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Best First 5.14 in the Country
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By Chris Briley
Sep 15, 2009

Obviously it largely depends on one's strengths and weaknesses but what are peoples' opinions as to the best first 5.14 in the U.S. for someone truly aspiring at the grade? Something legit, all-natural (except for the bolts), sweet to climb, but a good first. Bonus points for front range Colorado routes but I'm seriously interested nationwide. More bonus points for sweet redpoint stories. Still more bonus points for crux beta! But I say nothing wrong with chiming in even if you haven't climbed the route.

And for all you anti grade chasers please keep those criticisms elsewhere. Nothing wrong with measuring self worth with a number anyway right? Just kidding, I already know 5.14 isn't even a blip today.


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By Chris Briley
Sep 18, 2009

Anyone?


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By Dusty
From Fort Collins
Sep 18, 2009
just teasin' the sharks...

Is this what you're looking for?:

www.mountainproject.com/v/idaho/city_of_rocks/bath_rock/1057>>>

They call it a "sport" route, but sport climbers beware, it gets an "R" for a reason!


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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From the Shire
Sep 18, 2009
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks

why not go to Smith Rock and make your first .14 the first in the U.S...? (To Bolt or Not to be)


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By JdAvalanche
From slc, utah
Sep 18, 2009

I would want to know what are some of the easiest 5.14a's. Maybe there is a 5.13 that is rated 5.14. How perfect would that be? I remember when I was first getting into climbing the Gift at Red Rocks was pretty easy 12d. After I redpointed that I told everyone I was a 12+ climber. I guess now it actually is 12+.


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By Pat McGinn
Sep 19, 2009
Me on the belay of last unicorn pitch two.

I'd go to rifle and try some of the routes there (if I could climb 5.14) I have heard that some of the 13d's are really like 14's here is a list climbing magazine calls rifles hardest 13d's (14's)

The Bride of Frankenstein
Huge
Slice of Life
Cracked-Open Sky
Gropius
Simply Read
Living in Fear


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By ZachBradford
Sep 21, 2009
Sentinel boulder Moe's valley

Hobble Creek Canyon, Drone Wall Prestidigitator 5.14a Its short but looks like hard steep arete slapping. but its short for a sport route so if you are willing to stick around and project the moves you should be able to piece it together in a shorter than average amount of time. FA - Isaac Caldiero. David Graham made the 2nd accent and 3rd was Joe Kinder in 2003. To my knowledge it hasn't seen an ascent since then.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Dudes, Chris asked about 5.14, not about some sandbagged 5.13s at Rifle or Clear Creek.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 21, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

Jay Knower wrote:
Dudes, Chris asked about 5.14, not about some sandbagged 5.13s at Rifle or Clear Creek.

hahahahahahahahhah!

stand by..
;)


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Sep 21, 2009

Jay Knower wrote:
Dudes, Chris asked about 5.14, not about some sandbagged 5.13s at Rifle or Clear Creek.


So he should come east and get on Dr. No before the new guide downgrades it? :)


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Sep 21, 2009
Belay

Adam Winters wrote:
why not go to Smith Rock and make your first .14 the first in the U.S...? (To Bolt or Not to be)

Heh, my response was going to be "Absolutely not To Bolt or Not To Be."

I'm not exactly a .14 climber, but I'd suggest something more along the lines of Rifle than Smith. I'm sure Monomaniac will be here shortly with some suggestions. :)


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Sep 21, 2009
Lone goat..

If you're any kind of thug, Desdichado in Eldo. fits the bill. Now that the "big rest" flake is gone, it's perfect! Maybe?


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By Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Sep 21, 2009

Chris:

Wouldn't even dare to guess the skill of becomming that talented of a climber. But I do guess that you would probably be better off on an enduro 5.14 that anything technical at first. After reading mags all of these years, it seems that's the way of progression into how higher grades get done at first.

I don't know if I ever agreed with him one this one anyway, but Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself a 5.XX climber, he must have done over 800 of that rating climbs, including many different types of climbs. With that standard, not too many folks would be true 5.14 climbers. Not only that he most likely ment on-site probably.


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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Sep 21, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch

Jim Gloeckler wrote:
Chris: Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself a 5.XX climber, he must have done over 800 of that rating climbs,



I guess maybe then I'm a 5.-3rd Class climber.... Maybe


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By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Sep 21, 2009
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan

I think I'm still a first classer. damn.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Sep 22, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Jim Gloeckler wrote:
Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself a 5.XX climber, he must have done over 800 of that rating climbs


Why not just make it 1000? Or 2000? If it's 2000, it might as well be 5000, right? If it's 5000, then maybe none of us are really climbers anyway.

Why is it that climbers feel such a need to impose such arbitrary rules on themselves? Pat Ament's view notwithstanding, I climb whatever grade looks like the most fun.


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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Sep 22, 2009
Lone goat..

IMO, 10a, 11a 12a 13a and then 14a is the most fun of all the freaky grades. The split grades are just not as satisfying as the benchmark grades.


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Sep 22, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

Jay Knower wrote:
I climb whatever grade looks like the most fun.

That used to mean high school seniors or college freshmen. Now they all look like children until 20-something, or older...


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Sep 22, 2009
Pulling a small roof at 2/3 height on Mission Impossible.  Adam Sanders photo.

Peter Franzen wrote:
I'm sure Monomaniac will be here shortly with some suggestions. :)


I sure have enjoyed reading this highly entertaining thread, but I probably shouldn't make any comments other than to say keep up the great work MP.com!


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Sep 22, 2009
getting to the last jug before the top out

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
That used to mean high school seniors or college freshmen. Now they all look like children until 20-something, or older...


hahahaha


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2009
Half Dome

The Gayness sounds good in Rifle. Check it out.

5.14a not even a blip? not for me it wouldn't.


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By Chris Briley
Sep 22, 2009

Hilarious. I now have a list of sandbagged 13ds to avoid and a route called the gayness to aspire to. I don't think to bolt or not to be is a good one . . . that thing looks very long and involved and like a great way to blow six tendons and never climb again. I am most excited to learn of Ament's requirement and plan on wholeheartedly adopting it. . . it allows me to say I've never climbed 5.9, I've never farted out loud in public, i've never failed an exam, and i've never daydreamed about naked trolls wrestling in distant meadows.

And by posting this thread, i hope i didn't fool anyone into thinking I was actually going to climb anything at the grade. Just daydreaming


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By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Sep 22, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wall.

Jim Gloeckler wrote:
Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself ...X...he must have done over 800 of that

Chris Briley wrote:
Hilarious. ... I am most excited to learn of Ament's requirement and plan on wholeheartedly adopting it. . . it allows me to say I've...never farted out loud in public

How old are you? Surely you're not that far off...did you go to middle school?


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By christopher adams
Mar 10, 2010

Chris Briley wrote:
Obviously it largely depends on one's strengths and weaknesses but what are peoples' opinions as to the best first 5.14 in the U.S. for someone truly aspiring at the grade? Something legit, all-natural (except for the bolts), sweet to climb, but a good first. Bonus points for front range Colorado routes but I'm seriously interested nationwide. More bonus points for sweet redpoint stories. Still more bonus points for crux beta! But I say nothing wrong with chiming in even if you haven't climbed the route. And for all you anti grade chasers please keep those criticisms elsewhere. Nothing wrong with measuring self worth with a number anyway right? Just kidding, I already know 5.14 isn't even a blip today.


China Beach at Rumney is f-ing awesome.


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By Blake Cash
Mar 25, 2010

Ok. Fuck it. Lots of chatter and no answers to the question. You'll be hard pressed to find something on the front range to be honest.

Roadside Prophet - Rifle, I hear is amazing and involved, also long.

Horse Latitudes - VRG, also looks STELLAR! But I hear something broke on it...so not sure what the grade is currently.

Incredible Huck - Cathedral, gets the a/b grade...but also amazing route.

Omaha beach - RRG. Endurofest. Go get it.

If you want something on the FRange:

Honemaster Lambada - crimping forever...
Terminal Velocity - Looks really cool. Good 13a to a hard, hard move, kneebar crux.


Am I missing anything?


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By Ryan J
From chattanooga tn
May 4, 2012

Proper Soul at the New River Gorge?

lots of cruxes and angle changes, climbs perfect sandstone for a hundred feet and it is not chipped to shit. follows an eye-catching line and when you send, you can top the cliff out, untie, and walk down.


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