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Best First 5.14 in the Country
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Sep 15, 2009
Obviously it largely depends on one's strengths and weaknesses but what are peoples' opinions as to the best first 5.14 in the U.S. for someone truly aspiring at the grade? Something legit, all-natural (except for the bolts), sweet to climb, but a good first. Bonus points for front range Colorado routes but I'm seriously interested nationwide. More bonus points for sweet redpoint stories. Still more bonus points for crux beta! But I say nothing wrong with chiming in even if you haven't climbed the route.

And for all you anti grade chasers please keep those criticisms elsewhere. Nothing wrong with measuring self worth with a number anyway right? Just kidding, I already know 5.14 isn't even a blip today.
Chris Briley
Joined Jun 18, 2006
5 points
Sep 18, 2009
Anyone? Chris Briley
Joined Jun 18, 2006
5 points
Sep 18, 2009
just teasin' the sharks...
Is this what you're looking for?:

mountainproject.com/v/idaho/ci...

They call it a "sport" route, but sport climbers beware, it gets an "R" for a reason!
Dusty
From Fort Collins
Joined Apr 28, 2008
260 points
Administrator
Sep 18, 2009
Red-tail Hawk, Buttermilks
why not go to Smith Rock and make your first .14 the first in the U.S...? (To Bolt or Not to be) AWinters
From NH
Joined Apr 6, 2007
5,441 points
Sep 18, 2009
I would want to know what are some of the easiest 5.14a's. Maybe there is a 5.13 that is rated 5.14. How perfect would that be? I remember when I was first getting into climbing the Gift at Red Rocks was pretty easy 12d. After I redpointed that I told everyone I was a 12+ climber. I guess now it actually is 12+. JdAvalanche
From slc, utah
Joined Aug 9, 2009
6 points
Sep 19, 2009
Me on the belay of last unicorn pitch two.
I'd go to rifle and try some of the routes there (if I could climb 5.14) I have heard that some of the 13d's are really like 14's here is a list climbing magazine calls rifles hardest 13d's (14's)

The Bride of Frankenstein
Huge
Slice of Life
Cracked-Open Sky
Gropius
Simply Read
Living in Fear
Pat McGinn
Joined Aug 28, 2009
284 points
Sep 21, 2009
Sentinel boulder Moe's valley
Hobble Creek Canyon, Drone Wall Prestidigitator 5.14a Its short but looks like hard steep arete slapping. but its short for a sport route so if you are willing to stick around and project the moves you should be able to piece it together in a shorter than average amount of time. FA - Isaac Caldiero. David Graham made the 2nd accent and 3rd was Joe Kinder in 2003. To my knowledge it hasn't seen an ascent since then. ZachBradford
Joined Sep 29, 2008
1,310 points
Administrator
Sep 21, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Dudes, Chris asked about 5.14, not about some sandbagged 5.13s at Rifle or Clear Creek. Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
Sep 21, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Jay Knower wrote:
Dudes, Chris asked about 5.14, not about some sandbagged 5.13s at Rifle or Clear Creek.

hahahahahahahahhah!

stand by..
;)
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,757 points
Sep 21, 2009
Jay Knower wrote:
Dudes, Chris asked about 5.14, not about some sandbagged 5.13s at Rifle or Clear Creek.


So he should come east and get on Dr. No before the new guide downgrades it? :)
Jake D.
From Northeast
Joined Nov 23, 2006
477 points
Administrator
Sep 21, 2009
Belay
Adam Winters wrote:
why not go to Smith Rock and make your first .14 the first in the U.S...? (To Bolt or Not to be)

Heh, my response was going to be "Absolutely not To Bolt or Not To Be."

I'm not exactly a .14 climber, but I'd suggest something more along the lines of Rifle than Smith. I'm sure Monomaniac will be here shortly with some suggestions. :)
Peter Franzen
From Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
4,021 points
Administrator
Sep 21, 2009
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
If you're any kind of thug, Desdichado in Eldo. fits the bill. Now that the "big rest" flake is gone, it's perfect! Maybe? Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
594 points
Sep 21, 2009
Chris:

Wouldn't even dare to guess the skill of becomming that talented of a climber. But I do guess that you would probably be better off on an enduro 5.14 that anything technical at first. After reading mags all of these years, it seems that's the way of progression into how higher grades get done at first.

I don't know if I ever agreed with him one this one anyway, but Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself a 5.XX climber, he must have done over 800 of that rating climbs, including many different types of climbs. With that standard, not too many folks would be true 5.14 climbers. Not only that he most likely ment on-site probably.
Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Joined Jul 7, 2004
47 points
Sep 21, 2009
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
Jim Gloeckler wrote:
Chris: Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself a 5.XX climber, he must have done over 800 of that rating climbs,



I guess maybe then I'm a 5.-3rd Class climber.... Maybe
John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 23, 2008
212 points
Sep 21, 2009
Crux Move
I think I'm still a first classer. damn. Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,173 points
Administrator
Sep 22, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Jim Gloeckler wrote:
Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself a 5.XX climber, he must have done over 800 of that rating climbs


Why not just make it 1000? Or 2000? If it's 2000, it might as well be 5000, right? If it's 5000, then maybe none of us are really climbers anyway.

Why is it that climbers feel such a need to impose such arbitrary rules on themselves? Pat Ament's view notwithstanding, I climb whatever grade looks like the most fun.
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
Administrator
Sep 22, 2009
Llama Races- Fairplay, Colorado
IMO, 10a, 11a 12a 13a and then 14a is the most fun of all the freaky grades. The split grades are just not as satisfying as the benchmark grades. Hank Caylor
From Golden, CO
Joined Dec 9, 2003
594 points
Sep 22, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Jay Knower wrote:
I climb whatever grade looks like the most fun.

That used to mean high school seniors or college freshmen. Now they all look like children until 20-something, or older...
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Administrator
Sep 22, 2009
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Peter Franzen wrote:
I'm sure Monomaniac will be here shortly with some suggestions. :)


I sure have enjoyed reading this highly entertaining thread, but I probably shouldn't make any comments other than to say keep up the great work MP.com!
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,263 points
Administrator
Sep 22, 2009
me and the sentinel....
Shawn Mitchell wrote:
That used to mean high school seniors or college freshmen. Now they all look like children until 20-something, or older...


hahahaha
lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Joined Jan 10, 2007
18,978 points
Sep 22, 2009
Half Dome
The Gayness sounds good in Rifle. Check it out.

5.14a not even a blip? not for me it wouldn't.
Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 23, 2006
352 points
Sep 22, 2009
Hilarious. I now have a list of sandbagged 13ds to avoid and a route called the gayness to aspire to. I don't think to bolt or not to be is a good one . . . that thing looks very long and involved and like a great way to blow six tendons and never climb again. I am most excited to learn of Ament's requirement and plan on wholeheartedly adopting it. . . it allows me to say I've never climbed 5.9, I've never farted out loud in public, i've never failed an exam, and i've never daydreamed about naked trolls wrestling in distant meadows.

And by posting this thread, i hope i didn't fool anyone into thinking I was actually going to climb anything at the grade. Just daydreaming
Chris Briley
Joined Jun 18, 2006
5 points
Sep 22, 2009
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Jim Gloeckler wrote:
Pat Amment said that in order to truly call himself ...X...he must have done over 800 of that

Chris Briley wrote:
Hilarious. ... I am most excited to learn of Ament's requirement and plan on wholeheartedly adopting it. . . it allows me to say I've...never farted out loud in public

How old are you? Surely you're not that far off...did you go to middle school?
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Mar 10, 2010
Chris Briley wrote:
Obviously it largely depends on one's strengths and weaknesses but what are peoples' opinions as to the best first 5.14 in the U.S. for someone truly aspiring at the grade? Something legit, all-natural (except for the bolts), sweet to climb, but a good first. Bonus points for front range Colorado routes but I'm seriously interested nationwide. More bonus points for sweet redpoint stories. Still more bonus points for crux beta! But I say nothing wrong with chiming in even if you haven't climbed the route. And for all you anti grade chasers please keep those criticisms elsewhere. Nothing wrong with measuring self worth with a number anyway right? Just kidding, I already know 5.14 isn't even a blip today.


China Beach at Rumney is f-ing awesome.
christopher adams
Joined Apr 5, 2006
21 points
Mar 25, 2010
Ok. Fuck it. Lots of chatter and no answers to the question. You'll be hard pressed to find something on the front range to be honest.

Roadside Prophet - Rifle, I hear is amazing and involved, also long.

Horse Latitudes - VRG, also looks STELLAR! But I hear something broke on it...so not sure what the grade is currently.

Incredible Huck - Cathedral, gets the a/b grade...but also amazing route.

Omaha beach - RRG. Endurofest. Go get it.

If you want something on the FRange:

Honemaster Lambada - crimping forever...
Terminal Velocity - Looks really cool. Good 13a to a hard, hard move, kneebar crux.


Am I missing anything?
Blake Cash
Joined May 27, 2007
195 points
May 4, 2012
Proper Soul at the New River Gorge?

lots of cruxes and angle changes, climbs perfect sandstone for a hundred feet and it is not chipped to shit. follows an eye-catching line and when you send, you can top the cliff out, untie, and walk down.
Ryan J
From chattanooga tn
Joined May 15, 2007
46 points


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