely well. Great professional work and fast turnaround. thomas ellis
From abq
Joined Oct 12, 2009
1,652 points
Mar 7, 2011
For a soft, downturned shoe like that, there's a reason they had XS Grip on there in the first place. Closest thing to replicate it in your list is C4, the others will be harder and less sticky, but more durable adn would edge better. The vibram "edge" compounds were specifically designed to resist plastic deformation, thus being stiff enough for small edging. Onyxx is harder and more durable than C4, despite the bad info you were given above. Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,219 points
Mar 7, 2011
Mint jullop
I am not sure why you say the info is bad when I have had ten pairs of shoes with Onyx and they wear out fast on granite. They hold up well on sandstone. C4 lasts longer for me on granite. Just my experience. Not good or bad. thomas ellis
From abq
Joined Oct 12, 2009
1,652 points
Mar 7, 2011
patrick donahue wrote:
out of the four options below which would you say is the best rubber to get your shoes resoled with? i am going to be resoleing my solutions and the solutions use a 4mm La sportiva XS grip rubber. but does anyone know which of these rubbers perform best on granite. 4mm La Sportiva XS Edge 5mm La Sportiva XS Edge 4 mm Five Ten C4 4 mm Onyx thanks



I've heard that if you contact Five Ten directly you can purchase sole's for resoling for their other rubbers such as HF and Mystique, in case that interests you.
G McG
From Victoria, BC
Joined Dec 6, 2010
1 points
Mar 7, 2011
me climbing at lost horizon, NH
ya i was thinking of doing that with one of my other pairs of shoes but not for my solutions patrick donahue
From Gunnison, Colorado
Joined Mar 15, 2010
418 points
Mar 7, 2011
Ellis: Vedauwoo and Glacier Point Apron are both granite, Indian Creek and Sunset, TN are both sandstone, how would you rank these in order of rubber-wear?

Generic statements (granite v sandstone) can be so generic as to be completely meaningless.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,219 points
Mar 7, 2011
Mint jullop
You make a point and I had thought of pointing out the difference between Jtree exfoliating big crystal crappy granite and say...Yosemite but felt it might seem redundant. I guess I was wrong. NOT TOUGH ON ANY OLD GRANITE JUST THE CORSE ROUGH GRANITE FOUND IN MANY PARTS OF THE STATES AS WELL AS SHARP BASALT OR ANY OF THE POINTIER SHARPER VOLCANIC STONES. LETS NOT FORGET ABOUT SUPER SHARP LIMESTONE LIKE YOU FIND IN THE DESERT OR NEAR THE OCEAN. SORRY WILLS I SHOULD HAVE BEEN VERY SPECIFIC BEFORE RESPONDING. Few, caps get old. I thought using a simple example of a standard corse material to a soft one would make an easy visual reference but man was I wrong. Sorry Patrick if I lead you to a disastrous choice in shoe rubber. thomas ellis
From abq
Joined Oct 12, 2009
1,652 points
 
Mar 8, 2011
I've found the rubber that works best for me is Magnums.
Hey-oh!!
bdboulder
From Eldorado
Joined Oct 11, 2006
127 points
Mar 9, 2011
Nice view
I like 5.10 shoes rubber (stealth) and what Scarpa puts on their shoes (vibram something) very sticky! Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Joined Feb 22, 2010
1,933 points
Mar 9, 2011
Think it'll go?
Bob Dergay wrote:
I've found the rubber that works best for me is Magnums. Hey-oh!!


+1!

C4
chris deulen
From Merriam, Kansas
Joined Jul 1, 2004
1,897 points
Nov 2, 2011
Which way again?
Just wanted to correct the assertion above that fiveten will sell HF, Mystique, etc rubber to you for resoling. Not happening. I've contacted them by email several times over the years-happen to think the HF is ridiculously great, but good luck getting your hands on some. Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jan 9, 2013
portrait
Go with the C4 or Vibram xs Grip 2. The xs edge sucks, it is too insensitive, stiff and smears about as good as balogna skins on snow. Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Joined Jun 25, 2008
453 points
Jan 9, 2013
Had my solutions done with c4 at rock and resole. They've climbed better (for longer) since the resole than they did out of the box brand new. vibram is junk. frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jan 9, 2013
black nasty
Trojan rubber is the best!
I really like how the feeling transfers through
Cor
Joined Mar 6, 2006
1,169 points
Jan 9, 2013
its amazing how some of the best climbers in the world can climb the hardest footwork/smeary/edgy climbs on vibram edge ...

yet MPers insist its junk ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
 
Jan 9, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
its amazing how some of the best climbers in the world can climb the hardest footwork/smeary/edgy climbs on vibram edge ... yet MPers insist its junk ;)


...and people used to ride the tour de france on 3 speed bicycles.

The topic was "best rubber" not "passable rubber"

I need as big of an advantage as I can get to send my projects, if I was superhuman I think I'd worry less about what rubber I was using and more about where to find robust enough underoos to contain my formidable hangdown.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jan 9, 2013
frankstoneline wrote:
The topic was "best rubber" not "passable rubber"

There is no "best rubber". There maybe the best rubber for a particular route, under a particular condition, on a particular model of shoes, for a particular climber. Even then there maybe practical considerations like durability.
reboot
From Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 17, 2006
143 points
Jan 10, 2013
frankstoneline wrote:
...and people used to ride the tour de france on 3 speed bicycles. The topic was "best rubber" not "passable rubber" I need as big of an advantage as I can get to send my projects, if I was superhuman I think I'd worry less about what rubber I was using and more about where to find robust enough underoos to contain my formidable hangdown.


tommy caldwell on 5.14- smeary foot layback .... using shoes with vibram edge


but dont worry .... im sure you can climb sooooo much better than him ... maybe you should let him know that if he stops using those shoes, hell send the dawn wall ... or youll send it for him

god i luuuuuuv MPers ;)

bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
Jan 10, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
tommy caldwell on 5.14- smeary foot layback .... using shoes with vibram edge but dont worry .... im sure you can climb sooooo much better than him ... maybe you should let him know that if he stops using those shoes, hell send the dawn wall ... or youll send it for him god i luuuuuuv MPers ;)


like I said, I need every advantage I can get to send.
also, I assume TC and others get their shoes from a sponsor, I don't, thus when I buy shoes/resole I've developed a preference. Having spent a considerable amount of time climbing on granite, in solutions (both with vibram rubber and resoled with C4) I felt like I should respond to the OP with my opinions on rubber.

A lot of incredible climbers use vibram rubber, that doesnt mean it's the best, it just means it's on the shoes their sponsors send them.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jan 10, 2013
OTL
The best rubber is the one having the most fun. Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
338 points
Jan 10, 2013
frankstoneline wrote:
like I said, I need every advantage I can get to send. also, I assume TC and others get their shoes from a sponsor, I don't, thus when I buy shoes/resole I've developed a preference. Having spent a considerable amount of time climbing on granite, in solutions (both with vibram rubber and resoled with C4) I felt like I should respond to the OP with my opinions on rubber. A lot of incredible climbers use vibram rubber, that doesnt mean it's the best, it just means it's on the shoes their sponsors send them.


no one is saying its the "best"

but the statement "vibram is junk" that you made simply isnt true ...

many climbers who use it over and over again on the hardest and and climbs where you cant make mistakes show it ...

just because YOU dont prefer it doesnt mean its "junk"

theres a certain big wall soloer out there .... can you guess what rubber he depends on not to pop off and die when hes thousands of feet off the deck ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
Jan 10, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
no one is saying its the "best" but the statement "vibram is junk" that you made simply isnt true ... many climbers who use it over and over again on the hardest and and climbs where you cant make mistakes show it ... just because YOU dont prefer it doesnt mean its "junk" theres a certain big wall soloer out there .... can you guess what rubber he depends on not to pop off and die when hes thousands of feet off the deck ;)


right, so then let me amend my statement so as to not offend.

In my experience, using the La Sportiva Solution performance climbing shoe in a variety of granite applications, both sport climbing and bouldering, with both C4 stealth soles and the Vibram soles they came with out of the box, I found the performance of the C4 sole to be far superior to that of the original sole. Being that La Sportiva produces high quality shoes, I doubt this shift in performance was due to the original sole installation quality, though the re-sole job by by Rock and Resole of boulder was of the highest quality. In addition, I have had similar experiences with several other pairs of La Sportiva shoes as well as several pairs of Scarpa shoes (which also emplot the rubber of Vibram), thus, in my humble opinion, the original poster of this thread should have his La Sportiva Solution performance climbing boot re-soled with C4 stealth climbing rubber, rather than any of the Vibram options for full value granite use. This may also be projected to various other granite-like rocks, and in fact my recommendation would hold true for all stone types.

I did not, literally, mean that rubber produced by the great Vibram rubber corporation is refuse and should be relegated to waste disposal facilities the world over, however apparently my intentions were lost in the inability of some internet members to interpret true meaning from general statements. Apparently brevity isn't valued by everyone.

My sincerest apologies to the Vibram rubber smelting conglomerate for any confusion, and I hope they drop the lawsuit against me for slander ASAP so as to avoid unnecessary legal costs.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jan 10, 2013
frankstoneline wrote:
I did not, literally, mean that rubber produced by the great Vibram rubber corporation is refuse and should be relegated to waste disposal facilities the world over, however apparently my intentions were lost in the inability of some internet members to interpret true meaning from general statements. Apparently brevity isn't valued by everyone. My sincerest apologies to the Vibram rubber smelting conglomerate for any confusion, and I hope they drop the lawsuit against me for slander ASAP so as to avoid unnecessary legal costs.


"vibram is junk"

it was pretty easy to interpret your true meaning

im personally not a fan of the c4 rubber .... but then i dont go saying "c4 is junk" ;)

its the man that make the difference, the rubber is a matter of personal preference ...

thats whuddah she said anyways =P
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
 
Jan 10, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
its the man that make the difference, the rubber is a matter of personal preference ... thats whuddah she said anyways =P


amen to that.

my true meaning was most certainly simply that I like the c4 better, but there is really no need to continue to argue over semantics haha
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Jan 10, 2013
At the BRC
frankstoneline wrote:
right, so then let me amend my statement so as to not offend. In my experience, using the La Sportiva Solution performance climbing shoe in a variety of granite applications, both sport climbing and bouldering, with both C4 stealth soles and the Vibram soles they came with out of the box, I found the performance of the C4 sole to be far superior to that of the original sole. Being that La Sportiva produces high quality shoes, I doubt this shift in performance was due to the original sole installation quality, though the re-sole job by by Rock and Resole of boulder was of the highest quality. In addition, I have had similar experiences with several other pairs of La Sportiva shoes as well as several pairs of Scarpa shoes (which also emplot the rubber of Vibram), thus, in my humble opinion, the original poster of this thread should have his La Sportiva Solution performance climbing boot re-soled with C4 stealth climbing rubber, rather than any of the Vibram options for full value granite use. This may also be projected to various other granite-like rocks, and in fact my recommendation would hold true for all stone types. I did not, literally, mean that rubber produced by the great Vibram rubber corporation is refuse and should be relegated to waste disposal facilities the world over, however apparently my intentions were lost in the inability of some internet members to interpret true meaning from general statements. Apparently brevity isn't valued by everyone. My sincerest apologies to the Vibram rubber smelting conglomerate for any confusion, and I hope they drop the lawsuit against me for slander ASAP so as to avoid unnecessary legal costs.


I thought this was pretty funny.

You're not THE Mr Stone are you?
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points


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