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Best Multi-Pitch Sport Routes in North America
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By Zack Wentz
From Vancouver, BC
Apr 28, 2012
All I need is cams, cams, cams....
Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Apr 28, 2012
tanuki
mountainproject.com/v/el-potre...

El Potrero Chico is the ticket. There are a lot more climbs there than are listed in on MP. It is multi-pitch sport paradise.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 28, 2012
El Chorro
Yea, Mexico has more multi-pitch sport than you could ever climb. I've heard of bolted limestone sport in Canada, and know for sure that there is some in Montana as well. There was a recent article in R&I I believe, about the scene in Montana - mentioned some big bolted routes.

Honestly though, the ticket to getting up of the deck in NAmer is trad. You don't have to clip a certain amount of bolts to "be ready" for trad climbing and you don't have to climb a certain grade to have fun. You happen to live in an area that is stacked full of easy and moderate traditional classics. Get out there!

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By Josh Kornish
From Missoula, MT
Apr 28, 2012
Humboldt Bouldering
Around Missoula there are some pretty nice Multi pitch sport routes. The ethic in MT is that to not bolt if it can take natural pro.

I would check out Leavenworth, Washington!! Some really long sport routes with a nice 'alpine' feel to them

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By Stu Ritchie
From Denver
Apr 28, 2012
Desert Tortoise
For very long routes try; Blackleaf Canyon,Montana, North Face of Chinaman's,Alberta, Squaw Peak,Utah.
Chinaman's
Chinaman's


Blackleaf
Blackleaf


Squaw Peak
Squaw Peak

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By Josh Kornish
From Missoula, MT
Apr 28, 2012
Humboldt Bouldering
Leavenworth

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By JonnyGreenlee
From Evergreen, CO
Apr 28, 2012
Delicate Arch, Sturdy Arch.
If you're looking for anything closer to Boulder:
I'm not sure if its open due to falcon nesting, but there is a 4 pitch 5.9 also in BoCan, The Young and the Rackless. There is a 2 pitch 5.9 at the Solaris crag. Over at Clear Creek there is a 4 pitch 5.8, Playin' Hooky.
The 5.10a version of Buried Treasure is also a lot of fun- do the Stayin Alive finish pitch to get on top of Tonnere Tower.

Zack Wentz wrote:
Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?

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By Bill M
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 28, 2012
Red Rocks for sure. mountainproject.com/v/prince-o...

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By Cocanower
From The High Country
Apr 28, 2012
Loooose j
throw the draws away man! super sik cracks out here

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By Peter Rakowitz
From Portland, OR
May 2, 2012
Karl and me hanging out under the bolt ladder.
mountainproject.com/v/wherever...

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By Tom Grummon
From Golden, CO
May 4, 2012
Top of Montezuma's Tower
Check out the Mission Wall in Clear Creek. Close and fun. Aslo, Playing Hooky is pretty darn good to.

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By Rob Dillon
May 4, 2012
Lotta Front Range sportos come to the Monitor lately:

mountainproject.com/v/monitor-...

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By shotgunnelson
May 4, 2012
There is only one multi pitch climb you could get up at black leaf at that grade so I wouldn't call that a good suggestion. Once you get into 10+ 11- you should check it out. That place is one of my favorites.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 4, 2012
Bocan
Zack Wentz wrote:
Hey everyone. I'm from Boulder, CO, and I'm fairly new to rock climbing. I've climbed outdoors for about 3 months now, and thus far have led 5.10a outdoors. I've done one multi-pitch sport climb in Boulder Canyon (Buried Treasure, 5.9) and absolutely loved it. Does anyone know similar multi-pitch sport routes anywhere in North America (US and Canada) that are within the same grade?


So although I'm a little confused by the direction of your post, why don't you just go up to lumpy ridge in Estes park? Tons of granite like Bocan, lots of moderate multi pitch.

That would make alot more sense in my mind, instead of doing one multi-pitch then embarking on a tour of North America.

Climb the MULTIPLE moderate climbs that are within an hour of where you live.

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By Jon Lachelt
From Fort Collins, CO
May 4, 2012
Scott McMahon wrote:
... why don't you just go up to lumpy ridge in Estes park?...


He specifically asked about "sport" climbs. Are there some 5.9 sport climbs at Lumpy?

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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
May 4, 2012
Angel's Crest
Infinite Bliss in North Bend, WA (about 45 minutes from Seattle). It is a 23-pitch "sport" climb, with HUGE runouts on 5.2 climbing. There are 5 pitches 5.10 and above, crux being 5.10c. You have to rapp the route, which kind of sucks, but it is well worth the effort! From the top you are about 3500 above the river below, super exposed!

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By Daniel Wade
From Oakland, CA.
May 4, 2012
Come to Cali! loved this one: mountainproject.com/v/sunset-s...

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 4, 2012
Bocan
Jon Lachelt wrote:
He specifically asked about "sport" climbs. Are there some 5.9 sport climbs at Lumpy?


Ah good catch. Missed that one. So here's two somewhat local.

mountainproject.com/v/waiting-...
mountainproject.com/v/royal-fl...

My unsolicited opinion says to either find a trad buddy to climb with or invest that travel cash on some gear. Or haha take NC's advice and just move to Mexico. :o)

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By John D
May 4, 2012
If you're up for a bit of a road trip, city of rocks is pretty good. Theater of shadows is fantastic, maybe a bit below the grade your looking for, but sport bolted and 4 pitches. Have a look. mountainproject.com/v/theater-...

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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
May 5, 2012
Aaron O wrote:
Infinite Bliss in North Bend, WA (about 45 minutes from Seattle). It is a 23-pitch "sport" climb, with HUGE runouts on 5.2 climbing. There are 5 pitches 5.10 and above, crux being 5.10c. You have to rapp the route, which kind of sucks, but it is well worth the effort! From the top you are about 3500 above the river below, super exposed!

Although a fun route, that is not a sport climb. That thing is R/X. When I climbed it I remember two pitches where the only pro was the belay station, I was runout 120' with no pro. Granted I may have missed a bolt, but so did the four guys behind me. But most of it is fairly well bolted. Just know that there are some easier moves where if you fall, well, lets say I hope you have health insurance.

Also, there is some serious rock fall on that thing once and awhile. A party 1500' above us dislodged a rock which ended up bringing a landslide down on me and another party. Out of four people, I was the only one that did not get hit by the rock fall. I was astonished no one was seriously injured, the rock fall was serious enough to wipe all four of us off the the grid. We were lucky that were in a small alcove, so a lot of the rock flew a few feet over our heads.

None, the less it was a fun route. Just don't approach it as a sport climb, as it is not.

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By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From The Bubble
May 5, 2012
Personal Photo
mountainproject.com/scripts/Se...

Play around with settings and you'll get exactly what you want.

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By Mike Morin
From On the Road
May 5, 2012
Lincoln Lake
Here's my vote for best at the grade along the Denver Metro Front Range:

mountainproject.com/v/knossos/...

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By Bill Czajkowski
From Albuquerque, NM
May 13, 2012
Triple Jeopardy starting from 1/3 of the way up.  No good pro except at this stance and after the upcoming slab.
mountainproject.com/v/the-broa...

Maybe not the best, but reasonably close.

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By justin01
May 14, 2012
This simple route has always stuck with me. 1000ft sport climb, which left an impression early in my climbing career.

mountainproject.com/v/idaho/mc...

Kind of a long ways from anywhere, but that is the beauty of Idaho I suppose.

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By Wayne
From Superior, CO
May 14, 2012
I liked mountainproject.com/v/playin-h... down in Clear Creek Canyon.

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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
May 14, 2012
Espresso @ New Jack City
For pure epicness, Timewave Zero at El Potrero Chico gets my vote. 2300' of climbing, all you need is ~22 draws (if linking pitches). Amazing views; to top it off, you've got about 2 hours of rapping to deal with!

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