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Best Rock Climbing Area Camping?

Original Post
jmapping · · Carbondale, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 766

I saw this link to an article about the best camping spots for America's climbing areas. I can't help but notice this is a very limited list. There are so many good climbing areas with great camping. Anyone got any favorites?

My list:
Turkey Rocks (CO)
Shelf Road (CO)
City of Rocks (ID)
Indian Creek (UT)
Enchanted Tower (NM)
Leavenworth (WA)

Andrew Shoemaker · · Olympia, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 265
Wombat wrote:I saw this link to an article about the best camping spots for America's climbing areas. I can't help but notice this is a very limited list. There are so many good climbing areas with great camping. Anyone got any favorites? My list: Turkey Rocks (CO) City of Rocks (CO) Shelf Road (CO) Indian Creek (UT) Enchanted Tower (NM) Leavenworth (WA)
New River Gorge (WV)
Banks Lake (Wa)
Andrew Shoemaker · · Olympia, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 265

And, btw, City of Rocks is in Idaho not Colorado

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Lime Creek needs to be on the list. The camping is better than the climbing.

T. William · · Avon · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 80
Mike Lane wrote:Lime Creek needs to be on the list. The camping is better than the climbing.
+1.
Mike, have you been out there yet this season? I've been meaning to take a drive out.

I'd like to add Unaweep, the "non private" land left off the divide road is quite a pleasent spot to camp.
Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Not sure what the criteria is but I love 11 mile canyon. If you like to fish it can't be beat. Great hiking. You will not be alone however

jmapping · · Carbondale, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 766
Andrew Shoemaker wrote:And, btw, City of Rocks is in Idaho not Colorado
Good catch.
jmapping · · Carbondale, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 766
Rick Blair wrote:Not sure what the criteria is...
Good point. The article broke it down into a couple categories. My choices were for all around good time. However, if I were to be more specific...

My list:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,260

The Gunks!

Oh wait you said best camping. Never mind.

Andrew Shoemaker · · Olympia, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 265

Ive only been to a handful of these places but i would say Leavenworth is my favorite...not too crowded on weekdays, beautiful scenery, and yes there is free camping on the other side of icicle creek across from the pay campground.

jmapping · · Carbondale, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 766

Keep em coming and I'll map em!!! But only if we get enough to be interesting.

What we have so far:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Tres Piedras (NM)
Unaweep (CO)
11 Mile Canyon (CO)
Lime Creek (CO)
Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Add Roger's Campground to the list at New River Gorge, WV. Very similar to Miguel's - fairly cheap and great party scene. If you want to avoid the scene, head over to Chestnut Creek which is just a couple miles up the road and offers private campsites, private showers, and only about $3 more per night.

thecornyman · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 140

I'm jealous, all the camping in CA near the best rock is extremely over crowded.

YDPL8S · · Santa Monica, Ca. · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 540

North rim of the Black Canyon. Where else can you camp a 5min walk to the top of such impressive routes. A great place to get the acrophobia tingle.

Andrew Shoemaker · · Olympia, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 265
Wombat wrote:Keep em coming and I'll map em!!! But only if we get enough to be interesting. What we have so far: Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote Leavenworth (WA) - scenic Tres Piedras (NM) Unaweep (CO) 11 Mile Canyon (CO) Lime Creek (CO) Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush
Banks Lake in Eastern Wa! Good climbing, gorgeous desert scenery, and never crowded. Also in the area is swimming, hiking, bouldering and fishing.

Squamish, BC
Andrew Shoemaker · · Olympia, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 265
Jon H wrote:Add Roger's Campground to the list at New River Gorge, WV. Very similar to Miguel's - fairly cheap and great party scene. If you want to avoid the scene, head over to Chestnut Creek which is just a couple miles up the road and offers private campsites, private showers, and only about $3 more per night.
Rogers is so much fun and you are right there at the Kaymoor Wall!!
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

How can Miguels at the Red not be mentioned yet? #1 in the East. As for Midwest, add in Devils Lake, Wisconsin. Great climbs, soothing cool clean lake for swimming,, but camp outside the terribly expensive and hard to reserve -a -spot-state park; go to Green Valley campgrounds.

Dan Carter · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 410

Cochise Stronghold, AZ

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Penitente, CO
Wild Iris, WY
Smith Rock State Park Bivy site -- solar powered showers!

jmapping · · Carbondale, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 766

This is getting good...

What we have so far - Update:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Tres Piedras (NM)
Unaweep (CO)
11 Mile Canyon (CO)
Lime Creek (CO)
Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush
New River Gorge (WV) - Rogers Campground and Chestnut Creek Campground
North Rim of the Black Canyon (CO)
Banks Lake (WA) - scenic and no crowds
Squamish (B.C. Canada)
Red River Gorge (KY) - Miguels Campground - Challenged!
Devils Lake (WI) - Green Valley Campgrounds
Cochise Stronghold (AZ)
Penitente Canyon (CO)
Wild Iris (WY)
Smith Rock State Park (OR) - Bivy Site

Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410

Under Spearhead. Well maybe 25 years ago.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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