Best of Both Worlds
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This fun line ascends the wall between Tyr and Flexible Flyer. Locate the clean, orange, right-facing corner between these two routes. Start on the low angled rock directly below the attractive dihedral. The line goes around the left side of a small roof located 12 feet up, and the thin crack above, to reach the obvious corner. This route has been lead in one pitch and is an excellent rope-length of climbing! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)
Pitch 1- Climb up to the corner and ascend it to a small roof formed by a safely wedged block. Move up and left around this roof to a small stance below a set of thin cracks (continuing up and right in the main crack system is Hyper Sloth.) Climb up the parallel thin cracks to a piton, where a move right (5.10), and then back left, gains a stance and easier climbing. Move up and left towards the ledge on black-stained stone and belay from bolt anchors. 5.10, pro to 2½ “, 82 feet.
Pitch 2 – Locate the overhanging, right-leaning, left-facing shallow corner above to the right bearing bolts. Climb past a large, well-perched block to the first bolt. Strenuous, high quality climbing leads to a grand finale roof, then anchors. 5.10+, 6 bolts, optional 1” to 1½” gear placement to reach the first bolt, 55 feet.
Pro to 2.5", anchors.
The obvious, right-facing orange corner immediately left of Flexible Flyer (listed in Squeezing the Lemmon.)
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