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Best Rock Climbing Area Camping?
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By Wombat
From Boulder, co
Jun 7, 2011
Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibility of world cities.

I saw this link to an article about the best camping spots for America's climbing areas. I can't help but notice this is a very limited list. There are so many good climbing areas with great camping. Anyone got any favorites?

My list:
Turkey Rocks (CO)
Shelf Road (CO)
City of Rocks (ID)
Indian Creek (UT)
Enchanted Tower (NM)
Leavenworth (WA)


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By Andrew Shoemaker
From Garden Valley, ID
Jun 7, 2011
Me on Mt. Evans

Wombat wrote:
I saw this link to an article about the best camping spots for America's climbing areas. I can't help but notice this is a very limited list. There are so many good climbing areas with great camping. Anyone got any favorites? My list: Turkey Rocks (CO) City of Rocks (CO) Shelf Road (CO) Indian Creek (UT) Enchanted Tower (NM) Leavenworth (WA)


New River Gorge (WV)
Banks Lake (Wa)


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By Andrew Shoemaker
From Garden Valley, ID
Jun 7, 2011
Me on Mt. Evans

And, btw, City of Rocks is in Idaho not Colorado


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Jun 7, 2011
Stabby

Lime Creek needs to be on the list. The camping is better than the climbing.


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By T.Dailey
From Avon
Jun 7, 2011
Morning #1 of 25

Mike Lane wrote:
Lime Creek needs to be on the list. The camping is better than the climbing.

+1.
Mike, have you been out there yet this season? I've been meaning to take a drive out.

I'd like to add Unaweep, the "non private" land left off the divide road is quite a pleasent spot to camp.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver
Jun 7, 2011
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

Not sure what the criteria is but I love 11 mile canyon. If you like to fish it can't be beat. Great hiking. You will not be alone however


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By Wombat
From Boulder, co
Jun 7, 2011
Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibility of world cities.

Andrew Shoemaker wrote:
And, btw, City of Rocks is in Idaho not Colorado


Good catch.


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By Wombat
From Boulder, co
Jun 7, 2011
Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibility of world cities.

Rick Blair wrote:
Not sure what the criteria is...


Good point. The article broke it down into a couple categories. My choices were for all around good time. However, if I were to be more specific...

My list:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jun 7, 2011
Hey there!

The Gunks!

Oh wait you said best camping. Never mind.


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By Andrew Shoemaker
From Garden Valley, ID
Jun 7, 2011
Me on Mt. Evans

Ive only been to a handful of these places but i would say Leavenworth is my favorite...not too crowded on weekdays, beautiful scenery, and yes there is free camping on the other side of icicle creek across from the pay campground.


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By Wombat
From Boulder, co
Jun 7, 2011
Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibility of world cities.

Keep em coming and I'll map em!!! But only if we get enough to be interesting.

What we have so far:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Tres Piedras (NM)
Unaweep (CO)
11 Mile Canyon (CO)
Lime Creek (CO)
Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Jun 7, 2011
At the matching crux

Add Roger's Campground to the list at New River Gorge, WV. Very similar to Miguel's - fairly cheap and great party scene. If you want to avoid the scene, head over to Chestnut Creek which is just a couple miles up the road and offers private campsites, private showers, and only about $3 more per night.


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By thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Jun 7, 2011
mike

I'm jealous, all the camping in CA near the best rock is extremely over crowded.


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By YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Jun 7, 2011
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck

North rim of the Black Canyon. Where else can you camp a 5min walk to the top of such impressive routes. A great place to get the acrophobia tingle.


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By Andrew Shoemaker
From Garden Valley, ID
Jun 7, 2011
Me on Mt. Evans

Wombat wrote:
Keep em coming and I'll map em!!! But only if we get enough to be interesting. What we have so far: Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote Leavenworth (WA) - scenic Tres Piedras (NM) Unaweep (CO) 11 Mile Canyon (CO) Lime Creek (CO) Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush


Banks Lake in Eastern Wa! Good climbing, gorgeous desert scenery, and never crowded. Also in the area is swimming, hiking, bouldering and fishing.

Squamish, BC


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By Andrew Shoemaker
From Garden Valley, ID
Jun 7, 2011
Me on Mt. Evans

Jon H wrote:
Add Roger's Campground to the list at New River Gorge, WV. Very similar to Miguel's - fairly cheap and great party scene. If you want to avoid the scene, head over to Chestnut Creek which is just a couple miles up the road and offers private campsites, private showers, and only about $3 more per night.


Rogers is so much fun and you are right there at the Kaymoor Wall!!


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 7, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

How can Miguels at the Red not be mentioned yet? #1 in the East. As for Midwest, add in Devils Lake, Wisconsin. Great climbs, soothing cool clean lake for swimming,, but camp outside the terribly expensive and hard to reserve -a -spot-state park; go to Green Valley campgrounds.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jun 7, 2011

because miguels, despite the tasty food and awesome scene, is a friggin hole for camping. you couldnt pay me to camp there.

does Canada count? because Squamish is awesome- probably my favorite campground so far.


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By Dan Carter
From Las Cruces, NM
Jun 7, 2011

Cochise Stronghold, AZ


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Jun 7, 2011

Penitente, CO
Wild Iris, WY
Smith Rock State Park Bivy site -- solar powered showers!


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By Wombat
From Boulder, co
Jun 7, 2011
Cutout from a larger map illustrating accessibility of world cities.

This is getting good...

What we have so far - Update:
Turkey Rocks (CO) - quiet and free
Shelf Road (CO) - scenic and cheap
City of Rocks (ID) - scenic and convenient
Indian Creek (UT) - scenic, remote, free, and lawless
Enchanted Tower (NM) currently debatable - remote
Leavenworth (WA) - scenic
Tres Piedras (NM)
Unaweep (CO)
11 Mile Canyon (CO)
Lime Creek (CO)
Maple Canyon (UT) - convenient and plush
New River Gorge (WV) - Rogers Campground and Chestnut Creek Campground
North Rim of the Black Canyon (CO)
Banks Lake (WA) - scenic and no crowds
Squamish (B.C. Canada)
Red River Gorge (KY) - Miguels Campground - Challenged!
Devils Lake (WI) - Green Valley Campgrounds
Cochise Stronghold (AZ)
Penitente Canyon (CO)
Wild Iris (WY)
Smith Rock State Park (OR) - Bivy Site


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By Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 7, 2011
Slick Rock put in

Under Spearhead. Well maybe 25 years ago.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Jun 7, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

John Wilder wrote:
because miguels, despite the tasty food and awesome scene, is a friggin hole for camping. you couldnt pay me to camp there. does Canada count? because Squamish is awesome- probably my favorite campground so far.


I agree, I won't stay at Miguel's anymore. I stayed at Lago Linda's a couple weeks ago and it was much better! LL's is $3 more but has free showers, private sites, and no groups of idiots yelling until 4am.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jun 7, 2011

Nick Mardirosian wrote:
I agree, I won't stay at Miguel's anymore. I stayed at Lago Linda's a couple weeks ago and it was much better! LL's is $3 more but has free showers, private sites, and no groups of idiots yelling until 4am.


agreed. Linda's is much better. If you climb outside of the southern region, its a bit far, but the scene there is pretty awesome and the quiet is much appreciated when i'm planning on actually climbing the next day!


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By super dave
From las vegas, nv
Jun 7, 2011
me in la grave with mt blanc some 100 miles in the distant background.

Lovers Leap!!! Rack up and climb.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jun 7, 2011
El Chorro

First order of business: Take Miguel's off the list. It sucks, and there are plenty of threads in which I've explained why.

Roger's at the New has actually been my home a few different times (read: I had a job in Fayetteville). It is NOTHING like Miguel's... but yea there are parties sometimes. Much smaller, friendlier, more laid back community though with a lot more to talk about than what happened at "the lode."

Indian Creek is kind of vague. I loved Creek Pasture... Bridger Jack campground was on the mag's list... wombat where do you camp?

+1 for Cochise. Beautiful place to camp, amazing climbing... destination for sure.

Chapel Pond Pass is a favorite of mine even though I've only been once. Excellent access to tons of amazing climbing and always a few locals around to keep you laughing and drinking beer. LOVE the Dacks!


FLAG


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