Best For Your Stick
||Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Kevin Gonzales, Mark Jero, Eric Harp, 1988|
|Season: ||warmer shelf months (shady)|
|Page Views: ||69|
|Submitted By: ||slim on May 11, 2014|
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Best For Your Stick climbs a nice, little panel of rock that is very reminiscent of the rock at the Dark Side. The climbing is somewhat technical, on tricky pockets and good edges. This is a really good warm-up.
From where the trail meets the wall at the route 'Adversary', hike left past the other 3 Adversary Wall routes. Continue for a 100, maybe 150, feet, past several routes until you get to a deep, black corner that is up above the trail on a dirt mound. The right wall of this corner has a very defined crack/flake in black and pink rock. The left wall of the corner is home to 'Best For Your Stick', a nice looking, slabby, black route.
4 bolts, plus a 2 bolt anchor up and left of the last bolt.
May 11, 2014
Note that photo on page 91 in the blue Shelf Road Rock Book has a snafu with the numbers. In the photo, the line shown as #12 is Best For Your Stick. The route on the left side of the arete (shown as #11) is Sex Wax, 11a.