By Tyler N
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 21, 2012
| Aiming for late next summer/early fall to climb my first 5.12.
Best first 5.12 project in Utah? | 
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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 21, 2012
| liquid oxygen is good, short, and has big holds. |
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By Halley13
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 21, 2012
| Gemini is indeed a 'gem' though not technically IN Utah. I disagree with Liquid O being the best .12a. It's okay, but certainly not anything to write home about... My votes go to 49 in Maple, Pig Pen or Pocket Debris in AF and Namaste in Kolob Canyon. Namaste isn't necessarily a 'project' type route b/c it's a bit of a haul to get down and out there but just go send it cuz it's aesthetically AMAZING, super fun and LONG, and not cruxy at all. Do Huecos Rancheros too! It's even better!!! :) |
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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
Oct 21, 2012
| Sessions, in the Uintas. |
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By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2012
| The Lion - Wind Tower, Eldorado Canyon. |
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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 21, 2012
| Josh Janes wrote: The Lion - Wind Tower, Eldorado Canyon.
Is that the NORTHERN part of Idaho and is the gear GOOD? |
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By Ty Gregory
From Salt Lake City
Oct 21, 2012
| Fuego in Ferguson. Unknown Pleasures in American Fork. Right Trinity(Trad), All Chalk and no Action, Cool Your Jets, in LLC. Enemy Within, and Eye in the Sky at the Psychobabble Wall, Depth of Field or any other 12 at the Choss Garden, all in BCC. Any of the 12s in Hyrum. Piston Bully at Chadbourne. Hard Pan Heroics and Cleveland Steam Roller at Ibex.
No doubt there are oodles of worthy 12s to be tried as firsts at the limestone crags around St George and the West Desert, you will have to find them. |
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By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2012
| Andy Hansen wrote: Is that the NORTHERN part of Idaho and is the gear GOOD?
Yes. And it's super soft for the grade - probably only 11c/d. |
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By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2012
| Hi Andy.
Actually, Namaste was my very first 5.12. I like to say that my very first 5.12 I climbed onsight in Zion. I leave out the part about it being a sport climb and that the hardest move is likely 10d. =) |
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By Tyler N
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 21, 2012
| My partners are suggesting Namaste and Sessions, depending on whether my endurance or strength is better at that point, lol. Thanks for the suggestions! |
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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 22, 2012
| The lion is 12 x not a good first 12 |
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By T_jones
From Salty Lake
Oct 22, 2012
| Check out Naked Nebula .12a at the White Wave wall in AF. It's got huge holds the whole way and is super fun. |
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By tenesmus
Oct 22, 2012
| Ty Gregory wrote: Fuego in Ferguson. Unknown Pleasures in American Fork. Right Trinity(Trad),
Ty Gregory wrote: All Chalk and no Action, Cool Your Jets, in LLC.
Definitely for both. Once you figure out how to stand on those teeny feet and get to the seconde bolt its easier than it feels at first
Ty Gregory wrote: Enemy Within, and Eye in the Sky at the Psychobabble Wall,
Ty Gregory wrote: Depth of Field or any other 12 at the Choss Garden, all in BCC.
Ty Gregory wrote: Hard Pan Heroics and Cleveland Steam Roller at Ibex.
Ty Gregory wrote: No doubt there are oodles of worthy 12s to be tried as firsts at the limestone crags around St George and the West Desert, you will have to find them.
Also, what TJones says about Naked Nebula. Its super fun. Seems like most of these amount to knowing your sequences/which holds are jugs vs not and then firing it. |
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By zenetopia
Oct 22, 2012
| Condor, Ferguson
The Blight, American Fork |
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By Allen Sanderson
Oct 23, 2012
| In more ways than one, the best 5.12 in LCC is no doubt "All Chalk, No Action" |
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