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Best light single rope?
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By Tim Zander
May 17, 2011

My 9.8 is getting worn out, so time for a new rope. I want something lighter for remote climbs and technical mountaineering, but also looking for the most durable rope in the 9.2-9.5 range. Also, dry is a must.

What is your experience?


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
May 17, 2011

Sterling Ion2 or the Edelrid Falcon are my two favorite 9.4 lines.

The Sterling Nano may also be an option- the folks I know who use it rave about its durability for a 9.2mm line.


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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
May 17, 2011
Crux roof on Freeway...

The Mammut Infinity 9.5mm is a solid rope. I have owned 4 of these in the past. They are not the lightest, but you will find more uses for them besides light weight alpine days.


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By Cole Phinney
From Sheridan, Wy
May 17, 2011

+1 for the Sterling Ion.


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By Unassigned User
May 17, 2011

+1 for the Mammut Infinity 9.5
Have had very good luck

Mammut also has the Revelation at 9.2


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By Br'er Rabbit
From The Briar Patch
May 17, 2011
'Bred en bawn in a brier-patch, Brer Fox--bred en bawn in a brier-patch!'

I've been beating on my 9.2mm Edelwiess Performance for nearly four years now....just trimmed the ends and I think I might get four more years out of it...well, maybe not, but you get the idea.

On Sale at Bentgate....


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By JonathanC
From CO
May 17, 2011

+1 Mammut Infinity


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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
May 17, 2011
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

Sterling Nano is a GREAT thin cord! Love mine, light durable and confidence inspiring (for a 9.2)


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
May 17, 2011

+1 for Mammut 9.5

-10 for Mammut 9.2, friend had one that got shredded a little too quick for my liking


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By Aaron Martinuzzi
May 17, 2011
end of the day in the black canyon.

BirminghamBen wrote:
I've been beating on my 9.2mm Edelwiess Performance for nearly four years now....just trimmed the ends and I think I might get four more years out of it...well, maybe not, but you get the idea. On Sale at Bentgate....


My Edelwiess Performance was definitely an excellent workhorse, and pretty inexpensive. It didn't have the “sweet” feeling that my PMI 9.4 mm did, but it was a good bit less pricey and I had no complaints about it. Sterling and Mammut make great ropes but Edelwiess's cords can generally be found for a bit less coin. Check out justropes.com for deals, they often have old colors of nice ropes for good prices.


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By Juho Risku
May 18, 2011

I'm aware of quite a few ropes that fit the specifications of yours. I've personally been using Beal Joker for a few years, which is slightly thinner i.e. 9.1 mm, as a single. I've been pretty happy with it. It's good quality, reasonably light, durable, easy to feed and can be used in half / twin configurations as well...

Out of those others particularly Monster Ropes / Tendon Master 9.2 (actually a same rope) and perhaps Sterling Rope Fusion Nano seem interesting alternatives. First offering low weight / low impact force combination and second being even lighter. If you'd be prepared to go with an even skinnier rope, I'd consider also Edelweiss Extrem II, that has lower impact force than the ones mentioned above... being very skinny that might come at the expense of durability though it has the sharp edge protection.

As I have good experiences with Edelweiss, especially in terms of durability, I would probably take Extrem II anyways and give it a try. :-)

In case you're interested of comparing the specifications, I've collected a list of <9.5 mm ropes that I'm aware of here


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By Ted Kryzer
From Rochester, MN
May 18, 2011

sterling nano. Its awesome i climbed on it all last sumer and its still going strong.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
May 18, 2011
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Mammut Infinity. Holds up better than some of my 10mm's.


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By Larry S
May 18, 2011
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

I'm really happy with my Mammut Infinity so far (5 months)


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By Luc
Administrator
From Montreal
May 18, 2011
The El

+1 Mammut Infinity (9.5mmx70m)

Had a Galaxy for years, decided to cut some weight and got myself a new rope. No issues yet.

9.2 Revelation 6-7 55g/m 9.3kN 7.2%
9.5 Infinity 7-8 58g/m 9.1kN 6.8%
10 Galaxy 8-9 66g/m 9.2kN 7%


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 18, 2011
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

My bluewater 9.4 still hangs on as one of the best ropes I have ever owned. I said it 2 years ago in the same discussion and STILL say it now- and I'm talking about the same rope I was using then... it's that good. Handles like a dream, wears like steel.


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By Red
From Arizona
May 18, 2011
Cobra Kai

Luc wrote:
+1 Mammut Infinity (9.5mmx70m)

best rope ever


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By redlude97
May 18, 2011

Just heaping on more praise for the Mammut Infinity. It is a workhorse. Same construction as the Mammut Supersafe, which is widely regarded as one of the most durable ropes around. The catches are slightly harsher than other ropes I've used though


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By Scott Bennett
May 18, 2011
photo by Forest Woodward

Sounds like tons of people are fans of the Sterling 9.2, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. We had multiple core shots after less than two days (~40 pitches) of climbing this winter, and I know of at least three other parties who had similar experiences.

I think that the sheath is kinda flimsy. Much more than other ultra-skinny lines I've used, it tends to go from a "keep-an-eye-on-that" soft spot to an "oh-my-god" six-inch long core shot within a day.

the remains of a sterling 9.2
the remains of a sterling 9.2


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
May 18, 2011
Cleo's Needle

redlude97 wrote:
Just heaping on more praise for the Mammut Infinity. It is a workhorse. Same construction as the Mammut Supersafe, which is widely regarded as one of the most durable ropes around. The catches are slightly harsher than other ropes I've used though


Slightly heavier than Mammut claims. My 60m is 8.5 pounds brand new.


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By Guy H.
From Fort Collins CO
May 18, 2011
Crux roof on Freeway...

Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Slightly heavier than Mammut claims. My 60m is 8.5 pounds brand new.


Mammut cuts their ropes long to allow for shrinkage with use. This might explain part of the weight difference.


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By Tyler Wick
From Bishop, CA
May 18, 2011
ECM

Scott Bennett wrote:
Sounds like tons of people are fans of the Sterling 9.2, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. We had multiple core shots after less than two days (~40 pitches) of climbing this winter, and I know of at least three other parties who had similar experiences. I think that the sheath is kinda flimsy. Much more than other ultra-skinny lines I've used, it tends to go from a "keep-an-eye-on-that" soft spot to an "oh-my-god" six-inch long core shot within a day.


+1

Haven't core shot mine yet, but the sheath was already looking pitiful after maybe ~20 pitches.


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By Richard88
From Sheridan, WY
May 18, 2011
piney creek canyon

+1 for the sterling ion

definitley a great great rope and very durable


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By Sam Stephens
May 20, 2011
Top half of Melifluous

Sterling Ion or Bluewater Hyalite.


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By mtnkid85
May 20, 2011

Ive been quite pleased with my 9.1 Beal Joker. Durability has been better than I figured on. I use it mostly as my Alpine rock rope; very little top roping/craging on it and I feel thats a pretty good use for it.
I sure wouldnt reccomend it as your only rope though...

Oh, I also second the Mammut Infinity. One of most favorite ropes Ive had. Much more of a all arounder rope than the joker.


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
May 21, 2011

i love my sterling 9.8 70 meter, its not super light but it is as light at my 10.2 edelwies, handles great and i have a lot more than 40 pitches on it with no troubles. I also feel like a little moer peice of mind is worth hauling an extra 2.5 pounds


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