best rubber

out of the four options below which would you say is the best rubber to get your shoes resoled with? i am going to be resoleing my solutions and the solutions use a 4mm La sportiva XS grip rubber. but does anyone know which of these rubbers perform best on granite.
4mm La Sportiva XS Edge
5mm La Sportiva XS Edge
4 mm Five Ten C4
4 mm Onyx

thanks

My experience is C4. It holds up really well and stays sticky till the end. Onyx is stickier but wears out really fast on granite. Way better for sandstone or smoother rock. Rock and Resole just resoled my Dragons and even after a toe patch they perform extremely well. Great professional work and fast turnaround.

For a soft, downturned shoe like that, there's a reason they had XS Grip on there in the first place. Closest thing to replicate it in your list is C4, the others will be harder and less sticky, but more durable adn would edge better. The vibram "edge" compounds were specifically designed to resist plastic deformation, thus being stiff enough for small edging. Onyxx is harder and more durable than C4, despite the bad info you were given above.

I am not sure why you say the info is bad when I have had ten pairs of shoes with Onyx and they wear out fast on granite. They hold up well on sandstone. C4 lasts longer for me on granite. Just my experience. Not good or bad.

patrick donahue wrote:out of the four options below which would you say is the best rubber to get your shoes resoled with? i am going to be resoleing my solutions and the solutions use a 4mm La sportiva XS grip rubber. but does anyone know which of these rubbers perform best on granite. 4mm La Sportiva XS Edge 5mm La Sportiva XS Edge 4 mm Five Ten C4 4 mm Onyx thanks

I've heard that if you contact Five Ten directly you can purchase sole's for resoling for their other rubbers such as HF and Mystique, in case that interests you.

ya i was thinking of doing that with one of my other pairs of shoes but not for my solutions

Ellis: Vedauwoo and Glacier Point Apron are both granite, Indian Creek and Sunset, TN are both sandstone, how would you rank these in order of rubber-wear?

Generic statements (granite v sandstone) can be so generic as to be completely meaningless.

You make a point and I had thought of pointing out the difference between Jtree exfoliating big crystal crappy granite and say...Yosemite but felt it might seem redundant. I guess I was wrong. NOT TOUGH ON ANY OLD GRANITE JUST THE CORSE ROUGH GRANITE FOUND IN MANY PARTS OF THE STATES AS WELL AS SHARP BASALT OR ANY OF THE POINTIER SHARPER VOLCANIC STONES. LETS NOT FORGET ABOUT SUPER SHARP LIMESTONE LIKE YOU FIND IN THE DESERT OR NEAR THE OCEAN. SORRY WILLS I SHOULD HAVE BEEN VERY SPECIFIC BEFORE RESPONDING. Few, caps get old. I thought using a simple example of a standard corse material to a soft one would make an easy visual reference but man was I wrong. Sorry Patrick if I lead you to a disastrous choice in shoe rubber.

I've found the rubber that works best for me is Magnums.
Hey-oh!!

I like 5.10 shoes rubber (stealth) and what Scarpa puts on their shoes (vibram something) very sticky!

Bob Dergay wrote:I've found the rubber that works best for me is Magnums. Hey-oh!!

+1!

C4

Go with the C4 or Vibram xs Grip 2. The xs edge sucks, it is too insensitive, stiff and smears about as good as balogna skins on snow.

Had my solutions done with c4 at rock and resole. They've climbed better (for longer) since the resole than they did out of the box brand new. vibram is junk.

Trojan rubber is the best!
I really like how the feeling transfers through

its amazing how some of the best climbers in the world can climb the hardest footwork/smeary/edgy climbs on vibram edge ...

yet MPers insist its junk ;)

bearbreeder wrote:its amazing how some of the best climbers in the world can climb the hardest footwork/smeary/edgy climbs on vibram edge ... yet MPers insist its junk ;)

...and people used to ride the tour de france on 3 speed bicycles.

The topic was "best rubber" not "passable rubber"

I need as big of an advantage as I can get to send my projects, if I was superhuman I think I'd worry less about what rubber I was using and more about where to find robust enough underoos to contain my formidable hangdown.

frankstoneline wrote: The topic was "best rubber" not "passable rubber"

There is no "best rubber". There maybe the best rubber for a particular route, under a particular condition, on a particular model of shoes, for a particular climber. Even then there maybe practical considerations like durability.

frankstoneline wrote: ...and people used to ride the tour de france on 3 speed bicycles. The topic was "best rubber" not "passable rubber" I need as big of an advantage as I can get to send my projects, if I was superhuman I think I'd worry less about what rubber I was using and more about where to find robust enough underoos to contain my formidable hangdown.

tommy caldwell on 5.14- smeary foot layback .... using shoes with vibram edge

but dont worry .... im sure you can climb sooooo much better than him ... maybe you should let him know that if he stops using those shoes, hell send the dawn wall ... or youll send it for him

god i luuuuuuv MPers ;)

bearbreeder wrote: tommy caldwell on 5.14- smeary foot layback .... using shoes with vibram edge but dont worry .... im sure you can climb sooooo much better than him ... maybe you should let him know that if he stops using those shoes, hell send the dawn wall ... or youll send it for him god i luuuuuuv MPers ;)

like I said, I need every advantage I can get to send.
also, I assume TC and others get their shoes from a sponsor, I don't, thus when I buy shoes/resole I've developed a preference. Having spent a considerable amount of time climbing on granite, in solutions (both with vibram rubber and resoled with C4) I felt like I should respond to the OP with my opinions on rubber.

A lot of incredible climbers use vibram rubber, that doesnt mean it's the best, it just means it's on the shoes their sponsors send them.

The best rubber is the one having the most fun.

frankstoneline wrote: like I said, I need every advantage I can get to send. also, I assume TC and others get their shoes from a sponsor, I don't, thus when I buy shoes/resole I've developed a preference. Having spent a considerable amount of time climbing on granite, in solutions (both with vibram rubber and resoled with C4) I felt like I should respond to the OP with my opinions on rubber. A lot of incredible climbers use vibram rubber, that doesnt mean it's the best, it just means it's on the shoes their sponsors send them.

no one is saying its the "best"

but the statement "vibram is junk" that you made simply isnt true ...

many climbers who use it over and over again on the hardest and and climbs where you cant make mistakes show it ...

just because YOU dont prefer it doesnt mean its "junk"

theres a certain big wall soloer out there .... can you guess what rubber he depends on not to pop off and die when hes thousands of feet off the deck ;)