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Best flake in CO?
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By Addison
From Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2012
me at eldo

did a little searching in the forums and did not find what I was looking for..

Besides the snowflakes that will hopefully start falling soon, I'm interested in climbing some cool, moderate flake (up to 5.11). Any suggestions? does not have to be only flake climbing but it should have some cool flake moves...

thanks in advance- Addison


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By brat
Oct 9, 2012
Celebrating on Intersection Rock, JTree.

Sport or trad?

Sport... try Toxxxic Entertainment at at Shelf, .10a.

Trad... the first thing that comes to mind for me is the first pitch of Backflip at Lumpy, 5.9.


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By climber pat
From Las Cruces, NM
Oct 9, 2012

Kor's flake.


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By Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Oct 10, 2012
me on my redpoint

first pitch of loose ends in lumpy


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Addison wrote:
I'm interested in climbing some cool, moderate flake (up to 5.11).

Moderate is up to 5.11? OK, well then may I suggest Cary Granite on Mt. Evans?
There is a lot of flake on it too.
While this, at 11c, is at the upper end of your specs, it is also something that just went out of season, which gives you plenty of time to train for it next spring.
After a 150' first pitch of 5.10d (short crux) crack climbing, which actually climbs like a flake for the last 50' of diagonal 5.9:
The crux of P1 of Cary Granite (shared with Good Evans) is thin for hands and feet but is well-protected and solid rock.
The crux of P1 of Cary Granite (shared with Good Evans) is thin for hands and feet but is well-protected and solid rock.

You get to the second pitch, which is pretty much 5.10 open book and flake for 120':
Kat A. starts up following the long P2 (5.11-) of Cary Grantie.  This pitch is deceptively good!
Kat A. starts up following the long P2 (5.11-) of Cary Grantie. This pitch is deceptively good!

And at the top of that open book and flake, you hit the crux roof flake of P2 (11a):
Kat A. starts the battle with the P2 roof on Cary Granite, a harbinger of things to come....
Kat A. starts the battle with the P2 roof on Cary Granite, a harbinger of things to come....

Kat A. transitioning from under-cling to knee-bar under the roof on P2.  An interesting solution....
Kat A. transitioning from under-cling to knee-bar under the roof on P2. An interesting solution....

Then comes the 3rd pitch. You'll want a strong partner with good thin face skills for the 11a/b traverse getting to the P3 flake (there is a reason why nobody has pictures of that - it is safe safe, they are "Watch me!" belaying). But once on the P3 flake it's up and over the roof at 11b/c, and it is well protected and it's a blast:
Clean Dan Grandusky on the crux pitch, on the first ascent of Cary Granite, 1990.  The two cracks to the right are Good Evans and Road Warrior, respectively.
Clean Dan Grandusky on the crux pitch, on the first ascent of Cary Granite, 1990. The two cracks to the right are Good Evans and Road Warrior, respectively.

Eric Johnson pulling the roof on P3.  Splitter, fresh granite.
Eric Johnson pulling the roof on P3. Splitter, fresh granite.

Sorry, P4 is not as interesting. It isn't a flake pitch.
But maybe you'll have had your fill?

Enjoy the quest for the holy grail!


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Oct 10, 2012
Courtesy Denver Police Dept.

Reggae in Eldo, they say it's a dihedral but it's more of a flake..


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By cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Oct 10, 2012
Casual Route Pitch 3  <br />Photo by Mark Cushman

Tony B wrote:
OK, well then may I suggest Cary Granite on Mt. Evans?


2 Things:
1. Tony always gives great suggestions. I think he has climbed more routes and remembers them better then anyone I have come across.
2. That route looks great and is now on my todo list. Thanks Tony.

-Jon


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Oct 10, 2012
Me and Spearhead

Tony, thanks for posting. That looks amazing... something to aspire to for next summer.

2 route suggestions:
Moonlight Drive, Eldo
Cheap Date, Lumpy


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By gunter
Oct 10, 2012

The Bastille crack is pretty flakey, on the lower end of the spectrum and crowded, but you could lay back most of it.


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By Evan S
From Erie, CO
Oct 10, 2012
Me, of course

It's fairly moderate, but White Whale at Lumpy has a pretty spectacular flake on the first pitch.


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