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 ADVANCED
Peg Leg Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Best For Your Stick S 
catch the wave S 
Chili Dog S 
close to the bone S 
Clutching At Straws S 
Corn Dog S 
Dough Daddy S 
Flamed, The Pumped, The French, The S 
men of iron T 
Miss Money Penny S 
Mr. Peg Leg Speed Workout S 
Promised Land S 
Sex Wax S 
surf's up S 
Unknown Short Warmup S 

Best For Your Stick 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Gonzales, Mark Jero, Eric Harp, 1988
Season: warmer shelf months (shady)
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: slim on May 11, 2014

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Description 

Best For Your Stick climbs a nice, little panel of rock that is very reminiscent of the rock at the Dark Side. The climbing is somewhat technical, on tricky pockets and good edges. This is a really good warm-up.

Location 

From where the trail meets the wall at the route 'Adversary', hike left past the other 3 Adversary Wall routes. Continue for a 100, maybe 150, feet, past several routes until you get to a deep, black corner that is up above the trail on a dirt mound. The right wall of this corner has a very defined crack/flake in black and pink rock. The left wall of the corner is home to 'Best For Your Stick', a nice looking, slabby, black route.

Protection 

4 bolts, plus a 2 bolt anchor up and left of the last bolt.


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By slim
Administrator
May 11, 2014

Note that photo on page 91 in the blue Shelf Road Rock Book has a snafu with the numbers. In the photo, the line shown as #12 is Best For Your Stick. The route on the left side of the arete (shown as #11) is Sex Wax, 11a.