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Best hard climbs at the gunks
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By CCliffe
Jan 5, 2014

What are some of the good hard climbs here?? In the 12/13 range. Pictures are cool, if you have any.


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By Avi Katz
Jan 5, 2014

Use the search feature.
Usually the ones with more stars are better.


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By Rick Mix
Jan 5, 2014

Nectar Vectar is a good un.

And if that's too long of an approach then check out Creature Feature.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 5, 2014

I think the best hard routes at the Gunks are at Skytop..


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By S. Neoh
Jan 5, 2014

I am in no way a Gunks expert or regular but here's what I know;
John made a good point about Sky Top (Vandals). More accessible are Slammin The Salmon and To Be or Not To Be (direct finish) at The Nears, both of which I have been on with a TR. About .12a for both and I believe protection is R for both. I have a friend who has led Kansas City (.12a) also at The Nears and he said the realclimbing is over rather quick and the gear (some fixed?) is OK/good. There is also No Solution, .12a R/X (Nosedive/Retribution face) near the Ubefall.
I once asked HughH for his favorite Gunks hard climb. He answered "Sticky Bun Power" which from what I can gather is .12 R.
There are a whole bunch of hard stuff over at Lost City, the most famous two with reputation to be quality climbs are Survival of The Fittest (.13) and Persistence. Persistence is "only .11d" but it felt way harder than that for me on TR.
Have fun and climb safe.


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By BigA
Jan 5, 2014

vimeo.com/m/12057089

This thing is pretty cool and hard...


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By PosiDave
Jan 6, 2014

www.climberism.com/brian-kim-establishes-new-5-13d-in-shawan>>>


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 6, 2014
Stoked...

BigA wrote:
vimeo.com/m/12057089 This thing is pretty cool and hard...


what climb/wall/grade?


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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Jan 6, 2014
onsight soloing Atman

Persistent from the hole at Lost City-11d+++ well protected

To Be Or Not To Be at The Nears-12a X you can deck if you blow either of the first two cruxes

Kligfield's Follies at The Trapps-11d+++ the gear takes work in the lower crux


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By Nick Goldsmith
Jan 6, 2014

Damn! sounds like them boys and gurls need to learn how to drill;)


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Jan 6, 2014

Morgan Patterson wrote:
what climb/wall/grade?


Looks like Twilight Zone (13b). Another 13b by Russ Clune at Peterskill:

www.climberism.com/russ-clunes-la-roof-sees-a-second-ascent/


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By BigA
Jan 6, 2014

It's not twilight. This route is called Ozone and climbs directly up into twilight zones roof, and then links into the roof of French connection.


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By BigA
Jan 6, 2014

A brief list of the best routes 12 and up (that are legal, ie not skytop) would read
Supper's Ready, Tiers of Fear, Bone Hard, Projectile, Kansas City, Sirens, Gravity's Rainbow, Nectar Vector, Intruders, Survival, Clairvoyance, Twilight Zone, Cybernetic Wall, Ozone...


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By john strand
From southern colo
Jan 6, 2014

Don't forget kama Sutra at the Trapps.. and that nasty little 11+..Wasp ? The Sting ? something like that


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By S. Neoh
Jan 6, 2014

Ah, The Sting. Good one. Maybe .12- for short climbers. I tried it on TR. The low crux will be pretty spicy for the vertically challenged. The upper crux can be protected well but it was a BIG throw for me. I thought Bird Brain was a little easier at .11+ but harder to protect and rated R. Road Warrior (.11+ R) is also near BB and Slammin' the Salmon.


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