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Best place to live in Marin if you want to climb?
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By swaka
From Novato, CA
Mar 16, 2014

Hi - I'm going to be moving to Marin at the end of April and am trying to figure out the best place to live for easy access to climbing. It looks like the only climbing gyms are in Berkley, San Fran, and Santa Rosa. I'm looking into San Rafael/San Anselmo, is there anywhere close to there? Or are there any good bouldering/sport climbs in the area? Thanks!


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Mar 16, 2014

I'd say live close to the bridge so you can get out of Marin and get towards the Sierra. Although, Chris Mac lives there so it can't be that bad for a climber.

Mickey's beach is probably the closest decent "crag" but I wouldn't base where I would live based upon that one spot.

There was a new bay area guidebook published last year, maybe check that out to get an idea.
www.amazon.com/Bay-Area-Rock-Bouldering-Francisco/dp/0982913>>>


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By swaka
From Novato, CA
Mar 18, 2014

Thanks bergbryce I'll def check out the book for some tips. If anyone else has any tips I'd love to hear em!


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
Mar 18, 2014
don't throw rocks

If you want yosemite then live close to the Richmond bridge (San Rafael area). If you want tahoe crags then live more north to connect to highway 37 (Novato-esque). If you want gyms then something closer to Golden Gate Bridge to access Planet Granite in SF (or deal with richmond bridge and 80 to get to berkeley touchstone.)

You'll tire of Mickey's Beach/The Egg in a coupke of weekends unless you're into projecting hard sport.

St Helena has off the grid sport climbing with an hour + approach buy-in. For that stuff, Novato-esque is your best bet.

There's no good climbing in the bay. Period. You plan where you live by how easy it'll be to escape the bay before the weekend rush to go to your desired sierra spot.


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By swaka
From Novato, CA
Apr 4, 2014

Kevin - well that's disheartening, but thanks for the frank response!


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 4, 2014

What Kevin said is true. I grew up in Marin and its only got some small obscure spots for climbing. Great and plenty of mountain biking though. Planet Granite SF is the closest gym to Marin and one of the better ones in the bay area I think. The bay area makes up for its lack of outdoor climbing with probably thr largest concentration of high quality gyms anywhere.

Honestly the deciding factor usually for where you live in Marin is first what you can afford then what district you want your kid in.


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By Matt Ressler
From Dillon Colorado
Apr 5, 2014

Sunset boulders in Goat Rock State park is a fun spot. Couple top rope options and boulder problems.

Closer to Guerneville and Occidental.


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