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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
Asgard T 
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 
Best of Both Worlds T 
Business as Usual T 
Chicken Little S 
Dead Precedents T 
Digital Alarm T 
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 
Eggashegadrae T 
Fear of Lurking S 
Few Species T 
Flexible Flyer T 
Furchrissakes T 
Gully T 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 
Hall of the Mountain King T 
Hostile Takeover T 
Hung Like a Troll T 
Hyper Sloth T 
If I Had a Hammer T 
Internet Troll T 
Jerk Whisperer, The S 
Loki T 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 
Player Hater's Club T 
Run Like Hell T 
Sidebottom T 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Slip Service S 
Slot, The T 
Smoke and Mirrors S 
Spew Feces T 
Stalker, The T 
Stranger in a Strange Land S 
Sudden Death T 
Take Apart the Robots T 
Talk of the Nation S 
Tao of Choy, The T 
That's Entertainment T 
Trollkind T 
Tyr T 
Unforgiven T 
Vahalla T 
You're Fired! T 

Best of Both Worlds 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: SA, Jean Francois Camson, Justin Keptuch, Jay Ladin
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

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Description 

This fun line ascends the wall between Tyr and Flexible Flyer. Locate the clean, orange, right-facing corner between these two routes. Start on the low angled rock directly below the attractive dihedral. The line goes around the left side of a small roof located 12 feet up, and the thin crack above, to reach the obvious corner. This route has been lead in one pitch and is an excellent rope-length of climbing! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1- Climb up to the corner and ascend it to a small roof formed by a safely wedged block. Move up and left around this roof to a small stance below a set of thin cracks (continuing up and right in the main crack system is Hyper Sloth.) Climb up the parallel thin cracks to a piton, where a move right (5.10), and then back left, gains a stance and easier climbing. Move up and left towards the ledge on black-stained stone and belay from bolt anchors. 5.10, pro to 2 , 82 feet.

Pitch 2 Locate the overhanging, right-leaning, left-facing shallow corner above to the right bearing bolts. Climb past a large, well-perched block to the first bolt. Strenuous, high quality climbing leads to a grand finale roof, then anchors. 5.10+, 6 bolts, optional 1 to 1 gear placement to reach the first bolt, 55 feet.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5", anchors.

location 

The obvious, right-facing orange corner immediately left of Flexible Flyer (listed in Squeezing the Lemmon.)


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