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Best first 5.12?
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By Tyler W
From Utah
Oct 21, 2012
Scooby Snacks

Aiming for late next summer/early fall to climb my first 5.12.
Best first 5.12 project in Utah?


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By Josh Kornish
Oct 21, 2012
The Roach

Gemini up in the City.


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Oct 21, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life

mountainproject.com/v/meadow-muffin/105739967

mountainproject.com/v/49/106001020


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Oct 21, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

liquid oxygen is good, short, and has big holds.


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By Halley13
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 21, 2012
Crown Prince Abdullah .12d

Gemini is indeed a 'gem' though not technically IN Utah. I disagree with Liquid O being the best .12a. It's okay, but certainly not anything to write home about... My votes go to 49 in Maple, Pig Pen or Pocket Debris in AF and Namaste in Kolob Canyon. Namaste isn't necessarily a 'project' type route b/c it's a bit of a haul to get down and out there but just go send it cuz it's aesthetically AMAZING, super fun and LONG, and not cruxy at all. Do Huecos Rancheros too! It's even better!!! :)


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!

Sessions, in the Uintas.


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By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2012

The Lion - Wind Tower, Eldorado Canyon.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Oct 21, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Josh Janes wrote:
The Lion - Wind Tower, Eldorado Canyon.


Is that the NORTHERN part of Idaho and is the gear GOOD?


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By Ty Gregory
From Salt Lake City
Oct 21, 2012

Fuego in Ferguson. Unknown Pleasures in American Fork. Right Trinity(Trad), All Chalk and no Action, Cool Your Jets, in LLC. Enemy Within, and Eye in the Sky at the Psychobabble Wall, Depth of Field or any other 12 at the Choss Garden, all in BCC. Any of the 12s in Hyrum. Piston Bully at Chadbourne. Hard Pan Heroics and Cleveland Steam Roller at Ibex.
No doubt there are oodles of worthy 12s to be tried as firsts at the limestone crags around St George and the West Desert, you will have to find them.


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By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2012

Andy Hansen wrote:
Is that the NORTHERN part of Idaho and is the gear GOOD?


Yes. And it's super soft for the grade - probably only 11c/d.


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By Josh Janes
Oct 21, 2012

Hi Andy.

Actually, Namaste was my very first 5.12. I like to say that my very first 5.12 I climbed onsight in Zion. I leave out the part about it being a sport climb and that the hardest move is likely 10d. =)


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By Tyler W
From Utah
Oct 21, 2012
Scooby Snacks

My partners are suggesting Namaste and Sessions, depending on whether my endurance or strength is better at that point, lol. Thanks for the suggestions!


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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 22, 2012

The lion is 12 x not a good first 12


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By T_jones
From Salty Lake
Oct 22, 2012
Fossil Family 12a, Rifle

Check out Naked Nebula .12a at the White Wave wall in AF. It's got huge holds the whole way and is super fun.


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By tenesmus
Oct 22, 2012

Ty Gregory wrote:
Fuego in Ferguson. Unknown Pleasures in American Fork. Right Trinity(Trad),
Here here! T.Right is a hell of a lot easier than Mother of Pearl and quick to figure out.

Ty Gregory wrote:
All Chalk and no Action, Cool Your Jets, in LLC.

Definitely for both. Once you figure out how to stand on those teeny feet and get to the seconde bolt its easier than it feels at first

Ty Gregory wrote:
Enemy Within, and Eye in the Sky at the Psychobabble Wall,
These are super great but feel wild. Eye in the Sky has specific beta that make it far higher percentage - you can easily TR it and work it out. The gear section in the middle is 5.10 and pretty easy, then you get bolts.

Ty Gregory wrote:
Depth of Field or any other 12 at the Choss Garden, all in BCC.
I wish I'd know about this crag when I was first breaking into .12a. Pitbulls on Crack is pretty rad too. As with most of BCC, you just need to take the time to figure out which of the gazillion holds work best for you.

Ty Gregory wrote:
Hard Pan Heroics and Cleveland Steam Roller at Ibex.
The first pitch of Hard Pan Heroics is pretty damned great. As is the last but its a bit harder.

Ty Gregory wrote:
No doubt there are oodles of worthy 12s to be tried as firsts at the limestone crags around St George and the West Desert, you will have to find them.


Also, what TJones says about Naked Nebula. Its super fun. Seems like most of these amount to knowing your sequences/which holds are jugs vs not and then firing it.


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By zenetopia
Oct 22, 2012

Condor, Ferguson
The Blight, American Fork


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By earl mcalister
From idaho
Oct 22, 2012
me

T-bones Tonight at Indian Creek.


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Oct 23, 2012

In more ways than one, the best 5.12 in LCC is no doubt "All Chalk, No Action"


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