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Best First 5.14 in the Country



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By MIYG
From Moab, UT
May 4, 2012
Photo

T-Rex or Whole Shot in Maple Caynon..

Everything's soft in Maple right?

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
May 4, 2012

Judging by the number and ease of ascents...God's Own Stone at the Red.

Otherwise, maybe buy a ticket to Rodellar.

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By Sam Stephens
May 4, 2012
Top half of Melifluous

I don't climb 5.14, but Proper Soul would be on my radar if I did. I know the New well, and for it to produce a 5.14, the quality of stone has got to be perfect. The Cirque is a gorgeous area and the New is an amazing place. Come in the fall!

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
May 4, 2012

Another NRG vote: Mango Tango. Looks like a sweet arete!

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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
May 16, 2012

"Jumbo Pumping Hate" in Clark Mountain. First part of the climb shares same start for Sharma's Jumbo Love 5.15b

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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
May 16, 2012

"Jumbo Pumping Hate" in Clark Mountain. First part of the climb shares same start for Sharma's Jumbo Love 5.15b

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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
May 16, 2012
This painting was taken from engravings made during the 1859 Macomb Expedition, which attempted to locate the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers in the present-day Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. Anyone who has spent time in Indian Creek will recognize the features here. <br /> <br />If you're interested, the survey's official report, as well as more landscape paintings like this one, are available in full on google books. <br /> <br /><a href='http://books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=macomb+expedition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=DvEeT9KcFvC40gHIuukH&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=macomb%20expedition&f=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&d>>></a>

Kenny Clark wrote:
Another NRG vote: Mango Tango. Looks like a sweet arete!


I've always thought that Mango Tango is the most beautiful line at the NRG. I'm not sure I'd call it a best "first" 5.14, though. While Proper Soul is quickly becoming the 2010s version of Apollo Reed, Mango Tango just sits down on the Meadow, gathering cobwebs and smacking down good climbers. A while back, I recall one rejected suitor angrily writing "5.14c!" in chalk below it.

(this is all just hearsay; I, like most folks here, am not a 5.14 climber)

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
May 16, 2012

camhead wrote:
I've always thought that Mango Tango is the most beautiful line at the NRG. I'm not sure I'd call it a best "first" 5.14, though.


I agree; it looks beautiful! It does look pretty hard and technical. I had just re-watched the video of Joel Brady on Mango Tango and was inspired (though 14 is a LONG ways off for me):


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By Killing In The Name Of
May 24, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

That Joel Brady video is RAD. Makes me want to jump in the shitbox and head to the rainiest, muggiest, most miserably often weather-cockblocked Promised Land a guy could ask for. Looks like Mutiny on crack. Awesome.

Haven't tried any .14s so no helpful beta on climbs, but if you want to find good .14s, I'd contact people that crush .14 like there's no tomorrow and have taste. Joe Kinder has a blog and has climbed a few dozen at least, bet that's a good place to start-Joe's a cool kid and would for sure email you back a good route or 3 to start out with.


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