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Best First 5.14 in the Country
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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
May 4, 2012
Aesthetics
T-Rex or Whole Shot in Maple Caynon..

Everything's soft in Maple right?

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
May 4, 2012
Judging by the number and ease of ascents...God's Own Stone at the Red.

Otherwise, maybe buy a ticket to Rodellar.

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By Sam Stephens
May 4, 2012
Top half of Melifluous
I don't climb 5.14, but Proper Soul would be on my radar if I did. I know the New well, and for it to produce a 5.14, the quality of stone has got to be perfect. The Cirque is a gorgeous area and the New is an amazing place. Come in the fall!

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
May 4, 2012
Another NRG vote: Mango Tango. Looks like a sweet arete!

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By Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
May 16, 2012
after flower of high rank
"Jumbo Pumping Hate" in Clark Mountain. First part of the climb shares same start for Sharma's Jumbo Love 5.15b

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By Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
May 16, 2012
after flower of high rank
"Jumbo Pumping Hate" in Clark Mountain. First part of the climb shares same start for Sharma's Jumbo Love 5.15b

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
May 16, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Kenny Clark wrote:
Another NRG vote: Mango Tango. Looks like a sweet arete!


I've always thought that Mango Tango is the most beautiful line at the NRG. I'm not sure I'd call it a best "first" 5.14, though. While Proper Soul is quickly becoming the 2010s version of Apollo Reed, Mango Tango just sits down on the Meadow, gathering cobwebs and smacking down good climbers. A while back, I recall one rejected suitor angrily writing "5.14c!" in chalk below it.

(this is all just hearsay; I, like most folks here, am not a 5.14 climber)

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
May 16, 2012
camhead wrote:
I've always thought that Mango Tango is the most beautiful line at the NRG. I'm not sure I'd call it a best "first" 5.14, though.


I agree; it looks beautiful! It does look pretty hard and technical. I had just re-watched the video of Joel Brady on Mango Tango and was inspired (though 14 is a LONG ways off for me):

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By Stone Nude
May 24, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
That Joel Brady video is RAD. Makes me want to jump in the shitbox and head to the rainiest, muggiest, most miserably often weather-cockblocked Promised Land a guy could ask for. Looks like Mutiny on crack. Awesome.

Haven't tried any .14s so no helpful beta on climbs, but if you want to find good .14s, I'd contact people that crush .14 like there's no tomorrow and have taste. Joe Kinder has a blog and has climbed a few dozen at least, bet that's a good place to start-Joe's a cool kid and would for sure email you back a good route or 3 to start out with.

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