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Best lowering anchors
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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Jul 30, 2007
Stabby

I recently had a discussion with an old, long lost friend who is also a major route activist. For each lowering anchor he uses : 1/2" Rawl, bolt hanger, snap-link, then 4 chain links. The chain is connected to the snap-link at either link 2 or 3, so that you have a link to clip off of and a link to run the rope through.
What kind of a system would be your preference?


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By Buff Johnson
Jul 30, 2007
smiley face

Mike, I like the fixed rings (retailed from the Bent Gate):

Stainless Steel Anchor by Fixe

There's enough room in the ring to clip off and place/clean the climber's anchor slings/draws.

Course, now we're gonna debate on take & lowering versus off-belay & rap. With the simple rings, I don't think it matters, wear on these rings is easily replaceable, and you really don't get a large enough force in the ADT to affect the bolt studs & hangers.


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By Brian in SLC
Jul 30, 2007
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Mark Nelson wrote:
Mike, I like the fixed rings (retailed from the Bent Gate): Stainless Steel Anchor by Fixe There's enough room in the ring to clip off and place/clean the climber's anchor slings/draws. Course, now we're gonna debate on take & lowering versus off-belay & rap. With the simple rings, I don't think it matters, wear on these rings is easily replaceable, and you really don't get a large enough force in the ADT to affect the bolt studs & hangers.


I prefer the Fixe double rings. Bit more room to clip the upper one, and feed the rope through the lower one. Bit more freedom for the anchor, too, as the rap ring isn't so close to the rock. Also, easy for a climber to feed a loop of rope through the ring if need be (to keep "on belay" through the lowering process).

For chain anchors, I prefer a hanger, then long rapide, then a fixe ring. Seems to wear better than the end of a chain link.

Best price on Fixe gear seems to be the Fixe website. Much to the chagrin of the retailers who carry their stuff, methinks...


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Aug 17, 2007
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

I like two 1/2" steel quicklinks on each bolt. They are easy and cheap to replace, and bomber. If this needs to be extended, I use a bit of 3/8" galvanized proof chain between (even # of links). I like some of the Fixe anchors, but they tend to be expensive and often you have to replace the whole rig if the ring is worn. A few of their designes are just bad IMO. I don't like Fixe Quick clips as they are too easy for people to just throw their rope in and TR, plus they are very expensve.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Aug 17, 2007
Thumbtastic

Right now it's being discussed as an option to replace the most heavily used cliffs at RRC with the Quick Clips-my concern is about them being used instead of quickdraws-and no one here can tell me that that won't be happening *all* the time. Anyone have a good example of these type of anchors going in and getting worn out quickly?


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Aug 17, 2007
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

The quickclips at the popular meadows cliffs of Rumney get beat very quickly. Go with 1/2" quicklinks where the rope runs. They can be replaced at around $3 apiece and can take a lot of wear.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Aug 17, 2007
Thumbtastic

Anyone else? I think that the CLC's head honchette's idea is to roll with those anchors at the Gallery. I think they might wear out too quickly, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace the easiest 2 or 3 routes up there with them and see how it goes. I'm betting about a 3 year turnaround on replacement of those quickstyle ones versus 20+years for fat bolts with hoss-sized links on them.


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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 17, 2007
Grip strength training, Nevada style.

Good stance at the anchor=quick link and chains. Cheap and easy to replace. Galvanized high test 3/8" with a good paint job holds up pretty well. Use an odd # of links so the rope doesn't grind on the rock.

Desperate stance or really steep at the anchor=quick link and Mussy hooks. The mussies can handle a huge amount of wear and tear and are pretty cheap when compared to fancy commercial jobs that have way less metal. If the gates on the mussies get soft or the springs wear out before the hook, they can be rebuilt for pennies.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Aug 17, 2007
Russ



Greg has a pic of a well used MussyHook from a cliff in Flag..... maybe he can post it?? and give some estimated wear data.....

similar thread with pics of some of the products available and pricing:

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=400297


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Aug 17, 2007
Thumbtastic

Thanks a lot for the shots of the mussies-I haven't seen them but a couple of times and didn't even know what they were called. At a high usage area like the Gallery, it's looking like the best option might be chain so as to be most replacable. I like the idea about odd number links-that's smooth.


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By susan peplow
From Joshua Tree
Aug 17, 2007
Beer Anyone?

Greg wrote:
The hook was placed sometime around when Mussy hooks first started being used (when was that Russ?) so basically this is the wear from a few years.


Greg, that's not exactly true....MussyHooks™ had been actively (and successfully) used for replacement in Owens River Gorge for some time prior to the anchor replacements at the Pit. But to answer your question, the Pit anchors were replaced in March of '03 during the time that Rob Miller & Tommy Costa were working on, "The Pit, Limestone Sport Climbing, Flagstaff, AZ 5th Edition".

Interesting tid-bit about the design of that guide, Tommy actually called them "Muzzy Hooks" - thankfully that was corrected prior to publishing to MussyHooks™

~Susan

Disclaimer: I answered on Russ' behalf as there is .0123% chance he'd remember the dates of the replacements.


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By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2007

Those Mussy hooks at the Pit are the bomb but because of the way they're rigged, invite you to TR through them. Don't know if there's a solution to this.

The longest lasting anchors are the Fixe rings. Two reasons: First, unlike chain links, quick links and Mussy's the rings can rotate so the wear is spread out over the entire surface of the ring. Has anyone seen a Fixe ring with a wear groove on it? I haven't. Big Karma Kredits to anyone who installs the Fixe Double Ring Anchors. I love those things. They're way easy to use, whatever system you prefer for lowering. Second, the rings are hardened steel unlike Mussy's and the 'shuts you see around. While chain links and quick links are hardened (hopefully) the wear is always at one end so they wear out quickly.

Climb Safe,
Mal


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Aug 18, 2007
Russ

Malcolm Daly wrote:
Those Mussy hooks at the Pit are the bomb but because of the way they're rigged, invite you to TR through them.


Hey Mal!

The Mussys are designed (if you can call it that) to be lowered on. The TR thing should be done with the leaders own gear clipped into the bolts...... then the last person is lowered through the hooks. The Mussys are supposed to be pretty cheap and easy to replace, and thus lowering is encouraged, or perhaps the single TR of the follower after the leader drops the cord into the hooks. Gang toproping or working of routes should always be done on your own gear clipped directly into the bolts IMO, regardless of how easy it is to replace a worn anchor.


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By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Aug 18, 2007

So who is Mussy anyway (other than Russ)? Where did that name come from?
mal


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By mikewhite
Nov 17, 2007
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Quick draws then rapell off.


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