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best inexpensive beginner shoe?
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By jim.dangle
Oct 24, 2013

Looking to get some shoes for a school program for kids. Money is scarce. They are old enough to take adult sizes. I'd like to get the most durable shoes. Some of the kids also climb pretty hard and do a lot of bouldering so it would be good if the shoes climbed well. Velcro entry would also be good but not necessary.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

Jim


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By Larry S
Oct 24, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

i've got no experience with them, but i suggest Evolv Royals, they've got extra thick rubber and rands and aren't very expensive.

- Edit - I might be wrong on those, i'm sure someone will correct me if i am. The evolv website doesn't say much about them, but i thought they were used as rental shoes.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Oct 24, 2013

I got two pairs of shoes (Pontas and five ten something lace-up), I can send them to you if you don't mind them being used and a little smelly.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 24, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

MadRock usually has last year's model shoes for cheap on their website. Frenzy or Flash are decent shoes if they have your size.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 24, 2013
...

A proven good ALL AROUND (beginner) shoe is Five Ten "Spires". Plus they have the added benefit of already have C4 on them.

Why have beginners slipping and sliding away with for shit rubber when you don't have to?

;-)


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By Kyro
Oct 24, 2013

La sportiva tarantulas are a pretty good starter shoe


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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Oct 24, 2013

I think the Evolv Defy is a nice balance of performance, simplicity, and cost. I've climbed hard (for some definitions of hard) in them, and they are WAY better than either the equivalent Mad Rocks or the Evolv Rental Shoe (Un)Spectacular. You can usually find the Defy's on sale for ~$60. Or you could see if they'll cut you a deal because it's a youth program. Or you could try to find your local Evolv rep and buy some old demo shoes.


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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2013
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"

+ 1 on the defys.


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By Will Copeland
Oct 24, 2013
view off the 4th belay

All of the shoes mentioned above are great suggestions. I bought a pair of La Sportiva Nagos recently and they have been treating me very nicely on vertical and less than vertical routes.


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By Dylan B.
Oct 24, 2013
Orgasm Direct, Devil's Lake, 5.11a  c. 2008

I liked evolv's defy model. I thought they were comfortable, performed very well, and lasted a long time. However, the stink was unbelievable. None of my other shoes smelled as bad. I threw them away well before they wore out because they smelled awful.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 24, 2013
...

"I liked evolv's defy model. I thought they were comfortable, performed very well, and lasted a long time. However, the stink was unbelievable"

VERY common for Evolv shoes.

I refer to it as the "Vomit factor" and no other shoe company has it as bad.


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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2013
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"

It's true. Mine were rank. I thought it was just me though. Nice to know others had the same problem.


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By bearbreeder
Oct 24, 2013

ive never had much problem with the hyped evolve stinkiness

i air out the shoes when im not climbing, and spray lysol into them right after ...

some of our gyms here use evolves for rentals and they do the same just fine

one thing to note about the sportivas is that they have a delamination problem .... if you get a nago/miura/katana theres a good chance the rubber will peel from the toe before its worn out ... and its not a "footwork" isssue

for mass climbing by newbies i would get something with
- laces as its easier to adjust for different people
- a thick rand and sole
- rounded toes as those are less probe to getting holes right at the big toes that you see with more aggressive shoes
- CHEAP

;)


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By BrianWS
Oct 24, 2013

If you're truly short on cash, check area gyms for used rental shoes. The gym I worked for used to sell them off every season for between $15-30 per pair, at varying levels of wear of course. You might even be able to score donations by setting up a used-shoe drive.

As far as new shoes go, everyone here has made great recommendations.

Evolvs are workhorse shoes in general, and they have models specifically designed for rental use (extra thick rubber, similar fit to defys). The Evolv stank can be managed with regular disinfectant treatment (Lysol, Zepynamic, etc), air-drying, and semi-regular washing.

Also, check here for their closeout sales. You can get some pretty decent shoes for 25$ a pair while they last.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 24, 2013
...

"one thing to note about the sportivas is that they have a delamination problem .... if you get a nago/miura/katana theres a good chance the rubber will peel from the toe before its worn out ... and its not a "footwork" issue"

They are #1 in delamination's and have been for many years.


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By jim.dangle
Oct 27, 2013

Thanks for the tips, guys. Seems like there are a bunch of options.

Jim


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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 27, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Locker wrote:
A proven good ALL AROUND (beginner) shoe is Five Ten "Spires". Plus they have the added benefit of already have C4 on them. Why have beginners slipping and sliding away with for shit rubber when you don't have to? ;-)


+1 on the Spires,,are they still an all leather shoe? Mine have stretched out a few extra sizes, so be prepared to wear socks in them after they start to 'grow' on you.


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