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Best Redwood climbing?
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By Laine
From Reno, NV
Aug 6, 2012
Rapping over Fiddler on the Roof

Hi All, anyone have suggestions on climbing in the coastal redwoods? Advice on the best cliff(s), routes, and most importantly a published guidebook is greatly appreciated. Sport and/or trad (doesn't matter), no bouldering though. MP's beta is good but kinda vague.

Thanks, peeps.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Aug 6, 2012
Colonel Mustard

Bigfoot Country Climbing by Eric Chemello & Paul Humphrey. Had to pick it up in Arcata (Adventure's Edge has it) at one of the sport shops, it doesn't seem to be available anywhere online. Sucks for advanced planning!

Trinity Aretes was the best area I went to but my exploration was far from exhaustive. You will be by, but not necessarily in the redwoods when climbing these areas. Have fun, it's beautiful country.


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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 6, 2012
Grip strength training, Nevada style.

Trinity Aretes is one of the best areas in the Redwood Coast area but as mentioned it is not actually in the redwoods but a little further inland. Patrick's Point, although limited in number of climbs is in the redwoods as is Lost Rocks(bouldering), Footsteps and Promontory. Footsteps and Promontory, while bolted are somewhat committing due to the rock quality and seaside environment. Land of the Lost is considered by many to be the best all around area with about 50 routes from 5.5 to 12+ with a couple harder routes and projects. One of the crags, the "pinch me" wall is in the guidebook. Unfortunately, the FS has the gate closed until June 2014 due to road repairs to alleviate naturally occurring asbestos that has been found along the road about a mile from the crags. The signs on the gate state that even foot traffic is prohibited. I am planning on adding all of the LOTL routes to MP once the legal access is open again.


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By Mitch M
Aug 6, 2012

Trinity Aretes and Footsteps are my two favorite sport areas up here, get the guidebook and check them out.

EDIT: Don't forget to wear thick pants and a good long sleave shirt if doing the approach to Footsteps. Lots of nettle and oak on the trail. Like Rick said the climbs are a little intimidating, i.e. stepping off a boulder over the water to get on the routes. But the climbs are fun on pretty interesting rock in a unique setting. We even saw two grey whales right off the shore last visit.


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By Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Aug 6, 2012
crack at undisclosed location - my little proj

I thought simply climbing a rather tall Redwood tree was one of the best climbs I've ever done. And kinda scary.


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By Laine
From Reno, NV
Aug 7, 2012
Rapping over Fiddler on the Roof

Awesome, thanks for the beta guys1 Definitely gonna check out Trinity.

Zach, maybe I could scope your book before I go (not leaving for a few weeks).


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By Matthias Holladay
From Durango, Colorado
Dec 4, 2012
Find these and enjoy some new routes!

Qualifying "best" might include the myriad aspects involved in ascending rock, snow, and ice. (Oh yeah, and trees too.) These various aspects might include, as mentioned previously, setting, interesting rock, classic, aesthetic movement, etc.

One might also add difficulty to this list, or challenge, if you will . . . If so, I would recommend The Promontory, especially Blackbeard's Tears, which has, as far as I'm aware, not yet been freed.

I know nothing's truly impossible, with folks climbing .14d's and stuff, but with this nice line still waiting in obscurity, will it go, has got to, will it be achieved . . .?

Just under the roof on the first day, with Footsteps in the background.
Just under the roof on the first day, with Footsteps in the background.

I know there were a few guys cleaning it up and working on it this summer . . .


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