Mountain Project Logo

Best J-Tree Intro Trad Areas

Original Post
Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Can anyone recommend a couple of good areas for someone who is new to climbing in Joshua Tree? Me and the misses are headed down for our first time and have found a few options that sound good but would like some input from people who have been there before. From the descriptions and comments it sounds like the ratings are a bit stiff. I'm from SLC and am comfortable climbing Little Cottonwood trad grades of about 5.7 to 5.8 depending on the type of route. I'm also comfortable setting up my own belay stations (LCC Canyon here at home has a lot of bolted belays). Also, what's a recommended "standard rack" for the area? Here at home it's typically a set of stoppers and a full set of cams with doubles on hand sizes (.5 to 1). Thanks in advance for all you're input. Cheers!

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Have a rack to BD #3 for building anchors.

Get one of the guidebooks. There are numerous areas for easier trad climbs and for setting up topropes.

Here is a good intro guidebook:

amazon.com/The-Trad-Guide-J…

A more comprehensive guidebook would be one of these:

amazon.com/Joshua-Tree-Clim…

amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Jo…

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 804

I don't know if they still do it but you could rent a guidebook for the day from the little shop at the entrance to the park.
I'd recommend Lost Horse area for some good moderate trad climbs.

kmyee · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 16

Great areas with lots of moderate routes:

Atlantis Wall in Lost Horse

Thin Wall in Real Hidden Valley

Both of these areas are popular with guides and groups so they may be a bit crowded on weekends after the season starts.

Some other good climbs:

Sail Away
White Lightning
Double Cross

The Miramontes guidebook is excellent.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Stay away from Double Cross.

That climb has kilt about 5 - 8 climbers.... It needs bolts for safety.

.... just pick some climbs with stars.

In your pay grade.

Start with "The Eye" . "The Upper Right Ski Track" "Double Dogleg" "Young Lust"

"Bacon Flake" ..... look those up in GB.

That should get you started

Have Fun.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Take the nice walk out to Mental Physics, it's really good climb with fewer people,5.7 i think and a nice area.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Guy, are you trying to get ST members over here. You know they can smell the Double Cross bolt talk through the interweb! :)

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,617

Joshua Tree moderate traditional routes are usually well protected with a full set of wires, I don't think you'll need to double up on cams, one of each from .38" to number 4 friend.

Really try to use the wires, and hexentrics, keeps your rack light and lets you learn the art.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
Bonneville wrote:Can anyone recommend a couple of good areas for someone who is new to climbing in Joshua Tree? Me and the misses are headed down for our first time and have found a few options that sound good but would like some input from people who have been there before. From the descriptions and comments it sounds like the ratings are a bit stiff. I'm from SLC and am comfortable climbing Little Cottonwood trad grades of about 5.7 to 5.8 depending on the type of route. I'm also comfortable setting up my own belay stations (LCC Canyon here at home has a lot of bolted belays). Also, what's a recommended "standard rack" for the area? Here at home it's typically a set of stoppers and a full set of cams with doubles on hand sizes (.5 to 1). Thanks in advance for all you're input. Cheers!
The grades won't feel any stiffer than LCC. Just use the MP search function and look for routes in your grade range with high star ratings, that should keep you busy for a few years.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
Chris Owen wrote:Joshua Tree moderate traditional routes are usually well protected with a full set of wires, I don't think you'll need to double up on cams, one of each from .38" to number 4 friend. Really try to use the wires, and hexentrics, keeps your rack light and lets you learn the art.
??? wires ?? I think this is a bit of a generalization, don't you ?i have found that many JT moderates need larger cams
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Good suggestions from Guy. Some of those will feel easy, but are fun and will get you used to the rock. I never found the Thin Wall or Atlantis to be great areas. Grainier and looser than many other places in Josh I think, and now crowded to boot. Try:

Rock Garden Valley. Tiny Tots Rock is nearby and has some fun, moderate stuff as well.
Cruise Hidden Valley CG and try: Toe Jam, Hands Off, The Flake, Overhang Bypass, Sexy Grandma.
If you're comfortable with multipitch, Dappled Mare and the Swift on the Lost Horse Wall are fun.

There are really too many places to recommend. Just look around and climb what looks good.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Guy Keesee wrote:Stay away from Double Cross. That climb has kilt about 5 - 8 climbers.... It needs bolts for safety. .... just pick some climbs with stars. In your pay grade. Start with "The Eye" . "The Upper Right Ski Track" "Double Dogleg" "Young Lust" "Bacon Flake" ..... look those up in GB. That should get you started Have Fun.
Ridiculous. Double Cross is a great moderate trad lead that is very well protected and rated at 4.5/5 stars. The only section of that climb that is even mildly dangerous is the start and it's 4th class. There is a bomber nut placement at the beginning of the crack and I bet this topic has been beat to death over the years. The simple fact is the climb is safe as is unless you are sketchy on 4th class or 5.nothing or just like to not protect things for some personal reason.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

My God.... people have died on Double Cross!!! Its the Eiger of Southern California, and needs to have the Bolts (that a caring climber installed for SAFETY) put back.

gription.... I have seen the bodies, I have seen the injured, I have watched as the JOSAR dudes pull right up to the RESERVED parking spot that they keep right there for such dire emergencies.

Stop the Deaths - NOW.

And you know people have died on Toe Jam, too. The Old Woman is cursed I tell you and is pissed off.

Choss Chasin' · · Torrance, CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 25

The Eye (easy)
Gargoyle (easy offwidth top out, great hand crack start)
Left Hand of Darkness (Just damn fun)
Mike's Books (2 pitches, fun)
The Flake (Chimney start, cruiser rest of the way)
The Bong (okay but still popular)
Lazy Day (really cool)
Fote Hog (2 pitches, 1 if you are light on gear and use long slings)

All of those are very short approaches. Also I have always found hexes to be incredibly useful on J-Tree moderates given the often encountered flaring pod...but then again what do I know; I still love tricams.

George Wu · · Newport Beach, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 62
Brian wrote:I don't know if they still do it but you could rent a guidebook for the day from the little shop at the entrance to the park.
Brian probably means Nomad Ventures in the town of Twenty-nine Palms. There are multiple entrances do Joshua Tree National Park, not near each other, and in some cases, not connected to other roads within the park.

Just clarifying with a couple of details...
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Guy Keesee wrote:My God.... people have died on Double Cross!!! Its the Eiger of Southern California, and needs to have the Bolts (that a caring climber installed for SAFETY) put back. gription.... I have seen the bodies, I have seen the injured, I have watched as the JOSAR dudes pull right up to the RESERVED parking spot that they keep right there for such dire emergencies. Stop the Deaths - NOW. And you know people have died on Toe Jam, too. The Old Woman is cursed I tell you and is pissed off.
Guy is right - the bodies pile up faster than the meatwagons can remove them. The place smells of death. Should have called the formation The Grim Reaper.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

""Brian probably means Nomad Ventures in the town of Twenty-nine Palms.

Nomad is in the town of Joshua Tree .... Park Hqtrs is in 29 stumps.

Frank gets it.... oh the humanity.

but seriously... people do die at Josh. I think that the combo of people taking the fairly dangerous climbs to lightly and they think that its a good place to learn how to place pro and all that.... One has nowhere to fall.

Bonneville Williams · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 145

Thanks for all the input guys. I may pick up an extra BD #2 and #3 just to be safe. There's so many routes in the area that it's a bit overwhelming when looking here on MP and not really knowing the area too well. Keep the great comments and advice coming! Cheers!

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

The canyon with double dog leg has a 4 or 5 classics in your range. Its in the shade(at least it is in the winter) and the climbs are stellar. I would highly suggest renting or buying a guide. There is a ton of stuff there and mp generally has really bad approach descriptions

Guy Keesee wrote:Stay away from Double Cross. That climb has kilt about 5 - 8 climbers.... It needs bolts for safety.
Don't worry guy, looks someone just installed a few bolts to keep the body count down. If you are going to get on this, you probably can keep can keep your rack in the car just need a few draws.
lozo bozo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30

Guy, Have people really died on toe jam??
Got any info on what happened?

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
headead wrote:Guy, Have people really died on toe jam?? Got any info on what happened?
They just dragged the bodies over from Doublecross to Toe Jam - all part of the cover-up.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
Post a Reply to "Best J-Tree Intro Trad Areas"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.