Best Mulipitch Rope?
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I am looking to buy a 70m rope for long routes on granite. I currently have a 10mm Mammut 60m and want something a bit lighter yet still somewhat durable. My buddy has a 9.1mm and 9.2mm that seem scary thin. Is that too skinny for multipitch trad climbing? With all the info out there I am a bit confused as to which rope to get. Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks MP! Oh I weigh around 185lbs. |
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I recently got a 9.5 Mammut Infinity for multipitch trad, and I'm really liking it. It's pretty light, but has a great feel- not too thin, plus the dry coating is really nice. I can't speak for how durable it is, but from what I've heard, Mammut ropes are fairly burly. |
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Beal Joker 9.1mm x 200m... end of discussion |
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Seriously though... 9.1 OR 9.2 seems scary thin? Well that depends. If you are climbing cruiser shit where you guys are not falling much, skinny is the way to go. If you are logging serious air time on long routes then maybe you want to think about going thicker so the cord will last longer. |
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I have a couple hundred pitches of Yosemite and High Sierra climbing on a Sterling Nano 9.2 (70m) and it looks mostly new. I've never seen a skinny rope hold up the way it has. |
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Tyrel Fuller wrote:Beal Joker 9.1mm x 200m... end of discussionNot a great rope and not 70m. Discussion re-opened. Anyway, I agree that the nano 9.2's are better ropes and I have both. But Greatly prefer the 9.4 to 9.5 range. And I do advocate 70m ropes, so long as you are willing to put in less gear and run that thing t the end, it pays. I do it with great frequency. Buywer beware - running a 70M pitch will give you a hellova long fall if you pitch off at the end. 10-20% rope stretch *70M of rope... just saying. |
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Another +1 for the Mammut Infinity. Good weight for its thickness and burly has heck. |
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another strong vote for the nano 9.2 |
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Another big fan of Mammut Infinity here. It's been dragged through some adventure climbs in the Black and there is no show of wear. |
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+1 Mammut Infinity. The Duodess is awesome, light, makes for a great alpine and sport climbing rope. Easy to belay with, and very durable. Only gripes are that it seems to twist up easily and that the teflon coating attracts dirt. But that's what the ice season is for... |
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Mammut Infinity 9.5 is AWESOME as is their 9.2mm "Revelation". Plenty durable and super light. Either one would be great... |
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Mammut Infinity is such a great rope. |
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If you're looking for something a little more substantial than the low 9.something ropes might I suggest the Sterling Evolution Velocity 9.8 ropes. |
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The Beal Unicore ropes are looking at. |
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Another vote for the infinity. Its got quite a following on here. |
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Kyle Blase wrote:A 9.1-9.2 isn't too skinny, it will just wear out much faster than a thicker rope.I would love to hear your theories and evidence. Blanket statements like this humor me. |
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Greg D wrote: I would love to hear your theories and evidence. Blanket statements like this humor me.If ti matters, Greg, my experience is quite similar. In reviews, the mags have also said that thinner wears out sooner, and point out that the thinner ropes have fewer threads in the sheath and sing;e pick weave instead of double, and so: A) Less material to spread the abuse over B) Non-redundancy on any part of the weave means that a single thread popped = weave of the sheath undone. |
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I think you'd really like the Maxim Pinnacle 9.5 70m bi-pattern "the yellow jacket" great handling, super durable, easy to identify the middle as its a bi-pattern as opposed to bi-color. The rope is bright as well. Made in the USA. |
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so just a bit of thread drift here, is 70m really the best length for multi-pitch??? I was thinking about upgrading to a 70m just because of all the crags around here that are being developed with 70m ropes in mind. Not to mention I thought it might be a nice addition for multi pitch routes to more easily link together pitches and raps. Extra weight and rope to pull on each pitch is definitely a downfall. |
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70m is great if you use the rope to build anchors with and it is good for a lot of raps too. Extra weight has never seemed like a problem. I only use 70m ropes these days. |
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- 70m can be useful for multi pitch IF linking pitches make sense. Many older routes had short pitches so if you a) can make it to the next good stance and b) are willing to place less gear to run it to said stance a 70m can REALLY speed up longer routes. If however, you CAN'T take advantage of that extra 10m then there's no point in hauling it along. I do know of several areas where developers were setting the rap routes specifically for 70m (35m rap). |